Can I Remove Cabinets in Bedroom?

[C5c5]

Originally Posted by Solo_RV_Guy

All posts by Guppy:


http://www.irv2.com/forums/search.php?searchid=26460137

TY!

[Bob_C]

If I were resealing windows, I'd use butyl rubber and trim off the squeeze out...

[Dav L]

While sealing, did you see places in the old sealant that were actually leaking? Ie: did you find the source for the leak and fixed it?

You very likely don't need to replace the window, if you remove it without breaking it. It takes effort to break it.

Once you open up the immediate wall, and pull the insulation out, that should give you good indication on how much more you need to pull apart. Yes, let it dry until it's dry before putting it back together. Yes, a dehumidifier will help. Open windows on dry days to move the humid air out is best.

Plan on pulling the carpet and it's padding and replacing that. It's a great way to get it cleaned up for your own use too. If the plywood is falling apart, then the project just got bigger. If it's just stained, then treat it with mold killer and let dry. Then, paint with some Zinzzer primer to lock any mold from spreading / raising.

Then, put new padding and carpet in. Keep the old carpet as a pattern for the new. Try to remove the carpet in the original pieces (ie: don't cut it). http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/moun...-394089-3.html post 37 has pictures of laying out carpet.

[C5c5]

Originally Posted by Dav L

While sealing, did you see places in the old sealant that were actually leaking? Ie: did you find the source for the leak and fixed it?



You very likely don't need to replace the window, if you remove it without breaking it. It takes effort to break it.



Once you open up the immediate wall, and pull the insulation out, that should give you good indication on how much more you need to pull apart. Yes, let it dry until it's dry before putting it back together. Yes, a dehumidifier will help. Open windows on dry days to move the humid air out is best.



Plan on pulling the carpet and it's padding and replacing that. It's a great way to get it cleaned up for your own use too. If the plywood is falling apart, then the project just got bigger. If it's just stained, then treat it with mold killer and let dry. Then, paint with some Zinzzer primer to lock any mold from spreading / raising.



Then, put new padding and carpet in. Keep the old carpet as a pattern for the new. Try to remove the carpet in the original pieces (ie: don't cut it). http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/moun...-394089-3.html post 37 has pictures of laying out carpet.

Thanks for the tips!

I won't be replacing the carpet. I'll be putting in new flooring instead. I have 3 cats and carpeting is too hard to keep clean with them plus it holds the dander for allergies which I don't need.

Im pretty certain I took care of the roof leaks. It has been raining again today and it looks like the leaking is coming from under the window and not above under the roof. Time for new window seal?

[GCSuper]

Originally Posted by C5c5

Thanks for the tips!

I won't be replacing the carpet. I'll be putting in new flooring instead. I have 3 cats and carpeting is too hard to keep clean with them plus it holds the dander for allergies which I don't need.

Im pretty certain I took care of the roof leaks. It has been raining again today and it looks like the leaking is coming from under the window and not above under the roof. Time for new window seal?

Attachment 264329Attachment 264330Attachment 264331Attachment 264332

If you want to dry it out, use fans. As many as possible. That's what the remediation firms due after flooding.

[Dav L]

That sure does look like a window leak. I would next pull out the window, and let it all dry out.

Before pulling it out, take a garden hose and soak the exterior of the window starting from the bottom. When you see signs of leakage, that's the height of the leak. More than likely at the top of the window, but at least you will then know.

When you put the window back in, you seal it well all the way around it's perimeter.

If the window is leaking, the good news is maybe you never had a roof leak. Which means everything above the window is still solid and you have less than half the repair to deal with.

[C5c5]

Originally Posted by Dav L

That sure does look like a window leak. I would next pull out the window, and let it all dry out.

Before pulling it out, take a garden hose and soak the exterior of the window starting from the bottom. When you see signs of leakage, that's the height of the leak. More than likely at the top of the window, but at least you will then know.

When you put the window back in, you seal it well all the way around it's perimeter.

If the window is leaking, the good news is maybe you never had a roof leak. Which means everything above the window is still solid and you have less than half the repair to deal with.

Great idea about using the hose. Ill have to wait until Friday. Rain every day until then.

I did try to take the window out a few days ago. I removed all the screws around the perimeter. Didn't see anymore and gently pulled from various angles. It didn't budge. Are these windows generally wedged in pretty good?

[Dav L]

The window should be silicone glued in or have butyl tape sealant. You will likely have to pry it out carefully so as not to damage the paint / gelcoat / laminations of the exterior sidewall. The interior is already shot so that isn't to worry about.

Was the perimeter a second piece? a flange? did that remove?
Note that the garden hose trick should be done BEFORE taking any screws out. You kinda lost your baseline already to condem the window as being the leak source...
Once you get the window out, then look for where the water damage starts. Anything above that is dry so the leak was at that transition level.

[SlaterDoc]

Once you remove the interior frame and gasket from the window you will need to carefully pry the exterior frame from the opening. It will help to use a very sharp knife (like a snap-off blade) to cut through the adhering material (be it butyl tape or silicone). From your pictures, it looks like you will find a gap or two along the top since it appears to be tracking down the side of the window to the bottom corner. Re-installing the window with the proper sealant (butly tape preferred) will be key in sealing it up.
As another test, you can take some "Gorilla tape" and during a break in the rain run some around the top and sides (outside) and see if the leaking stops.

[C5c5]

Originally Posted by SlaterDoc

Once you remove the interior frame and gasket from the window you will need to carefully pry the exterior frame from the opening. It will help to use a very sharp knife (like a snap-off blade) to cut through the adhering material (be it butyl tape or silicone). From your pictures, it looks like you will find a gap or two along the top since it appears to be tracking down the side of the window to the bottom corner. Re-installing the window with the proper sealant (butly tape preferred) will be key in sealing it up.
As another test, you can take some "Gorilla tape" and during a break in the rain run some around the top and sides (outside) and see if the leaking stops.

TY for your comments.

Ive run into some problems yesterday trying to get the window out.

I removed the sealant on the outside lining the top. I've removed all the insulation around the window and loosened it the best I can.

I can only push out the bottom 1/3 of the window. The rest of the window will not budge. We only tried so hard because it got to the point where it seemed that the outside fiberglass was going to break. (Am I wrong but does it appear that the fiberglass is damaged from the water?)

I'm missing something! Lol. I'll provide lots of pictures.

Is it normal to have only the bottom half of the window protected with the tape as shown in the photos?

The leak's resuls are clear-the water is gathering directly underneath the window, being soaked in by the insulation.

I have the entire area being dried out now with fans and a dehumidifyer.

Everyday I work a little more to remove more paneling & insulation. I do expect to find more as I make my way further into the bedroom.
Attachment 264607Attachment 264608Attachment 264609Attachment 264610Attachment 264611Attachment 264612Attachment 264613

[Dav L]

Sometimes there is a groove around the window frame where the fiberglass has to be in that groove for the other side of the window to be removed. ie: the fiberglass hole is smaller than the frame. Similar to how a tire is mounted / unmounted to it's wheel.

Put a few layer of masking tape around the frame on the fiberglass to protect the fib erglass from scratches. Did you use a razor blade / knife to cut the sealant all around the underside of the window flange on that secures it to the fiberglass? There are special long blades used for window cleaning knives that are will bend a bit to get deep under the flange to get to all the sealant. Available at HomeDepot et al. they are about four inches long x 3/4" wide.

[C5c5]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Sometimes there is a groove around the window frame where the fiberglass has to be in that groove for the other side of the window to be removed. ie: the fiberglass hole is smaller than the frame. Similar to how a tire is mounted / unmounted to it's wheel.

Put a few layer of masking tape around the frame on the fiberglass to protect the fib erglass from scratches. Did you use a razor blade / knife to cut the sealant all around the underside of the window flange on that secures it to the fiberglass? There are special long blades used for window cleaning knives that are will bend a bit to get deep under the flange to get to all the sealant. Available at HomeDepot et al. they are about four inches long x 3/4" wide.

TY! I didn't think of that. Now it makes sense. It was appearing that nothing was holding the window in place to the RV except cheap insulation and sealant.

If this is the case, are there good recommendations beyond what has already been suggested to make certain this window will stay nice and sealed?

Im working on it again today. Ill post updates.

[Dav L]

Use buytl tape under the flange to fiberglass. After window is screwed together, use some silicone and put a small bead around the outside. Use your finger initially dipped in water to put a small bevel in the joint, pushing the silicone slightly more into the gap. Clean any excess on a paper towel. Let dry before getting moisture / rain on it (overnight). No leaks then.

[BigSkyGuy37]

"Im debt free now and needed a hobby while I prepare to hit the road full time in an RV for work next fall. I have found it! Lol....I just need to learn how to do things."

That's a great attitude! 👍