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Old 10-25-2018, 11:52 AM   #29
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The good news is, that even with old threads - others that search for similar topics can learn what to look for and how to fix issues. The OP is just one of many searching for answers.
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:28 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by RedRooster View Post
Well this seems to be a common problem for many. I just had a new windshield put in today but the problem persists. I have a gap at the top corner passenger side. I'm assuming there must have been some flex or roof damage with the last owner because I can see a bead of silicon that had been applied before.



So here's my plan, please tell me if you think I'm crazy: I've lightly sanded and prepped the area, masked it off, I am going to pack the void with backer rod and then use flex seal over that to basically bond the rubber gasket with the body.



Do you guys think that'll work?


I’ve had poor results with flex seal
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:31 PM   #31
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Classic Winnie problem. Metal around windshield has rusted away. You can try taping it with Gorilla tape to get home.



Need to pull both windshields, cut out rotted metal and replace it, then remount windshields and gaskets.


Ouch, mine wasn’t that bad. Some grinding and rustoleum.
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Old 11-24-2018, 05:34 PM   #32
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Ive also had the roof blow partially off. The more I learn about WB, the more I more I consider them junk. Then again my friend with his 300k Tiffin is even worse off.
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Old 11-24-2018, 06:44 PM   #33
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Take a look at Den Braven products..

https://www.denbraven.com/en/product...from_root=true

This stuff is amazing.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:56 AM   #34
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Winshield Leak What I Did

I bought a 1993 Winnebago Elante with the usual Winnebago water/rust/seal problem around the windshield, especially bad around the plenum. Biggest problem was that the previous owner did a half-way fixit and I was missing a good amount if weatherstip. I cleaned up the area as best I could and applied a bead of caulk (don't use a silicone caulk, use an automotive grade window caulk or maybe a polyester based caulk). Let it dry and taped it off with painter's tape and then applied several coats of Flex-Seal and its been good so far. No leaks, no flexing, and no $2000 replacement bill.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:01 AM   #35
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Coming from the boat building industry, I’m a big fan of 3M products, if you don’t plan on disassembly. 5200 marine sealer for places out of the sun, 4000 if you need UV protection.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:25 AM   #36
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Surprised that not more folks mention Eternabond tape. The stuff is very durable and more than just a temporary fix. My neighbor used it to seal his Itasca windshield leaks and it's held up for years.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:36 AM   #37
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WB recommends against it, if you believe them.
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