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05-09-2015, 02:52 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramets
I don't think it's a safe activity to be doing while going down the road. Mine only rocks and rolls while we're parked.
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Ok, I'll say it if no one else will... that was funny
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05-09-2015, 06:56 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 4
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay
Dectanner,
You did not tell us your chassis. Your chassis is 12 years old. The first thing I'd do is replace all front and rear sway bar bushing with blue poly ones. If it road OK before that's a good place to start. Even if they are not worn (but with 12 years on the chassis I'm sure they are) changing to a poly bushing is the absolute must to do. Then drive it and report the difference.
Once that's done let us know and we'll go from there. Those bushings are available through these forums. Just google right her at the top of the page, "Sway bar bushing replacements."
TeJay
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Will do. The motor home sits on a Ford Chasis. We have had a general look at the sway bar on front and it looks fine. Everything else looks good under neath. BUT, I don't see any away bars on back. Can you help me. Where would they be located on a Georgetown? Or all the Chasis the same? Are they near the rear shocks? I am having someone look at it next but was surprised at how many RV and Ford truck garages did not knowing about the sway bars???
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05-09-2015, 07:30 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 818
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If this was a gradual change initially from running fine to an unacceptable rocking and rolling, then the assumption that it was "just the shocks" is wrong and it is most probably a number of wear related problems that need attention. It would be best to find a good suspension shop that can look into this and data mine the posts here for solutions, including the sway bars, as well as the springs and the rest of the suspension. It is likely not to be one single magic bullet that fixes the whole issue, but an overall suspension overhaul and upgrade. A 10+ year old coach has alot of years and miles (or not) under it's belt and needs tender loving care.
__________________
2017 WGO Fuse
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05-09-2015, 09:28 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,303
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Denctanner,
If you have not already done so check out the "CHF" thread on the F-53 forums. There are a lot of pictures that you can look at. You can also google Ford F-53 chassis and also probably see a lot of pictures.
The Chassis (and most any other gasser chassis) came out with sway bars, or more correctly Anti-Swat Bars. We usually just shorten it to SB.
With a 2003 MH (2002 chassis) you will have a front and rear SB set up. The bar follows along the same path as the front axle and the rear axle and differential assembly.
It matters not when the R/H (ride & handling) deteriorated in your opinion. If it is rocking and rolling and you don't like it then check the many topics listed on this F-53 chassis forum. There's a ton of stuff. I know because you'll see my name on a lot of them.
I'll try to make this short. When trying to solve any mechanical issue it's ALWAYS best to start at the beginning and with the cheapest fixes first. It matters not if something was looked at by a mechanic you can't always believe what you've been told just because you paid somebody to tell you whats wrong. There are good and bad out there. If you accept what somebody said and they are wrong then you'll spend $$$$ that you shouldn't have to.
IIf you have, "Real deep pockets" and you know what I mean then pay somebody to diagnose and work on your coach. If you are like most of us you don't so if you don't work on your MH it's time to start. You need to learn what to look for.
1. Check your tire pressures on all 6 tires first. High and low pressures can contribute to these issues. Get them set. I run 82 fronts and 86 rears.
2. Find front and rear SB's and check the rubber bushing surrounding the bars as they attach to the differential in the rear and the front axle. I've already mentioned to you that with it being 12 years old they need replacing and with the blue poly bushings. Get that done and drive it.
3. Make sure that the metal links and rubber bushings attaching the SB's to the frame are good. If they are worn they need replaced.
Get that stuff done and contact us again. If you want to PM (private message) me I'll give you my home e-mail and we can converse easier that way. If you need to call me I'll give you my phone #.
Just take this stuff one step at a time. Study these forums and get as much information as you can. You'll benefit from it in the long run.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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05-09-2015, 11:15 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Anacortes, Wa
Posts: 264
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Denctanner- How many miles on your motorhome?
__________________
2006 American Eagle 40L, Cat C9
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (Last of the LJ's)
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05-09-2015, 11:59 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Common motor home handling issues
Sway (Side to side rocking like fans at a rock concert holding up their BICs)
SWAY bar... One was installed by the chassis maker but unless their chassis is used EXCLUSIVELY for motor homes it is likely too light weight.. You can get better ones and bolt them on.
WAG. Leaf spring suspension with solid front axle allows the body to move slightly side to side over the axle.. If the front moves left while the rear moves right, or the other way around, YOU think you ware not straight..So you adjust,, Then the ends swap and now you over adjust the other way.. TRAC BARS stop this dead. 100% absolute control.. NOTE independent front suspension fixes that end if you got it, and STRUT suspension includes trac bars
Finally we have steering stablizers.. These try to assist you in keeping on the straight and narrow.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
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05-09-2015, 08:41 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 313
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As a betting man with a lot of unintended mechanical learning and experience the biggest point you made was that it used to be well handling/behaved. It's bad bushings (not necessarily obvious to your eyes) or sway bar itself. Top shelf bushings would be a smart move in any case. (put them on my brand new coach (F53) as soon as I had a chance.) If you have no clue who could do it check with a local truck tire outfit like GCR.
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05-09-2015, 09:07 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Altoona, Iowa
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denctanner
Will do. The motor home sits on a Ford Chasis. We have had a general look at the sway bar on front and it looks fine. Everything else looks good under neath. BUT, I don't see any away bars on back. Can you help me. Where would they be located on a Georgetown? Or all the Chasis the same? Are they near the rear shocks? I am having someone look at it next but was surprised at how many RV and Ford truck garages did not knowing about the sway bars???
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Here's a pic of the rear anti-sway bar on a 2011 Ford F53 chassis. Yours may be different. On mine it's the black round bar that is a little over an inch in diameter and goes around and under and in front of the differential.
__________________
2010 Itasca Sunova 33C, (lots of upgrades and modifications)
2011 Honda CRV, 2004 Rubicon (many modifications)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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05-16-2015, 09:33 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Central Florida..
Posts: 238
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I owned a Georgetown they do tend to sway a bit... Especially above 65.. You could try what is referred to as "the cheap Handling Fix" ( look it up on the Internet and on the Forest River Forum) I believe it involves moving the sway bar to its second position.. All that have done it swear it works wonders... Me I just keep it at 60-65.. Good luck
__________________
2004 Mountain Aire 4018
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