Class A leveling Question

[Fatfendr38]

I use 2x12 pressure treated. 18in x 18 in. Drilled holes thru them on one side to loop nylon rope thru. Each rope is 3 ft long. No matter how many boards are on each side, I can pull them all out as 1 from each jack.

[vapor3000]

Originally Posted by donie

I would like to know what the members do if the spot your in isn't quite level and the leveling system reaches it's limit.
I'm thinking about making some boards to put under the pads.
I tried the plastic square ones but they squashed and didn't work to well.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

I use jack blocks I made from 5/4 treated side boards and internal brace with 3/4" plywood on each side. The advantage of this construction is the weight and they do not crack/warp like 2 x lumber.

I screwed an eyelet to position/remove the blocks with a rod. The height is around 6" and the base is around 12" x 12", but I set it up so all 4 will stack on each other to save storage space. They work great!!

[waynesc]

Originally Posted by Pepper2

Got this in an e-mail this A.M.

Great video

[gemini5362]

Quote:
Yes, therOne last idea. I carry a garden hoe as a multipurpose tool. It works well for positioning boards under jacks before deployment, and pushing ramps behind inner rear wheels before ascent. They're also handy for pulling that lumberyard out from under the coach when it's time to depart. When boondocking, I've used hoe to dig out high spots, which can lower wheels to help in leveling. It also is marked up as a measuring stick to help make sure there's enough clearance for rooms to extend in tight sites.

I liked your idea of the garden hoe. When it comes to measuring whether there is room enough for slides to go out I open one of the compartment doors in an area I am not sure about. My doors open wider than the slide. If the door will open all the way the slide will come out with out hitting anything.

[wyorancher]

Originally Posted by gemini5362

Quote:
Yes, therOne last idea. I carry a garden hoe as a multipurpose tool. It works well for positioning boards under jacks before deployment, and pushing ramps behind inner rear wheels before ascent. They're also handy for pulling that lumberyard out from under the coach when it's time to depart. When boondocking, I've used hoe to dig out high spots, which can lower wheels to help in leveling. It also is marked up as a measuring stick to help make sure there's enough clearance for rooms to extend in tight sites.

I liked your idea of the garden hoe. When it comes to measuring whether there is room enough for slides to go out I open one of the compartment doors in an area I am not sure about. My doors open wider than the slide. If the door will open all the way the slide will come out with out hitting anything.

Hoe does work. My DW uses her cane.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by wyorancher

Hoe does work. My DW uses her cane.

[AUPOP]

Originally Posted by vapor3000

I use jack blocks I made from 5/4 treated side boards and internal brace with 3/4" plywood on each side. The advantage of this construction is the weight and they do not crack/warp like 2 x lumber.

I screwed an eyelet to position/remove the blocks with a rod. The height is around 6" and the base is around 12" x 12", but I set it up so all 4 will stack on each other to save storage space. They work great!!

Like this idea...

[asuperheat]

I use old pieces of cypress that I had after I replaced bunks on a boat trailer. They are 10"x10"x4". They are light so they are easy to move, store and work great.

[T Gibson]

+ 1 asuperheat... Like the light weight idea! I understand the rear wheels should not come off the ground with the emergency brake in the rear but, 1) what is wrong wth extending the jacks all the way? 2) having the front tires off the ground? Give sound mechanical facts. Theses jacks are designed to lift our MH's, not like stabilizer jacks which only support the unit.

[reubenray]

Originally Posted by asuperheat

I use old pieces of cypress that I had after I replaced bunks on a boat trailer. They are 10"x10"x4". They are light so they are easy to move, store and work great.

I have the same setup, but mine are 12" by 12" and they are rough sawn cedar. I also put a metal band around them to keep them from splitting and a handle to make it easier to pick up. I use my firepit poker to place them under the jacks.

[phinneyj]

Originally Posted by Gordon Dewald

Use 12 x 12 pieces of marine grade plywood laminated to a 2.5 inch height

Then sandwich them between two poly cutting boards from IKEA. Offset handles 180 degrees.

I use this setup for my jack pads. I then use strips of Rubber cut from a Horse Stall mat to drive the low side up onto the tires. The mats are about an inch thick and the strips are of different lengths and the same width as the tires.

Easy to store and durable.

[PPAinPA]

I use the lvl's .. 4 pads made from 14 x 14 lvl's glued and screwed with nylon rope loop to move around with the awning hook. Works great.

[dpinvidic]

Originally Posted by T Gibson

+ 1 asuperheat... Like the light weight idea! I understand the rear wheels should not come off the ground with the emergency brake in the rear but, 1) what is wrong wth extending the jacks all the way? 2) having the front tires off the ground? Give sound mechanical facts. Theses jacks are designed to lift our MH's, not like stabilizer jacks which only support the unit.

For those who have air suspension, it it bad to suspend the wheels (hanging from air bags).

Dan

[AC Orange]

Originally Posted by UFO Pilot

I also bought some stall mat and cut it into 12" squares. It is made from recycled tires and is 3/4" thick. A 4' x 6' piece can be bought for about $48 and you can make 24 - 12" squares out of it.

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I like this idea. What did you use to cut them into smaller sections ?
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