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Old 05-04-2020, 11:59 PM   #1
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Compartment Flooring Rot

We have a 2018 Thor Aria. Just having traveled through a serious rain storm, we were surprised to find the floor of our storage compartments completely rotted out! To the point where I almost left some items on the highway. I'm glad I caught it, but am not happy.
Any suggestions? Do you have a custom base? It seems as if they forgot to put a protective shield. The "flooring" is (was) about 1/8" thick not water resistant material. Now there is a big hole.
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Old 05-05-2020, 09:32 AM   #2
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You are saying the the flooring for the outside storage bays are made of wood something? I had a 2017 Thor ACE and the storage bays were a high quality heavy duty plastic of some sort. You unit should be at least that quality.

Anyway if the bays are removable contact Thor and try and get new ones. If the bay floors are flat you might think about fiberglassing the bottom. This would be something you could do yourself.

Have you asked the folks on the Thor forum for their thoughts?
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Old 05-05-2020, 09:19 PM   #3
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You will find a lot of info on this on Thorforums.com
Thor may or may not help you with this even after warranty. It is a known issue. Sorry this happened to you.
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Old 05-05-2020, 11:41 PM   #4
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Thank you be-happy. One of the 4 bays has the plastic - the others, including the bay w/the water tank, does not. I have someone coming to our campsite to make sure I don't drop the water tank on the 1,200 trek home. I've gotten plywood to get me home. Unfortunately, the RV has been at Thor 3 times now and I go home with more issues than what I sent.
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Old 05-06-2020, 11:21 AM   #5
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I just completed my water bay retrofit yesterday and I’m completely satisfied with the results. I started of course by ripping out the rotted portion (Not All) which was about half the bay right up to the the fresh water tank. I then glued two 1/2” plywood pieces together and then rolled “Flex Seal” on both sides and on the edges to completely seal the plywood. I then purchased a 24”x48” sheet of diamond plate from Amazon $40 & cut it 18” which left 6” to squeeze underneath the water bay to give it the appearance that it was installed in one piece & then butted the 18” right up to the edge of the 6” piece. The reason I did this was because I couldn’t get the entire one piece into place without cutting it down.

I purchased some diamond plate vinyl wrap film I plan on installing on the plastic covers & will post those as soon as the film arrives from Amazon. But until then here are some pics I hope you are able to view.
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Old 05-14-2020, 10:45 PM   #6
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Bodean56....i like that idea....4 of my under storage co.partments are rotted..gonna remove the bad metal but wasn't sure which route to go..get thin sheet metal and rivet it in..or get some plywood and seal it...i also seen a video on YouTube and a guy build a box frame work from angle iron with the holes in it like what you would use for a garage door opener and bolt the plywood to the frame. Just wasn't sure how to protect the wood..undercoa
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Old 05-15-2020, 06:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAVE33RQ View Post
Bodean56....i like that idea....4 of my under storage co.partments are rotted..gonna remove the bad metal but wasn't sure which route to go..get thin sheet metal and rivet it in..or get some plywood and seal it...i also seen a video on YouTube and a guy build a box frame work from angle iron with the holes in it like what you would use for a garage door opener and bolt the plywood to the frame. Just wasn't sure how to protect the wood..undercoa
You can coat wood with 2 part epoxy or polyester resin used for fiberglass. I have heard that guys building cedar strip canoes do the first coat without the catalyst so it allows the resin to really soak into the wood ( dont know if they thin it with acetone or not). Then a couple coats with catalyst which will "set off" the cure of the first coat and tie them together well.
The other choice would be to look at POR15 used for metal but I believe it is ok on wood (check online). I just used it for the first time for a batty tray refurb and was very impressed with the product and it has great reviews.
The 3rd choice or used in combo with above would be a very light gauge alum sheet as the bottom layer with plywood on top. That way it's a perfect weather seal and no damage if stones etc get thrown up.
The key would be to do a good job of dealing plywood edges and sealing the replacement into the existing frame.
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Old 05-15-2020, 08:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAVE33RQ View Post
Bodean56....i like that idea....4 of my under storage co.partments are rotted..gonna remove the bad metal but wasn't sure which route to go..get thin sheet metal and rivet it in..or get some plywood and seal it...i also seen a video on YouTube and a guy build a box frame work from angle iron with the holes in it like what you would use for a garage door opener and bolt the plywood to the frame. Just wasn't sure how to protect the wood..undercoa
If you are going to put the metal on top of the wood make sure you get a good seal between the two if you don't the metal will sweat on the bottom
and rot the new plywood real quick.
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Old 05-17-2020, 05:08 PM   #9
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Use pressure treated plywood, seal all edges and cuts.
It pays to apply a couple of coats of exterior paint to protect everything for the long haul.
That diamond plate work looks super!!!
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Old 05-17-2020, 07:49 PM   #10
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This is a trick I learned from 35 years of running saltwater boats offshore out of San Diego...

Smith's Penetrating epoxy...

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer


I've used it to seal rotten wood, but I have also used it to seal almost any wood (other than teak) that will be used in the marine environment, and potentially exposed to seawater...

Whenever I would cut a hole in the deck of my boat, I would use Smith's to seal the core around the hole, between the fiberglass layers, and then followup with an epoxy filler to make the hole nice and round... I've never had any core rot from a hole I've made...

I've used it for other projects to weatherproof wood... and I always use a coat of paint over it... I believe Smith's is vulnerable to UV...

I needed to make a wood base/mount for a 120 gallon bait tank. Once the tank would be installed, it would be a chore to inspect or replace the wood base.. I gave the wood 3 or 4 coats of Smith's... when I was done, it looked and felt like a piece of fiberglass.... ! Ten years later, I had to remove the tank for an unrelated repair... that wood base/mount was like the day I installed it..

Just another tool, if you want something to seal wood....
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