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Old 06-23-2019, 06:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
The ts95 solenoid you got from Napa will work fine for letting the alternator charge the coach batteries while the engine is running. If/when you need to use it to boost your chassis battery and start your coach it will be undersized. It may work a few times as long as you're in mild (not super cold) temperatures and your engines starts up easily and quickly. If you need more than a few seconds of boost to get the engine started this ts95 solenoid will definitely be undersized.

If you decide to upgrade to a 200 amp continuous duty solenoid this is a very good option. It has silver tungsten carbide contacts and is a very high quality unit. I put one on our Adventurer and liked it so much I ordered another for our Suncrusier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This unit has 4 posts, can it be installed to replace a 3 post solenoid?
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmalibu View Post
This unit has 4 posts, can it be installed to replace a 3 post solenoid?


Yes. It can. The 4th post is grounded to the chassis with a short jumper wire to the mounting bolt of the solenoid. A 12 gauge wire is more than enough.
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:47 AM   #31
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Consider a blue sea ACR relay one of 3 versions will combine banks to charge either on AC or alternator https://www.google.com/search?q=blue...hrome&ie=UTF-8
There are many posts on similar subject , bad charge relay big boy or bird every week posted. Lifetime guarantee $80ish to $200ish
Hard to beat $ 18. but smallest at $80 is higher rated as well
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Old 06-24-2019, 11:19 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
twinboat Nailed it.

Mr Malibu needs a 200 amp continuous duty solenoid. It has to be a continuous duty because when the engine is running the solenoid is energized.

Lots of good info in thread provided by all.

The battery boost solenoid is a common failure on this vintage motorhome. They last about 12 years and then the contacts get all crudded up. They sound like they’re working but no contact inside.
Actually the engine running is the least of it. If your coach supports charging the chassis from the converter, the solenoid can be energized for weeks or months...even years if you stay connected to shore power all the time and many do. I doubt if the 80 amp is a problem but agree with Twinboat that 20 would be better.
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Old 06-24-2019, 03:17 PM   #33
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Actually the engine running is the least of it. If your coach supports charging the chassis from the converter, the solenoid can be energized for weeks or months...even years if you stay connected to shore power all the time and many do. I doubt if the 80 amp is a problem but agree with Twinboat that 20 would be better.


The battery boost solenoid does not stay energized when charging from the converter or plugged in to AC on the OP’s coach. The only time the solenoid in question is energized is when the engine is running or when the driver pushes and holds the battery boost switch.

No doubt a 200 amp solenoid is the best option.
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Old 07-04-2019, 04:10 PM   #34
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Check the charge relay or the solenoid that turn on when the ignition key is on.
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Old 07-04-2019, 04:16 PM   #35
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If my trailer is not going to be used for more than 6 weeks, I pull the batteries and put them on a charger in my garage. If wet cells drop below 10.5 volts, they are toast. If you have a generator on your rig, run it at least once a month to get the batteries back up to 12.5 volts.
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Old 07-04-2019, 04:18 PM   #36
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All - Battery Safety is the first thing to consider. Now with that said, if you have batts at 8.8VDC, they are toast, and some RV's require 10.5VDC for the switchover systems to even operate correctly. Second, do not fill the battery's up to the top with distilled water, cover the plates and leave a space, that electrolyte will expand as the system is trying to charge them up, and if too full, it will go all over the place.
One person, maybe you, suggested charging them one at a time, yep, that is what I would do, and take it away out in the driveway or someplace it wont matter if it explodes, yes explodes, been discharged way beyond limit, and it might have shorted cells, it could explode, not likely, why take a chance. Charge it at a low amperage rate, the lowest your stand-alone charger will allow, if you have choice. If after period of time, and I don't know on time, check the readings with a hydro unit, more accurate than meter, you want to know the specific gravity of the electrolyte, that tells more than just straight voltage.
Someone else will have to chime in with the way your alternator charges your batteries, don't know anything about winnys. But you might do yourself a favor and crawl around and make sure all the connections on all the things related to the system are tight, on previous one we owned 95% of all my connections were lose, including the genset connection to the house, that was a job I can tell you.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:01 PM   #37
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I bought a used Winnebago on an F53 chassis. First problem was the chassis battery went dead. Turns out it does not charge from shore power by design. I installed a Trik-L-Start and that took care of it. Next the coach batteries failed to hold a charge (they were 5 years old) so I replaced them, now no issues. Your issue with really low coach batteries is odd. Voltage that low indicates a total discharge or total failure of a couple cells. I didn’t read through all the posts yet so I hope you got your problem addressed.
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Old 07-04-2019, 07:15 PM   #38
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Check your alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmalibu View Post
Hello, I have a 2007 Itasca Sunova 35J

The Coach batteries are 1.5 years old, and have only used the coach about four trips.

The deep cell batteries after charging with a charger read out as only 8.8 on the multimeter, while the chassis battery reads a full 13.

When the chassis is running, I still get the same low reading on the house units, but slightly higher on the chassis battery.

Shouldn’t I be getting a charging flow from the chassis lines on the coach batteries while the truck is running?

I’m just not sure if I should buy new batteries, or is there another issue with the charging system.

My next step is to check the battery fluid level, and try to charge each one independently with a charger.

Any thoughts on how to diagnose the chassis charging system for coach batteries?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jon
I had the same thing happen to me. I bought a used motor home from the evil Camping World. They put in three new house batteries. Some time later 3,000 miles away I discovered my house batteries weren't being charged up. An RV dealership had a really expensive look at the problem and said the alternator wasn't working. They were able to charge the batteries back up, so I at least I didn't have to replace those. Anyway, the alternator did the trick.
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Old 07-04-2019, 08:07 PM   #39
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Battery problem

You can buy all of the equipment you can find to test your existing batteries but don’t waste your money. Get a good hydrometer (not the kind w/ the floating balls), one with a floating build with specific numbers on it. Check the water in every single cell. If the cells don’t come up to spec for the battery, go buy new ones. The money you are spending on chargers, voltage meters, ect. Could go to the cost of new batteries. That being said, everyone should have s digital voltage meter in there toolbox. JMHO
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:40 AM   #40
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If you are going to buy new batteries here is what I did. The old school lead acid batteries require distilled water out here in the Arizona desert. As you said, they are about $90 each ( mine are a Group 31). But for about $180 each you can get stronger AGM batteties that do not use water and are completely sealed. We did yhat and can now go four days without running grnerator, longer when conditions allow us to use ouf 100w solar panel. Lithium Ion batteries are/were about $400 each when I did research earlier this year.
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Old 07-05-2019, 04:20 PM   #41
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Fire Up -- thanks for the explanation. I was wondering what I did wrong on my 2005 Holiday Rambler Neptune (DP) which has a 1000watt/60a converter/charger. It is hooked directly to the coach batteries and is powered by shore power or generator.



I noticed that there was no connection to charge the chassis batteries unless the engine was running but I never thought to check voltage to the chassis batteries when the converter was active. So, since there was another DC outlet from the converter, I ran two wires to the chassis batteries to have them charge, too. I wound up frying the two coach batteries, so there must be some connection, as you describe, where the converter charges all four batteries when only the converter is on. Only my connection isn't working so I have a good battery tender hooked only to the chassis batteries and use the converter for the coach batteries. Since I have 50-amp shore power where I store my RV, I made a 110v plug on one end but used the normal 220v plug on the other, connecting only one power wire. The battery tender for the chassis batteries and the converter are plugged into it. Been working good for the last layup season but I sure am glad I read your post. Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:28 PM   #42
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I strongly agree with AKIQPilot about the Cole Hersee 24213 solenoid. I don't think there is a better solenoid out there. A cheaper one will work but will probably fail at the worst time. I replaced a solenoid on my coach with a cheaper 200 amp solenoid and it lasted 3 weeks before the contacts fused and the solenoid would not disconnect. In my case it was a solenoid in the ignitions system and I couldn't shut the engine down without using the kill switch for my engine.

The cost is higher partly because of the silver alloy contacts but well worth it. I now carry an extra one.
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