Community Forums

marjoa · 10-06-2016, 04:43 PM

Now that I've installed a Progressive Ind. EMS-HW50C unit, I now want a reliable, simple way to check CG power source before I park & hook up. I've read here and many other places how to check CG power but quite frankly—to me—very confusing. So I'll cut to the chase...is there a device, that I can buy to plug into a 50AMP CG power post to check and see if everything is ok before I pull into that camp spot, hook up and go into camp setup mode?

BFlinn181 · 10-06-2016, 05:18 PM

You have a device to measure the volts, amps, and proper wiring of the pedestal, it's your Progressive Ind. EMS-HW50C . It won't connect if any of the conditions aren't correct for the health of your electrical system. No other device needed. The display shows either everything is O.K. or an error code that tells you the problem.

If you want to check before plugging in, a multimeter will do the job.
Hot1 to Neutral =120v.
Hot2 to Neutral = 120v.
Hot1 to Hot2 = 240v.
Hot1 to Ground = 120v.
Hot2 to Ground = 120v.
Ground to Neutral = 0v.

powercat_ras · 10-06-2016, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marjoa

Now that I've installed a Progressive Ind. EMS-HW50C unit, I now want a reliable, simple way to check CG power source before I park & hook up. I've read here and many other places how to check CG power but quite frankly—to me—very confusing. So I'll cut to the chase...is there a device, that I can buy to plug into a 50AMP CG power post to check and see if everything is ok before I pull into that camp spot, hook up and go into camp setup mode?

This is the cheapest thing, $ 120, I found to accomplish your goal to see if a particular site 50 A outlet is good before pulling into the spot ...

You can google SSP-50X and it is for sale at multiple online stores.

BFlinn181 · 10-06-2016, 05:43 PM

I park and hook up electricity as step one. If the PI EMS says the power is O.K. I level the RV, hook up water, sewer, etc. Don't see the need for another way to tell the power is O.K., My EMS tells me voltage on L1, L2, etc.

UFO Pilot · 10-06-2016, 05:55 PM

I built a tester and used it until I installed permanent power protection. I have the tester in a bin and haven't used it since.

I used the following instructions to build my tester:
50-amp Tester

marjoa · 10-06-2016, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

You have a device to measure the volts, amps, and proper wiring of the pedestal, it's your Progressive Ind. EMS-HW50C . It won't connect if any of the conditions aren't correct for the health of your electrical system. No other device needed. The display shows either everything is O.K. or an error code that tells you the problem.

If you want to check before plugging in, a multimeter will do the job.
Hot1 to Neutral =120v.
Hot2 to Neutral = 120v.
Hot1 to Hot2 = 240v.
Hot1 to Ground = 120v.
Hot2 to Ground = 120v.
Ground to Neutral = 0v.

I get what you're saying but you know how it is with some CG's. In order to plugin the MH and check can be quite a hassle at times and quite time consuming. So if I spot a potential camp spot, I'd like to walk over and check it first before I go through all that parking hassle.

For example: Down here in Texas, this past spring we had a lot of flooding. And with that flooding came a lot of damage to several CG's. The last place we stayed at in our 30 AMP trailer, I had to check 5 different power posts before I found a good one. I used our 30AMP portable dog bone connector to check first before we backed in. I don't expect everyone to remember my many other posts so I'll say it again here...I can fix just about anything mechanical but electrical is my weak point. (but I am getting better)

So when you say use a multi-meter if you want to be sure (and you even showed a diagram) it's kind of a mystery to me. A multi-meter has only 2 leads. So if a multi-meter works, is this video a good representation of how this all works and what I can do to check it first?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hmuUBWKwGo

One last thing. The fella in the video suggests a couple of local cheap multimeters. But with all the other systems on board in a MH that will need to be checked at one point or another, is there any one meter you can suggest that would meet this CG power need and other needs in the future?

Thanks for being patient. I just want to be sure how to do this right.

tmw188 · 10-06-2016, 06:25 PM

Yes pretty much, your meter as he said may have different settings, you may even have a auto setting if it's auto ranging meaning it will read the voltage automatically up to its maximum rating. I found it odd if what I saw was correct him unplugging the cord while it sound like it was under a load running the air conditioner if that's what I heard running in the back ground. All loads in the rv should have been turned off then the breaker on the post turned off (if it had one) before pulling the plug. For demonstration purposes I'm not sure why he would even have the cord plug plugged in? Sorry that was the long answer.

iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

BFlinn181 · 10-06-2016, 06:39 PM

The video is right on the money, that's how you use a meter to check 50 amp RV pedestal. I have a number of meters, a few free ones from Harbor Freight (coupons in ads or online) and a couple of better ones, including a clamp on one. Fluke is one of the top brands, but you pay for it.

djhinds · 10-07-2016, 07:29 AM

Check this out, it may be just what you are looking for....

RV Campground Voltage Tester Protects Your RV

Dave

vsheetz · 10-07-2016, 08:13 AM

As for a multimeter, many choices that will get the job done. I have a few Sears Craftsman meters that I like. $10-$20 depending if on sale. Rugged and simple.

Safetysteve5 · 10-08-2016, 09:26 AM

I built a test meter like the one shown above and it works well. Mine includes two voltage meters. At one RV park, the power source tested good per the meter so we plugged in. Never got power in the coach so I checked for codes on my Progressive EMS and it showed low frequency.
This is a parameter the tester does not include. Walked to another site and using the tester it showed that source was completely dead (yes breaker was on). The third site we tried tested good and when we connected all was good thru the EMS. I might note that this was a brand new RV park that wasn't even officially open yet. Park "manager" was there with us & noted that they needed to do some more testing, huh?

BFlinn181 · 10-08-2016, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safetysteve5

I built a test meter like the one shown above and it works well. Mine includes two voltage meters. At one RV park, the power source tested good per the meter so we plugged in. Never got power in the coach so I checked for codes on my Progressive EMS and it showed low frequency.
This is a parameter the tester does not include. Walked to another site and using the tester it showed that source was completely dead (yes breaker was on). The third site we tried tested good and when we connected all was good thru the EMS. I might note that this was a brand new RV park that wasn't even officially open yet. Park "manager" was there with us & noted that they needed to do some more testing, huh?

Frequency is set at the generating station and is strictly controlled to be 60Hz. It's actually a law to maintain 60Hz, many devices depend on it. I'm puzzled that it could be off in one pedestal and not the next, since they are all connected to the same source, I'd assume. Progressive Ind. EMS should stay connected if Hz is between 51--69 Hz. Normally US power grid maintains frequency within a few hundred parts per million of 60Hz.