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Old 06-15-2013, 03:47 PM   #1
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Clearance lights leaking?

I'm pretty sure that my clearance lights are leaking on my front cap. Only seams to leak during the hardest downpours. I can't really locate where it might be getting in, so I'm thinking of just replacing all of them. Anyone have some first hand experience and any advice for stoping this leak.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:03 PM   #2
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Clearance lights are a common source of leakage for many Class A's. Even if the seal around them looks good they develop cracks in the lenses which let water seep in. We replaced all of ours, front and rear, last year and the leaks have stopped.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:02 PM   #3
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If you have a new Entegra and take it to the factory for leaks they will coat all lights with GOBS of silicone.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #4
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I experienced leaking lens on clearance lights. It took me a while to find out where water was coming from that rotted out the LF corner of our 5er. I eliminated the possibility of re-occurrence by drilling a 1/16" hole in the bottom side of each lens, but still checked them twice a year for dirt clogging this drain hole.
The tip-off for leaking lens is a water mark even with the wiring hole in the base.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:17 PM   #5
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You don't necessarily need to replace them unless they're really bad or fall apart as you remove them.

I've sealed several for friends who claim constant leaks. First, clean away the old silicone and remove the light. If it's still good, fill the hole that houses the wiring (fiberglass cap) with silicone. This may take a large glop. Then make a bead of silicone on the fiberglass just smaller than the light frame. Screw the light back on and place a small bead of silicone around the entire light where it meets the fiberglass. Put the cover back on the light and lightly put a layer of silicone over the seam where the lens contacts the frame. Usually this is only necessary on the top of the lens.

Wet you finger to spread the silicone and wipe away excess to make the lights look nice. They'll NEVER leak again.
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:11 AM   #6
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If you have any of those "rubber ducky" antennas on your roof, make sure they're screwed all the way into the base. The base on those antennas is a cup that will catch water and leak into the roof. I have cured 2 different leaks on 2 different motor homes by simply screwing the antennas all the way in. They work loose occasionally.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:35 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. I will see what happens when I pull on off. Then try sealing all of them.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:35 PM   #8
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I love this site

#1 I am having the same problem on the 82 Pace Arrow.

#2 I never new that a wet finger will prevent silicone from sticking to the finger
I learned a few things today.

Thank, every one,
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:33 PM   #9
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Through the years I have determined silicone is the last product I will use on my RV. It does not adhere well over time, and when you remove the majority it leaves a stubborn film that is very difficult to completely remove unless you buy the specific spray product for that purpose. Little else will adhere to that film.
For demonstrations purposes, get hold of one end of a bead of silicone and pull outward; if it has been there for a few years it will come off the gelcoat in a long strip/bead. Dicor non-sag sealant is what I've used on vertical surfaces ever since I made that decision. Yes it is more expensive, however_you get what you pay for.

P.S. The wet finger trick works with any caulk/sealant. I use a plastic spoon, the rounded tip leaves a smooth even surface, and you merely wipe it off with a rag as it gets full. To make an even caulk joint, mask each side with blue painters tape, leaving your preferred space for the joint width. When the caulk is tacky remove the tape. This eliminates the messy joints left by attempting to smooth out the joint.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:05 AM   #10
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All 10 of the running lights on the top of the front and rear of my coach came sealed from the factory...can't tell what the sealant is.
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