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VSPA · 10-20-2017, 10:57 AM

It doesn't disconnect when turned to the off position and the green power on indicator light stays on and there is alway power on in the coach. As a temporary remedy, I disconnected the primary ground to the coach batteries to shut off the power. Anybody got any ideas. I took the electrical panel off and it has four or five yellow wires and one white wire on the back side of the switch. Unit is a 2013/14 Itasca 35F

Hufficon · 10-20-2017, 11:39 AM

I am assuming that the coach is not plugged in to shore power. I would check the battery disconnect solenoid to make sure it is not hung up in the activated position. Then wove on to the wiring at the switch and the switch operation with a VOM.
If it worked previously and nothing has been done to the wiring I would concentrate on stuck contacts in the switch or solenoid. If it is plugged in to shore power it will power through the converter and the switch will not turn anything off. Also if plugged in to shore power you won't want the batteries disconnected anyway so they will maintain charge. It shouldn't overcharge on a newer coach but will go into maintenance charge mode at the converter.

VSPA · 10-20-2017, 04:42 PM

Thanks for the reply. The RV was unplugged from shore power when I noticed that the shut off switch was not working. I'd just had it in the shop because both coach batteries died of what appeared to be shorts in the plates or were overcharging . Both coach batteries boiled over when RV was running or charger was hooked up. The batteries seem to be ok at this time, but I've not had them on extended run time or on the charger for an extended time. This problem is recent, no one has worked on the electrical since I bought it other than when I change the batteries, so their claim that the wiring was incorrect does not wash. What I saw of the "corrected wiring" was identical to what it was before I disconnected the coach batteries. Beginning to feel that I'm being taken to the cleaners.

70ChevelleSS · 10-20-2017, 05:05 PM

First, as mentioned, the disconnect solenoid may be hung up. You should be able hear it click/snap when connecting/disconnecting. If you do then the switch is probably okay. So hit the disconnect switch and meter across the disconnect solenoid. I suspect you'll see 12v on both sides. It's hard to describe but it's spring loaded inside, a mag coil and 2 swing arms. Anyway it can get hung up in the latched state or fail to latch.

Second, batteries boiling. Have you left it plugged in since changing batteries? Do the new batteries boil as well? If the one of the old batteries had a shorted cell the converter would keep trying to bring them up to full charge, which won't ever happen. So it may be that you just had a bad battery. Of course the converter could have failed and is over charging.

VSPA · 10-20-2017, 05:39 PM

Just an added note, I once had a 70 Chevelle SS while stationed in S.C. Green with darker green vinyl top and black hood stripes. Loved it, but traded it for a new car with AC due to birth of a child, but regretted it immediately. Should have had AC installed.

I'm not hearing a click when I turn the switch to the off position like I do when shutting off the chassis battery, and after putting out $250 for new batteries and $350 for labor on the battery problem, I'm disconnecting the negative when shutting down.

Grandparacer · 10-21-2017, 12:01 AM

That disconnect relay can fail in both positions ON or Off. Mine failed Off, I found an exact replacement on eBay. About $60.

Arch Hoagland · 10-21-2017, 12:26 AM

Works every time:

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20108.../dp/B002OWFLC4

VSPA · 10-21-2017, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

Works every time:

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20108.../dp/B002OWFLC4

With it's simplicity I'm truly giving that some serious thought. As is, I'm taking the ground off

70ChevelleSS · 10-21-2017, 06:42 AM

Since you don't hear a click when disconnecting the battery I would make sure the switch is working before replacing the solenoid. Meter across the 2 smaller leads and have a helper push the switch to connect the batteries. You should meter either +12v or -12v, doesn't matter which. Now have helper press switch to disconnect batteries. You should read the opposite voltage across the 2 leads. That is if you metered +12v when connecting batteries you should now read -12v. No voltage when disconnecting then it's either the switch or wiring. Since it works when connecting batteries I would suspect it's the switch. Probably a momentary double pole double throw switch.

It's just a electric coil magnet in the solenoid. So if you hear an audible click when connecting you should also hear it when disconnecting. Since you don't that kind of eliminates the solenoid as the problem. But with a meter you can verify that.

VSPA · 10-21-2017, 08:09 AM

The one where I hear the click is the Chassis battery when switched on or off. I don't hear a click when toggling the Coach battery switch, but the green "power on" light stays in until I drop the negative for those batteries. As the RV is in storage currently, I'll try to bring it to the house and see if I can locate the solenoid and take a picture of the back on the on/off switch.

VSPA · 10-23-2017, 03:15 PM

Thanks to all that provide input on this problem. Combined, I've learned quite a bit. Four hours of work, and I'm cheap labor and a .25 cent part which fortunately I had on hand compared to $125 to 150 per hour that the RV repair place charges, I finally, by complete accident, solved the problem. I took apart the switch panel again, finally traced down the location of the solenoid by listening to the click of the chassis solenoid, removed the 12v pop in and out fuse panel and found that there are two solenoids. Spent a couple of hours dropping a voltmeter across terminals. Finally gave up and conceded that it was above my level and it was off to the RV shop again. While stuffing the wiring solenoid harness back into the compartment, it became a "what's this?" moment. Buried in the harness and for the most part out of view I spotted two inline fuses. Traced them back, one going to the Chassis solenoid and the other to the coach solenoid. The one for the Coach was burned out. Problem solved, replaced the fuse and as soon as I hit the power switch in the coach, I heard that needed "CLICK" to indicate that it disengaged and another as it reengaged. I'm still giving consideration to a manual disconnect for longer term storage for both, chassis and coach batteries. Thanks again.

Grandparacer · 10-23-2017, 11:46 PM

I fixed mine with the same 5 amp fuse... for a day. Then it blew again and again and then the relay stuck permanently in the off position. Had to replace the relay.
John

Arch Hoagland · 10-23-2017, 11:56 PM

Thanks for the update!!

VSPA · 10-24-2017, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandparacer

I fixed mine with the same 5 amp fuse... for a day. Then it blew again and again and then the relay stuck permanently in the off position. Had to replace the relay. John

Thanks, I will keep that in mind and should it occur again, I'll do the same.