Class A DP eliminate generator

[DirtRider]

Originally Posted by johntaves

There are many different tank makers and they tend to show you all the goofy shapes that they have built for RV and boat builders. I managed to find a tank that perfectly fits above my fresh tank and 3 can be placed side by side in my bay. There is less than 1/4" of play in both vertical and horizontal.

Each were about 40gal, so that's 120 waste. I added another 30 gal fresh above and between the frame rails. I had to weld up a frame to hold them. I had to fashion a new fiberglass tray that sits below the drains to let the drain exit in a different position than the original. However I made that tray have a 4" cavity filled with pink foam insulation.

There is no single answer for how to do it. It all depends on your setup and how sloppy the builder was in the first place. The odds are low that you can find a way to increase capacity that works well.

Yes, there will be 5 panels sitting underneath 5. The ones underneath will slide out.

Very cool. Well done!

[johntaves]

Originally Posted by RV Wally

I like your idea of the slide out panels but be careful of the wieght your adding to the roof that it wasn't designed to carry and make the coach top heavy.

I totally agree. Weight up top is horrible, a huge moment of inertia.

I would love to get rid of the 2 A/C units up there and replace with mini splits. Not sure where I can put the outside half. Maybe in the space freed up by the generator. It would be very cool to use the generator's radiator location for the heat exchanger.

[RV Wally]

Originally Posted by johntaves

I totally agree. Weight up top is horrible, a huge moment of inertia.

I would love to get rid of the 2 A/C units up there and replace with mini splits. Not sure where I can put the outside half. Maybe in the space freed up by the generator. It would be very cool to use the generator's radiator location for the heat exchanger.

The ducting to the ceiling would be a problem

[johntaves]

Originally Posted by RV Wally

The ducting to the ceiling would be a problem

I am not sure that I care about that. The mini split inside unit would be mounted in front of the passenger seat and not ducted through the ceiling.

The trick is finding a mini split that will fit underneath where the generator is, and preferably where its radiator is. Unfortunately that space is 28"x21". So far I have not found mini split with an outdoor unit that is less than 30" wide.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by johntaves

I am not sure that I care about that. The mini split inside unit would be mounted in front of the passenger seat and not ducted through the ceiling.

The trick is finding a mini split that will fit underneath where the generator is, and preferably where it's radiator is. Unfortunately that space is 28"x21". So far I have not found mini split with an outdoor unit that is less than 30" wide.

There is nothing magical about the box that a mini-split outside unit comes in. The components inside it only occupy a small portion of the space. With some simple metalsmithing skills you can easily reconfigure. The question to me is how much you're willing to modify one. If you are able to charge the unit yourself after installation you probably open even more options to customize the wrappings that hold the working bits.

[johntaves]

Originally Posted by richard5933

There is nothing magical about the box that a mini-split outside unit comes in. The components inside it only occupy a small portion of the space. With some simple metalsmithing skills you can easily reconfigure. The question to me is how much you're willing to modify one. If you are able to charge the unit yourself after installation you probably open even more options to customize the wrappings that hold the working bits.

Good point.

I don't know anything about charging one. There are some that state that they can be installed DIY. That one seems more expensive. I don't know what it takes to get a pro to charge it and whether they care if it is a modified thing.

[crb478]

All of the mini splits that I have seen or installed have come precharged. To date I have not installed a 110V unit or one in a MH. There is usually enough refrigerant in the system to leave the return line end loose and quickly charge/purge the lines. Tighten up the line and the system is charged.

You will need a special adapter to put standard gauges one the line or to vacuum the lines. I finally bought one for my home unit, but have not needed to use it yet. It will be needed to add refrigerant in the future.

It can certainly be a DYI project, but I would recommend buying the line sets and needed mounting for the Mini split maker.

[Fiesta48]

I'll bet youre gonna wanna keep that genny if your house power goes out for many hours.

[johntaves]

Originally Posted by crb478

All of the mini splits that I have seen or installed have come precharged. To date I have not installed a 110V unit or one in a MH. There is usually enough refrigerant in the system to leave the return line end loose and quickly charge/purge the lines. Tighten up the line and the system is charged.

You will need a special adapter to put standard gauges one the line or to vacuum the lines. I finally bought one for my home unit, but have not needed to use it yet. It will be needed to add refrigerant in the future.

It can certainly be a DYI project, but I would recommend buying the line sets and needed mounting for the Mini split maker.

Thanks, I'll read up some more.

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

I'll bet youre gonna wanna keep that genny if your house power goes out for many hours.

No, it is easier to drive the RV to the house and run a cord, or just unload the fridge into the RV and live in the RV. I don't have any great desire to hold diesel fuel and mount that thing, much less listen to it run.