Class A windshield leak

[Vaflatlander]

Originally Posted by BonS

No. At the very least Flex Seal doesn't hold up well to applications that are exposed to UV rays from the sun.

I had a similer problem 5 years ago. It was quite a learning experiance. Do you still have a Crt tv hanging over the windshield the weight could contribute to your problem. The cap has support struts suspending the windshield you need to check them. Finally a butyl adhesive, not silicone must be used to secure the windshield and the gasket. Good prep is essential to a sucessful job. I hope this is helpful to your situation. Good luck.

[RedRooster]

The glass shop noticed the gap before they replaced it (after removing my duct tape of course!) and then they were able to seat the new windshield properly without the gap, but they said they really had to work at it. However by the time I drove the hour home it had already reopened. I will do some more investigation on the struts that you mention and I will also look into the butyl adhesive. Any recommendations? Thanks for the advice!

[CountryB]

Originally Posted by uscgretired

I just purchased a 2005 itaska suncruiser by the time we got it home from arizona we found both windshields are loose and leaking. Further inspection the metal header is rusted and the seal is loose.I am having trouble with the dealer to repair this problem. Could use some help in getting this problem resolved. Thanks

I expect you bought the coach "As-Is".
Unless you found the problem on the lot and noted it on the sales receipt that dealer would fix it, I think you are going to end up paying the full cost of this repair.

Do you have kind of warranty paperwork. Some states allow you to cancel a major purchase within a couple of days of the purchase. https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/article...-rule-may-help

[Chargerman]

To only way to possibly succeed in a long term fix to this is to remove the windshield again. Then remove the seal and thoroughly clean it. Have to be sure to remove any remnants of silicone and other adhesives. Finish the cleaning with alcohol. Do the same to the cap. Cleanliness is most important. Then, using urethane adhesive that is used for windshield installations, install the seal onto the cap. Let it sit overnight then install the windshield into the seal without using urethane. Any other “bandaid” approach will be very short lived.

Good luck!

[Pirate]

Originally Posted by RedRooster

Well this seems to be a common problem for many. I just had a new windshield put in today but the problem persists. I have a gap at the top corner passenger side. I'm assuming there must have been some flex or roof damage with the last owner because I can see a bead of silicon that had been applied before.

So here's my plan, please tell me if you think I'm crazy: I've lightly sanded and prepped the area, masked it off, I am going to pack the void with backer rod and then use flex seal over that to basically bond the rubber gasket with the body.

Do you guys think that'll work?

I just had the same problem repaired. Me thinks your installer does not know RV windshields. The gap you are seeing is because the windshields have shifted in the opening. They will need to unzip the rubber gasket and get the windshields centered. Filling that gap is just going to cause major issues. Primarily, the windshield can start moving around too much and cause a crack, which happened to mine. My repairman had me stand back and look at the windshield. I could see how it shifted to the driver side by about 1.5 inches only after he showed me how to look at it. He loosened the gasket and manhandled the windshield back to center and is now resealing under the gaskets with urethane.

[Pirate]

Originally Posted by Chargerman

To only way to possibly succeed in a long term fix to this is to remove the windshield again. Then remove the seal and thoroughly clean it. Have to be sure to remove any remnants of silicone and other adhesives. Finish the cleaning with alcohol. Do the same to the cap. Cleanliness is most important. Then, using urethane adhesive that is used for windshield installations, install the seal onto the cap. Let it sit overnight then install the windshield into the seal without using urethane. Any other “bandaid” approach will be very short lived.

Good luck!

That is kind of how they fixed mine but did not urethane the seal onto the cap until after they had it all centered. They pulled back the seal and put the urethane in. They also put urethane between the glass and seal after the glass was in place as another water barrier. It was obvious the seal was not urethaned in as you mentioned but as my installer did it. Factory just didn't use as much urethane as they should have used. This guy has done several RV windshields and came highly recommended from Duncan.

[Chargerman]

At the factory many coach builders did not use any urethane. My Monaco was one of them. My windshield had been replaced sometime before I purchased it and there was a lot of wind noise and a small gap at both lower corners between the gasket and the cap. I would push it out to cover but it wouldn’t last long. I replaced the windshield and gasket and installed as mentioned above what a difference.

[BruceNeu]

My windshield leaks water on the driver's side while parked in heavy/consistent rain.
The local mobile auto glass company here where I'm staying says that he has the tools and knowledge to remove it and reseal with urethane. Any thoughts or experiences because I'm concerned that it might break during the process.
Also, would insurance cover something like this?

[Chargerman]

There is always a risk of it breaking when removing it but the chances are low that it will break. I wouldn’t let them do it in the sun unless it’s first thing in the morning or late in the day. Not sure about the insurance coverage. Most likely they won’t cover it unless it was broken.

[Sugardog]

Found some even better tape, TRex, not cheap, but stands to weather much better than Duck or Gorilla tape. I change out tape every two years and no leaks. As for the glue removal, tied everything including acetone and flapper wheels on the last Gorilla tape removal. Turns out gasoline does the trick, be careful to get as little as possible on the black windshield sealer. Next year I’ll throw the black rubber trim piece away, fill evenly between the glass and Fiberglas cap and cover with the TRex tape, less problem with compound corners. Hope this helps.

[arboldt]

Originally Posted by HHIDan

Use black Gorilla duct tape until you get to the shop. Your windshields may have to be removed and re installed.

That's what we did and it worked well!

A couple weeks ago we had quite a down-incline with a sharp turn to get to a CG. The passenger windshield popped out an inch. We noticed it when we left - it sounded like a window open, then DW saw sky from around the window. We checked with one glass company, and they didn't have the equipment to fix it. He suggested Gorilla Tape until we got to a city where we did have it fixed. Gorilla tape sealed it well and held it in place.

[Domo]

Classic Winnie problem. Metal around windshield has rusted away. You can try taping it with Gorilla tape to get home.

Need to pull both windshields, cut out rotted metal and replace it, then remount windshields and gaskets.

[SarahW]

This thread is 5 years old; I hope he got it fixed before now.

[Sugardog]

Yep, new tape every two years, no leaks since.