Community Forums

153stars · 04-24-2019, 08:44 AM

They make piercing clamps you clamp on run in a Allen screw...Supco BPV31 Bullet Piercing Valve . I wouldn't add one unless absolutely sure I needed recharge.
They have ones with quick 134a connectors as well.

azpete · 04-24-2019, 08:58 AM

most rv air conditioners dont need recharging. i have serviced rv units for years, all models. i havent had to recharge very many. usually its the start relay for the compressor, or one of the capacitors. short the thermostat leads and see if the compressor comes on.
if not go up and check the start relay.
for most repair facilities, the labor of adding a schrader valve, the cost of the refrigerant, plus three or four hours labor, its cheaper to just replace the older unit with a more efficient unit.

Ivylog · 04-24-2019, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 153stars

They make piercing clamps you clamp on run in a Allen screw...Supco BPV31 Bullet Piercing Valve .

Yes I’ve added R22 to a older unit... one valve on the low pressure side is all that’s needed. I use my IR temp gun shooting temperatures on the condenser to know how much to put in.

You can check how much Freon a system has in it... you want 90% of the coils on the condenser hot and the bottom ones cooler. It’s not rocket science and I’ve used propane instead of R12 (same vapor pressure) on a farm tractor AC system. Not a good idea with the condenser at the front of a vehicle.

KConnington · 04-24-2019, 09:40 AM

Thanks everyone
the units work ok, no problems currently
I just wanted to see if I could add some freon/refridgerant before summer started
your input is helpful if they do act up though
Cheers!

KConnington · 04-24-2019, 09:46 AM

Thanks everyone
the units work ok, no problems currently
I just wanted to see if I could add some freon/refridgerant before summer started
your input is helpful if they do act up though
Cheers!

Kahoona · 04-24-2019, 10:25 AM

We had our 12yr old Dometic go in Arizona. 12 yrs. Low coolant. Not bad.I checked around to see if we could get the newer more efficient one with a higher BTU rating and had that done for around a thousand. That would only be the start. One month after the warranty was up it died in Key Largo. Classic low coolant symptoms. I called. Can't fix leaks has to be replaced. Dealer sent 2 guys and a pickup truck with a new unit and the claimed $790 became first $1400 then $1100. Guys swore they usually lasted forever.

Eight months later the new one died in a State Park in central FL. In warranty finally I thought. Nobody would touch it for warranty work. They all said 6 months backup and told me to take it where I got it. We drove home to North Palm, FL. Eventually we took the 5 hour each way drive and stayed 2 nights to have it replaced under warranty at the Key Largo dealer. They said it was a leak. They could see where it leaked. Never happens with Dometics! It cost us a hundred to the dealer, a tank of gas and two nights in a park.

If I had a set of valves the first or second one would still be working now. Adding a can of coolant until I can get the leak fixed would not be a problem. I now know AC people who can braze the leak. We are simply sheep for the shearing.

oscarvan · 04-24-2019, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KConnington

Thanks everyone
the units work ok, no problems currently
I just wanted to see if I could add some freon/refridgerant before summer started
your input is helpful if they do act up though
Cheers!

Why? Over-servicing is a bad idea.

Dom · 04-24-2019, 06:18 PM

Ditto Ditto Ditto!

153stars · 04-24-2019, 06:51 PM

Look up cleaning the condensor coil properly . Time well spent . Clean fan blade if filthy
I wouldn't add a clamp on service port unless I was absolutely positive it was low on freon.
A lot of times a unit will start to frost or close to it before it gets too low.

spyderRV · 04-25-2019, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KConnington

Thanks everyone
the units work ok, no problems currently

Falls into my category "If it is working don't mess with it!."

That being said, I'm the fool who will mess with it even if it is working.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/ac-is...ml#post3666540

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/roof-...ml#post3710212

steve52 · 04-25-2019, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KConnington

Thanks everyone
the units work ok, no problems currently
I just wanted to see if I could add some freon/refridgerant before summer started
your input is helpful if they do act up though
Cheers!

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Dom · 04-25-2019, 08:25 AM

FYI The refrigerant charge on an air conditioner is critical. Too much and you will get liquid refrigerant back to the compressor and could damage it. Too little and there is no suction cooling for compressor, it will overheat and (seize ya later) Correct charge is a cold sweat at suction line on compressor. if its a piston compressor, top will be cool. Rotaries are harder to tell as they pump discharge gas right into compressor housing

oakcreekeric · 07-31-2019, 10:34 AM

Hi Everyone -

I didn't want to start a new thread, and y'all seemed very knowledgeable - thought I would resurrect this thread..

On our last outing, we noticed our rear AC unit wasn't producing cold/cool air, just seemed to be "moving air" - and it was a HOT day - we would have felt cold air if it was working.. and we had the front AC unit to compare - something was wrong -

Last night, I removed the cover and noticed an oily substance around the compressor and when comparing the front and rear, they weren't working the same - I suspect I have a leak/issue -

Obviously, like you - I noticed it was a sealed unit - I know, from experience, I have a leak somewhere, likely a cracked brazed joint (I THINK that is where the oil was/is coming from) - My question is - is having the ports brazed in worth the time - THANKFULLY our neighbor is a commercial AC repair Tech and he's offered to throw in some ports, fill it with nitrogen and use his "sniffer" to see if he can find the leak - he's all "easy-peasy" about the whole deal - I'm not sure -

I wouldn't have much invested - maybe a case of beer - is this worth the effort or should I just buy a new one and replace it ?

I live in Wisconsin, so the season's aren't long - the RV is a 2012 (see signature) -

Whats the consensus on giving it a shot ?

Thanks in advance !!

House Husband · 07-31-2019, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oakcreekeric

Hi Everyone -

I didn't want to start a new thread, and y'all seemed very knowledgeable - thought I would resurrect this thread..

On our last outing, we noticed our rear AC unit wasn't producing cold/cool air, just seemed to be "moving air" - and it was a HOT day - we would have felt cold air if it was working.. and we had the front AC unit to compare - something was wrong -

Last night, I removed the cover and noticed an oily substance around the compressor and when comparing the front and rear, they weren't working the same - I suspect I have a leak/issue -

Obviously, like you - I noticed it was a sealed unit - I know, from experience, I have a leak somewhere, likely a cracked brazed joint (I THINK that is where the oil was/is coming from) - My question is - is having the ports brazed in worth the time - THANKFULLY our neighbor is a commercial AC repair Tech and he's offered to throw in some ports, fill it with nitrogen and use his "sniffer" to see if he can find the leak - he's all "easy-peasy" about the whole deal - I'm not sure -

I wouldn't have much invested - maybe a case of beer - is this worth the effort or should I just buy a new one and replace it ?

I live in Wisconsin, so the season's aren't long - the RV is a 2012 (see signature) -

Whats the consensus on giving it a shot ?

Thanks in advance !!

I suspect your neighbor is fully knowledgeable, his approach is spot on. Let him fix it and buy him and his wife a nice dinner.