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Old 04-11-2018, 08:16 PM   #1
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Ceiling Lights Stopped working

Hey guys, 4 interior Ceiling Lights Stopped working. All other lights in the coach working. 10 amp lighting fuse looks good. I pulled the switch/dimmer cover and attempted to test for 12V but didn't have a ground source. I think the lighting circuit from this switch routes to my bathroom light switch a few feet away and that light is working. I haven't checked the bulbs yet but would be surprised if all 4 went out at the same time. Photos attached. Any ideas on how to get a good ground on my test light?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-11-2018, 08:19 PM   #2
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Jumper cable to frame or battery negative.
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Old 04-11-2018, 08:46 PM   #3
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Good idea. Thx...
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Old 04-12-2018, 08:45 PM   #4
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Got the test light a good ground. When I tested the white wire "to the lights" per the photo above, the test light lit up and the overhead ceiling lights came on???. The red wire "to the battery" has no voltage...Any ideas?
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdunningsr View Post
Got the test light a good ground. When I tested the white wire "to the lights" per the photo above, the test light lit up and the overhead ceiling lights came on???. The red wire "to the battery" has no voltage...Any ideas?
Just a guess...

The WHITE wire from the switch is connected to an ORANGE wire which, I assume, leads to the light. That light, as you suggested is also wired to your bathroom switch. Your test light, which is grounded, lit up when connected to that WHITE/ORANGE wire which means, the fixture is powered from another source. When you grounded that connection with your test light, current flowed (through your test light and the orange/white wires) and the bulb lit. That would make me think the problem may be with the GROUND connection of the switch/dimmer. Flipping the switch would ground the wire from the light causing it to light, just as your test light did.

Having a dimmer feature may be the key here. That might be the part that is faulty. I suspect the WHITE wire from the switch is connected to the dimmer/rheostat which operates like a variable ground. If you have an "open" there, the light will not receive a ground from the switch black wire and never light.

Why you don't have power at the switch RED wire, I can't figure unless it is part of a 3-way switch circuit.

Don't take the above as necessarily accurate. Just my idea as what would account for your testing experience.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:53 PM   #6
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Ok. So appears I'm a D.A. there was a 3rd switch connected to these lights in the convenience center...Working fine now...thx everybody!
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