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Old 04-08-2021, 10:24 AM   #1
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Question Capacitor specifications for Coleman Mach model 6636-871

From the circuit diagram sticker - it says the run capacitors for the compressors are supposed to be 30uF/370V...


Can someone tell me what YOUR unit or schematic indicates for the starter capacitors?


One of my compressors just hums and draws 50A when it tries to start, the other pulls a LOT of power during startup - so much that the inside fan almost stop but once started, it runs well!


I've measured the resistance over both the run and start coils and they seem fine - measuring thru start to run coil gives me roughly the total of the resistance the two - so that seems fine... My meter is not able to measure any resistance to ground (open circuit as one would hope to find)


I tried swapping the compressor / circuit feeding it and get the same result so in my mind - there's got to be something going on in the compressor.


With summer heat around the corner in Florida - I would LOVE to get the second compressor/cooling circuit up and running as the ONE is barely keeping up.


Any insight/suggestions is appreciated!
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:09 PM   #2
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I searched your model it lists three of the caps specs but only start kit . I couldn't share link for PDF for some reason. I just googled the model start capacitor. Found spare parts page.The start capacitors may have the pcr on them like a hard start cap and don't want to publish spec. because there's no circuit to take it back out.
I would ask anyone if they have added a Supco hard start to one.
I take it this is a basement air some owners may not have their model memorized and not know they can possibly help you. I know there have been at least one rebuild threads on similar basement are.
Not that's it's a lot of help.I can tell you many dual caps are the start is about four times the run side but I'm surprised the run caps are 30uf but they are big compressors for 120v.
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:20 PM   #3
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Question

Correct - this is the 2ton double two-circuit basement model (mine has the "cold vent" pointing to the "left/rear" when you look at it from the front)


That is correct - it has three capacitors, one for the inside blower (i think), then two sets of capacitors (one for each compressor) containing of one run capacitor plus a starting capacitor with a PTCR "switch" (variable resistor that is low ohm when cold and "cut out"/high resistance once current has warmed it up..


Its a shame you can't reach inside the compressor and "spin it" to see if it was locked up or something like that..


Much appreciated!
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:26 PM   #4
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It sounds like you could substitute a supco hard start directly . They normally stack on the run side cap because of circuit that takes start cap back out prevents from being properly charged when needed. I supposed could draw power instead. Is the issue you can't find the right cap" the search I did show a part # possibly aftermarket" or are they ridiculously priced to just test it. I'm assuming swapping circuits didn't mean swapping caps as your suspecting it.
I have found spades completely cooked or just plain loose in HVACs , chillers. Not a big fan of them in high current use. I know these are not the easiest ACs to to work on, hope its just the cap.
This comes up as a hard start kit listed to fit you model probably slightly larger cap than stock but smaller than most supco hard starts at triple the price. Also not a fan these caps compared to can type. We have used hard start kits in many ACs and gotten far more life out of mostly large window / wall slide in units that are all over our plant now. Every so many years you can't find same dimension unit any longer then you have to alter the through wall installation.
https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...pacitor-w-ptcr
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:37 PM   #5
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Sounds like a stuck compressor. A hard start kit may work. Worth a try.
Otherwise you are looking at a replacement compressor or unit.
Good luck
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:43 PM   #6
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This might sound silly - but, what would happen if you add TWO hardstart kits, JUST for testing to see if a stuck compressor might come back to life?
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Old 04-08-2021, 08:49 PM   #7
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Here is a part list but it doesn't call out the start capacitor capacity . Just calls the a start device .
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Colman Mack Parts.pdf (530.7 KB, 7 views)
File Type: pdf 6535heatpump.pdf (1.00 MB, 5 views)
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Old 04-09-2021, 03:42 AM   #8
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I can't remember if the Supco 5 or 6 is largest for 120v comp. but I can't imagine any larger or two will do anything else. If your not on 30 or 50 amp cord start your genny. Replace the run as well it gives a little kick, get decent quality no need for OEM they don't make them. Should be able to get both for $30-$40



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This might sound silly - but, what would happen if you add TWO hardstart kits, JUST for testing to see if a stuck compressor might come back to life?
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Old 04-09-2021, 04:44 AM   #9
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Exclamation

Heeey now! That's a great idea too.. I'll turn the RV around and use the shortest possible shore cord DIRECTLY to the A/C! My outlet box is actually mounted on the outside wall within a foot or two from the electric meter with a 100A service so I can't get much cleaner/stronger power than that


I'm going to get my second COVID 19 shot this afternoon so i probably won't get out there until tomorrow to test this ;-)


I'll let y'all know how it goes!! Thanks :-)
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Old 04-10-2021, 10:48 AM   #10
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When you say you swapped controls to compressor you probably didn't swap start car did you? If start cap is dead it's not gonna want bump over. Just making sure your not on a 50' 16ga cord.
Don't draw FLA locked rotor amps too much before getting/trying a new cap.
I don't how well you can inspect connections inside but I have run across many bad spades on high amp side.
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Old 04-10-2021, 10:59 AM   #11
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Iím waiting for the Supco 6 to be delivered. When I ďswappedĒ / I basically swapped the two compressors leads so that everything controlling #1 instead controlled #2.

Whenever I test, I donít think Iíve left it longer that 0.5-1 second. The plan is:
* Good power
* All caps replaced
* Supco added to both compressors

Iíll try that one the sun gets lower

The unit is encapsulated so if this doesnít work, Iím going to pull it. Hopefully the nit has service valves (Iíd like to check the working circuit anyway)

Thank You !

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When you say you swapped controls to compressor you probably didn't swap start car did you? If start cap is dead it's not gonna want bump over. Just making sure your not on a 50' 16ga cord.
Don't draw FLA locked rotor amps too much before getting/trying a new cap.
I don't how well you can inspect connections inside but I have run across many bad spades on high amp side.
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Old 04-10-2021, 02:53 PM   #12
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I just got my delivery of the SPP6's but just as I got home - a storm has moved in.. I'll have to check it in the morning... Just FYI; the SP6 has a Cap of 160uF in it
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Old 04-11-2021, 05:26 PM   #13
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We had storms come thru overnight and this morning so I'm just back from being outside... Both compressors are withing +-0.1 ohm of each other both on start and run coil... I replaced both RUN and START caps on both circuits (I know, stoopid - don't touch it if it works!) and added the SPP6. The first compressor came on nicely.. When the second tried to kick in - it just hummed for a few seconds (1-3) and then shut off and tried again in about 30 seconds. After two of those cycles I pulled the nine pin connector that comes from the vehicle/thermostat to shut the whole thing down...


Sat and scratched my head for a while, took a walk-a-bout and when I got back, about an hour later - and plugged the 9 pin connector back in - everything is DEAD!?


I don't get the green OR red LED.. I checked supply power - beautiful 120volt even when i started the waterheater...


Checking the board - i found that it is the 6535C320 and found it here:
https://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/6535c3209.pdf


It tells me everything about how to convert a prior version of this board this this version (that PO must have had done)... Does anyone know what the pins in the 9 pin connector are? Knowing what I do now - i am going to push on WITHOUT the control board to see if I can just get the compressor to start - wired with JUST inbound power, run/start cap AND the SPP6... (That'll be next weekend)
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Old 04-11-2021, 05:53 PM   #14
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Anders , check my post above , the second file has the pin out for the connector .
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