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Old 09-29-2020, 01:34 AM   #15
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If you have a air fitting up front, that female coupler can get rusty and stick. This air line is connected to your front tank... the one giving you problems. So you might just need to squirt it with WD40 while inserting and removing the air fitting.

Next you might find the gang connector that feeds your air horn maybe leaking. So just squirt it with Windex and see if any air bubble show themselves?

And if you put your RV on Jacks and then start your motor (or keep it running) you can crawl around safe enough... to squirt your air bags... in the front, since that's where you report you concerns, but first...

...Take your awning pull hook and reach over your passenger tire to pull on your lanyards to purge your tanks. This will give you leverage and if you have your tires turned to the "left" you will have more access. Some times these purge-valves get dirty and stick open. So squirt some WD on them when you are crawling around underneath.

Other tips:

* Slide your generator out too for more visibility and light.

* If you need more crawl space under your coach, you can run your tires up on your leveling blocks, but be warned you will need a 4" wood block for your jack-pads to lift the coach.

HOW TO MAKE JACK-LIFT-BLOCKS

My HWH Jacks do not elevate the coach that much. This is so you can't OVER TORQUE your "big box". Therefore, I sometimes use a Jack-Lift-Block I made, and which I place under the Jack-Pad for extra lift.

Just pick up a piece of 8 foot 2x12 lumber; and cut it into squares at HD where they will not charge you for the cuts.

Then screws 2 blocks together; and attach a drawer handle to one end so you can carry it easily; and add ~4' of rope, which you will use to pull the jack-lift-block out from under the coach without crawling back under your coach.

Once you get under your coach you will find other maintenance you can do. Like wire brushing the rust... which can easily be addressed with Rustoleum's Rust Reformer Paint... and in no time things will look "good as new!"
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:24 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by red300zx View Post
Napa auto parts handle the about 20 bucks each
Whats 20$?
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:27 PM   #17
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squirt it with WD40 while inserting and removing the air fitting.

"
The original WD40 dries to a sticky gummy film, it is NOT a lubricant.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:13 AM   #18
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The original WD40 dries to a sticky gummy film, it is NOT a lubricant.
That is correct. WD-40 stands for water displacement formula 40.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:32 AM   #19
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Da. WD40 is not a lubricant and it does not attract dirt. That's why HWH recommends using it on your jack cylinders.

Why do you point this out?

What I am saying is that it can free-up a stuck air coupler. Do you'all find excepting to that?
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Old 09-30-2020, 06:29 AM   #20
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Op says he hears a "woosh" and bags dump. That doesn't sound like a leak to me. Sounds like a dump of the air. That said, I don't know exactly how those dump valves work but that is where I would focus my attention. If the air bags fill back up, it doesn't sound like the valve is sticking. Whatever mechanical device dumps the bags is where I would look. Solenoid? I'm willing to bet when this is all said and done, OP will know his system pretty good and he can share his findings.
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Old 09-30-2020, 03:03 PM   #21
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Another point: air "dump" valves are typically added to the air suspension as part of the jacks (leveling) system, which is installed by the coach builder, not FTL or Spartan. Dumping is done to lower the chassis before leveling and not all coaches are equipped to do that. The chassis maker probably can't help with an air dump problem.



The ride height valves don't "dump"- their purpose is to maintain the chassis as a steady height above the axles. They don't suddenly "whoosh" unless there is an outright valve failure, in which case they probably won't ever re-inflate until repaired or replaced. I doubt if they are involved in this problem, but it doesn't hurt to verify that.
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