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Old 09-04-2014, 01:45 PM   #1
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Chassis repair help in Anaheim

Hi everyone,

I am currently in Anaheim and I am having a power steering issue. I have searched these forums and haven't heard anyone with an issue like mine. Most people have problems with their steering whining or hissing. My noise is right under the seat. It sounds like Chewbacca is right below the floor of the steering columns. Hollow rubbing metal? Baritone tuba? I am not sure how to describe it. I can hear the noise inside the coach more than outside and there is a slight vibration that coincides with the noise.

A bus repair shop in Nevada thought that the king pins needed to be lubed, so they did it for free. That didn't do anything. I recently learned that you need to take the weight off the wheels to do this and they definitely didn't jack it up.

The rig, a 2007 monaco camelot (rr8s) was recently serviced (all fluids), but I double checked the big 3 filter tall tank in back and it is full, right where it should be.

The issue came on suddenly. The rig was parked in storage for two weeks after a perfect trip. Two weeks later, I drive it to fill it up and the steering is moaning. I drove 250 miles here to Anaheim and the problem did seem to get a bit quieter (maybe not) when parking here. However, I was parked for two weeks here and had to move to a new site this week. When I moved sites, the noise got at least twice as loud.

I am here for another week and I am hoping to find a good recommendation. There are a lot of shops and mechanics here, but his issue is one that I could throw a lot of money at if I don't find someone knowledgeable. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:53 PM   #2
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Well in a power steering I had in a car once, I had a similar issue as yours. I sucked out as much of the power steering fluid as I could, and replaced it with new. After that, no more moaning. You could try that. Don't introduce air. Even if you only replace a little at a time, you can operate the steering to mix old and new, and then replace some more.
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Old 09-04-2014, 03:53 PM   #3
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If you feel it is safe enough to drive it to Colton, then hard to beat Colton Trucks.

Best of luck,
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:58 PM   #4
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Zacktown, I'm not sure what chassi you have(sounds like a diesel) but if it is a Ford Chassi there is a Ford RV Chassi shop in Placentia at Fairway Ford. It is within a couple miles of the border with Anaheim, so relatively close wherever you are in Anaheim, our MH is new so I haven't used them yet. I have talked to them a couple of times re some maintenance I do on my own and they have been very helpful(even though they wern't making any money)...There is also a Camping World off the I5 at Artesia exit, which is relatively close to Anaheim(couple of minutes on the freeway). I see alot of big diesel MH's getting worked on there, but I haven't used them yet.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:00 PM   #5
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Pasdad1 - you know, I have heard this suggested enough that I might as well try it. Turkey baster and ATF here I come. If that doesn't work...

Smitty, I think I will take it to Colton. In my opinion, it is something that definitely needs attention, but most likely, not dangerous. Thank you for the referral. Definitely what I was looking for.

Thank you both and I will try the quickie ATF fix tomorrow and report back.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:20 PM   #6
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X2 on Colton Truck shop!

The hydraulic reservoir tank and hoses hold gallons of fluid so you are gonna need something much larger than a turkey baster.

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Old 09-04-2014, 07:04 PM   #7
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Yes, you are right Richard. I read in the manual the procedure for changing the filters. It seems really easy, so I am going to get a 5 gallon bucket, figure out the 3 filter part numbers, get 4 gallons of fluid (per manual) and have at it.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:58 PM   #8
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zacktown......If it's moaning, something is going on with the pump. Check the serpentine belt and make sure it's not slipping. My Diplomat use to have a low moan at the front end when the wheel was cranked hard.

Second, if it's more of a metal to metal sound , you have three zerk fittings on your steering column. One is inside, you have to remove the black housing around the lower steering column to reach the upper one. The middle one is very hard to see and is up high in the generator bay. You have to be a contortionist to reach it and usually doesn't get lubed. The third one is down at the bottom of the steering column and was most likely lubed during the oil change.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:58 AM   #9
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I personally have had great experiences with Redlands RV and Truck Performance Center | Just another WordPress site for service and repairs.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:54 PM   #10
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Dittos on Redland truck. They work on my Spartan MM chassis and I've sent several referrals to them. Call Karen on Monday and talk to one of the techs. They'll get your rig back on the road ASAP.
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:14 PM   #11
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I have been to Colton Truck a lot. They do excellent work but call first for an appointment as they don't take you in and then let you sit.

I haven't been to Redlands Truck but friends have and they say they are a good shop.

I would go to either one.
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:23 AM   #12
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Pete's Road Service in Corona is who I now use. Can get a good deal on tires/batteries while you are there. They can also weigh wheels individually and do alignments. They may have a closer location to where you are in Anaheim. Just google.
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Old 09-13-2014, 12:21 AM   #13
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Hi All,

Here is the update. I went to Redlands Truck. I didn't have a "real" appointment because of my crazy week, but they fit me on on 12 hours notice. They are definitely a busy shop and the guy that checked me in even confirmed that. I was a bit worried based on past RV shop experiences that I was about to be ignored. Once I got past that initial concern/contact, everything was great. You would have thought i was the only customer. I spoke to 3 people over the next few hours (total time from drop off to pick up) and this busy shop all knew who I was and what was going on. Wow!

I am going back there next month because they have a custom (and better) solution for my failed fan control valve. I spent a few minutes doing some tech talk with a couple of the guys in the front office (chris and michael) and got some great information and tips. I have a lot of "on the surface" information thanks to these forums, but these guys know it all in depth and how things work in practice. They are not close to me, but I don't care, I will make the trip

Okay, now here is the tidbit that I left out regarding my steering problem. I have a blue ox tru center and that was the problem. They removed it, problem solved. I won't speak for them (redlands truck and rv) in detail, but they didn't speak highly of the tru center. As for my experience, in winds, I would press a button and it would hold the wheel in one direction only. Winds from the right I would be outta luck. It also made my steering harder to turn. Like I was going against a spring. I suspected this, but it was confirmed when removed. Of course, mine was purchased in 2011, so no warranty left, but between cost of purchase, cost to install and cost to remove, I am pretty soured by the whole tru center experience.

If anyone has questions, I am happy to answer.

Thanks again
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:27 AM   #14
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Sorry, but in defense of the Blue-Ox Tru-Center, chances are the person who originally installed your Tru-Center did not know what they were doing and FIU which caused your problems.

I had my Tru-Center installed by a reputable truck chassis shop. It doesn't steer any harder than before and in fact it is easier due to its specific design and purpose.

It corrects for various different crowns with a simple touch of a button. It also corrects for any quartering winds but it won't correct for wind gusts.

When I notice that I am holding one side of the wheel harder than the other I step on my Tru-Center foot switch and presto, there is no longer any pressure needed on the steering wheel.

If you want to dump it I will give you $200 for the complete package, piston, axle bracket, electrical wiring and master control.

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