Changing Brake Fluid - how often, really?

[F4Gary]

Originally Posted by Minnesota51

Thank you. I can afford to have it done professionally by experts. So I don't need to do any backyard stuff and, I would probably screw it up anyway since I have no experience. Plus I can't physically get up and down as easily as I once could.

There are people that like to do things themselves just because they're very particular about it. They feel better doing it themselves and enjoy it. I get that.

Then have your shop do it.

[Minnesota51]

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Then have your shop do it.

That's what I was planning to do. It is in the shop now for annual maintenance.

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by Minnesota51

Every time I have my 2015 Itasca Sunstar, F53 chassis, serviced I say check all the fluids.

In seven years they have never changed the brake fluid. So tomorrow I will ask to have it done when it goes in for its annual service.

I see the manual says every two years or 30,000 miles.

But other vehicles have different recommendations. Toyota, for example, says only to check for decolorization or dirty brake fluid and only change it then.

Come to think of it, I am 70 and don't remember ever changing brake fluid on my vehicles, or having a mechanic advise me to do it.

How often have you flushed and refilled your brake fluid?

When it looks dark in my cars, but Motorhomes are a different story and for keeping it changed often so as to keep it's boiling point up to as near original as possible. The stuff starts to absorb water as soon as you open the bottle and with the boiling point of water being 212F vs DOT4 for being well over 400F and for 5.1 above 500F it's suspectable to boiling on long downhill grades and especially for and unskilled driver.
I'd say every every few years to be correct and more often if you live in the mountains and spend most of your time, driving it there.

There's a poor man and/or unskilled man way of doing this and for just sucking all the fluid out of the Master cylinder with a bulb or syringe, refill with fresh fluid and for doing it again a few days later after driving. Even a third time might be necessary and for being a lot better than not changing it at all.

[Bill Gail]

Originally Posted by edgray

May I suggest you read my post above. I think it is just the opposite

To summarize it, I wrote. "The point of this long post is to say it is possible to replace the fluid less frequently IF you drive your coach on a regular basis and don't let it sit too long, especially in high humidity climates. YMMV."

I did read your post , and you're certainly entitled to your opinion , as am I .

If you noticed , I live it the Pacific NorthWest . Humidity is just one of the many services we offer .

Even the Chassis and Coach builders recommend more frequent service and fluid changes when used in Severe Duty . Which pretty much defines a MH use .

When I have the fluids changed they never show any contamination , degradation or discoloration .

Rig's that are stored outside and exposed to the elements will certainly be more prone to having issues .

My service routine has worked for me .

[edgray]

Originally Posted by Bill Gail

I did read your post , and you're certainly entitled to your opinion , as am I .


.



.

Sorry, I mis-interpreted your statement and did not realize you were speaking about severe duty when you said full time on the road.

[Camp CA]

2015 F53 owner's manual on page 125 specifies to change the brake fluid every 2 years.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...US_07_2014.pdf

[Bonron]

Originally Posted by CamJam1

The brakes on your motorhome get a lot hotter than those in your car. Besides potentially causing corrosion, moisture will lower the boiling point of your brake fluid. If it boils, your brake pedal stands a very good chance of going to the floor. I seldom flush the brake fluid on cars, but my motorhome gets flushed every two years.

The newer coaches are using synthetic brake fluid and isn’t prone to water absorption as before. But I must say that I’ve never had a brake problem involving compromised brake fluid. So I’d save the money for more beer.

[buddy110]

When I was racing my endurance car, Changed the brake fluid after every race. I did this through a complete power bleed followed by and old school bleed We did this because water can enter the fluid and cause all sorts of trouble. In such a hostile environment I play safe. I have never changed it on a street vehicle. Get yourself an H2o reader and check your fluid. anything more than .5% water in the fluid change it

[THenne1713]

DOT3 has not changed much, but you may not be using DOT3? I was concerned too, and (last known brake job) on mine was about 2015, two owners back before I bought in 2017. I had concerns, too, for my 1999 E450sd, so bought (Amazon) a BRAKE FLUID MOISTURE METER, and it showed <1% moisture, so I feel good. I too, am still CURIOUS WHY F53 different from Class-C Manuals/ SCHEDULES on this issue?

[HarryStone]

Higher brake loading?

[ItalGerBrit]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

As Harry stated, brake fluid attracts water. You'd think that since brake systems are for the most part, SEALED systems, that there's no way to attract water/moisture. Well, through the seals, cups etc., yes, it's very, very minute but, it happens. When it does, you have a deteriorating system without you knowing it. And water or moisture inside the systems, often travels to the lowest points which, usually mean the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hense, this is why your calipers or wheel cylinders can present with ugly, dark fluid and pitted surfaces.

Flushing of the system, on at least a 2–3-year basis, will help in reducing the replacement of expensive parts that get corroded. Flushing an RV brake system is not all that hard. Without expensive *pressurized* brake system tools, a two person team can do it in about a half hour. You need to make sure you have ample new brake fluid on hand 'cause you'll be flowing it through each bleeder 'till it's nice and clean.
Scott

Pressure bleeders are not expensive. ~100$ and are very easy to use with just one person. Maybe 15 minutes to completely flush the entire system. Suck out the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster, Refill with fresh fluid, bleed the breaks starting st RR, LR, RF, and then LF. You bleed esch corner until the fluid l looks clean and new. Do not empty the reservoir or you will have to start all over to get out the air. I bought the Motive Power tool when racing(Porsche club races, etc) as we changed our brake fluid frequently because of boiling the fluid despite using high temp racing fluid. Sometimes a couple of times in a race weekend. On RV, I agree, every 2-3 years is ideal but every 4-5 years or so or when it is discolored is Ok. If you ride the brakes to keep down the speed on a long descent, you can easily boil the fluid and the pedal will get mushy. If that happens, bleed the brakes, and top up the fluid. I always have brake fluid on hand as well as well as a bleeder wrench and catch bottle. I off road Hummers and we frequently have to bleed mine or someone's brakes when they/me forget to downshift coming out of the Mtns and end up cooking the fluid and calipers or drum. Bleed the hot caliper and back on the road. The fluid will be dangerously hot as well as the caliper if you bleed it before it cools down. But, it is very very simple. If, for what ever the reason, you brake pedal goes to the floor, pump it as fast as you can and you will regain some braking power unless a line, master cylinder seal, etc has totally failed. I have had that happen on the track and pumping the brake pedal very fast saved the car, me, and the day.

[Leonardos302]

Originally Posted by Minnesota51

Every time I have my 2015 Itasca Sunstar, F53 chassis, serviced I say check all the fluids.

In seven years they have never changed the brake fluid. So tomorrow I will ask to have it done when it goes in for its annual service.

I see the manual says every two years or 30,000 miles.

But other vehicles have different recommendations. Toyota, for example, says only to check for decolorization or dirty brake fluid and only change it then.

Come to think of it, I am 70 and don't remember ever changing brake fluid on my vehicles, or having a mechanic advise me to do it.

How often have you flushed and refilled your brake fluid?

I had major brake failure from old brake fluid. Apparently moisture builds up in the fluid making it bad. Also the brake lines were close to exhaust and the combination of moisture and heat caused the failure, When everything got cool they worked again till it got hot. I replaced the fluid with a german blue racing brake fluid that had a higher boiling point and never had a problem again. This happened a while back on another rv that I owned

[ItalGerBrit]

Originally Posted by Leonardos302

I had major brake failure from old brake fluid. Apparently moisture builds up in the fluid making it bad. Also the brake lines were close to exhaust and the combination of moisture and heat caused the failure, When everything got cool they worked again till it got hot. I replaced the fluid with a german blue racing brake fluid that had a higher boiling point and never had a problem again. This happened a while back on another rv that I owned

That fluid was ATE Blue. I used that in my race cars as well. It has a dye in it to make bleeding easier to tell when you have the fresh fluid in the lines. Next flush and you use the ATE Gold. Fresh fluid color appears in catch bottle and you know that you have completely flushed and you are done on that corner. Our govt banned the blue dyed ATE but the Gold is still available. I add blue brake dye to mine to make help flushing and alternate between the Gold and Blue with each flush.

[smeg99]

I will not risk my life or the lives of others so I change my brake fluid every 2-3 years. Small price to pay. Cars driven in the city may not experience the heat load to boil the moisture out of brake fluid but the same cannot be said when driving twisty mountains roads. Motorhomes are mainly driven on highways at highway speeds. One panic stop may or may not be a problem but you should NEVER drive in the mountains with old fluid.


A friend and I were in the mountains in our RVs. After coming down into a small town, he had no brakes - the peddle went to the floor. Pumping did not help. Thank goodness there was a shoulder and with down shifting and the park brake he managed to stop after passing a couple of cars. We changed the old fluid and he was good to go.



Brake systems are NOT sealed systems. Moisture can and will enter and be absorbed by the brake fluid. Why take a chance? Make sure your tires, brakes and steering systems are in top shape all the time.