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Old 06-29-2022, 06:29 PM   #15
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The "fact" is: it will work just fine! With 4 wires you will have 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. This will give you 30 amps on each leg for a total of 60 amps--twice that of an RV 30-amp, single-pole circuit, but less that an RV 50-amp circuit that provides 100 amps total. The existing 30-amp double-pole breaker will protect the wire and circuit to a total of 60 amps [or 30 amps on either leg]. Probably not to code though as someone who doesnt "recognize" 10 vs 6 wire gauge could try to install larger breakers and use it for 50-amp service. This is a great forum for learning about RVs but not very good for learning about electricity--when in doubt, consult a professional!
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Old 06-29-2022, 07:00 PM   #16
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A option that will meet " code " is to install a NEMA L14-30R outlet and pickup a generator adaptor to 50 amps, like this.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-29-2022, 08:22 PM   #17
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Thank you

Wow thank you all for your responses. everything you guys said was confirmed by the electrician. we are leaving the 30-amp breaker, wiring to the 50-amp outlet with the four wires. he only needs it to run the fridge and keep it charged up. thanks again!!!
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:58 AM   #18
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He could use the coach the same as most normally owners would. Twice as nice as 30 RV outlet. Running MH with and using three ACs would put put one leg close to tripping 30 amp feed breaker. Just charging and and fridge could be done on most 20 amp outlets.
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Old 06-30-2022, 05:12 AM   #19
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One way to do what you want and stay within code and not create confusion down the road would be to leave the 30A 240/120V 4 wire receptacle and just use a dog bone adapter to use your 50A 240/120V cord.
https://www.amazon.com/ONETAK-Weldin...a-773008836197
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Old 06-30-2022, 09:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
One way to do what you want and stay within code and not create confusion down the road would be to leave the 30A 240/120V 4 wire receptacle and just use a dog bone adapter to use your 50A 240/120V cord.
https://www.amazon.com/ONETAK-Weldin...a-773008836197
30 amp dryer outlet is not compatible with rv 30 amps. I think you have a good chance of smoking something. The big diffrence is the dryer has two hot 120v legs that read 240 across them. The rv 30 amp has one hot 120v leg.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:24 PM   #21
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Some of these replies seem to be conflating 30A/120v with 30A/240v. This hook-up will be essentially the same as RV 50A except that the available current on each leg is 30A instead of 50A. That's plenty for most uses and is nearly identical to what the venerable Onan7500 generator provides and that serves thousands of 50A motorhome as standard equipment.


I would do as twinboat suggests, leave the service as 30A/240v (7200 watts) on a 30A breaker. If the 4-pin dryer outlet isn't compatible with the RV shore cord, swap it for a 14-50R outlet but leave the supply breakers at 30A. I ran my 50A coach at home on a similar "twin 30A" configuration for a dozen years.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:34 PM   #22
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30 amp dryer outlet is not compatible with rv 30 amps. I think you have a good chance of smoking something. The big diffrence is the dryer has two hot 120v legs that read 240 across them. The rv 30 amp has one hot 120v leg.

Were this the "old style" house 30 amp (Two hots, NO NEUTRAL and a ground) you are absolutely correct.


But he has verified he does have a neutral.


So, two hots (L1 and L2), a neutral and a ground will allow him to use this wiring. It will just be 30 + 30= 60 amps total available VS 50 + 50= 100 amps total available.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:39 PM   #23
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Careful with the dog bone! I ran 2 ACs off a dog bone for a while. Everything seemed ok until I tried to pull the dog bone apart. The 50 had arced and welded itself to the 30.
Kind of curious on this one from what I've read in the past.
If the breaker was shut OFF, would this arcing condition have happened??
Thank you.
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:54 PM   #24
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Thanks 'winemaker' for posting the simplest way (post #19)

Leave the 30A 4 wire receptacle and use the 30A 4 prong to 50A adapter

No wiring changes needed, no confusion down the road, outlet can still be used for 4 prong dryer/welder and the RV gets plugged in w/o a hassle

K.I.S.S. !!!!
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Old 06-30-2022, 01:21 PM   #25
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30 amp dryer outlet is not compatible with rv 30 amps. I think you have a good chance of smoking something. The big diffrence is the dryer has two hot 120v legs that read 240 across them. The rv 30 amp has one hot 120v leg.
The OP doesn't have a 30 amp RV.

He has a 50 amp RV and can use a 30 amp 120/240 volt outlet.
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Old 07-01-2022, 05:11 PM   #26
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I'm not an electrician and I may very well be confused here! I thought a house dryer runs off 240VAC. A 50A RV uses two 120VAC circuits, NOT 240VAC. What am I missing? :confused
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Old 07-01-2022, 05:16 PM   #27
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I'm not an electrician and I may very well be confused here! I thought a house dryer runs off 240VAC. A 50A RV uses two 120VAC circuits, NOT 240VAC. What am I missing?

Yes, I guess it can be confusing.


HIS 30 amp has two hots, one neutral (critical) and a ground.


EXACTLY the same as an RV (or sticks and bricks for that matter) 50 amp. Both have two hots, a neutral and a ground. Either hot to neutral or ground= 120 VAC. Hot to hot= 240.



SO wiring is the same, only how many amps he can use are different.
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Old 07-01-2022, 05:20 PM   #28
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Yes, I guess it can be confusing.


HIS 30 amp has two hots, one neutral (critical) and a ground.


EXACTLY the same as an RV (or sticks and bricks for that matter) 50 amp. Both have two hots, a neutral and a ground. Either hot to neutral or ground= 120 VAC. Hot to hot= 240.



SO wiring is the same, only how many amps he can use are different.
So the difference is that the power cable to the RV splits the 240VAC out into two 120VAC circuits instead of using the 240 like the dryer. Right?
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