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Old 01-18-2017, 03:06 PM   #1
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Connecting trailer 120v to Motorhome generator

Sorry if this has been addressed, but despite numerous searches I couldn't get on the right track.

I have a 7.5 KW QuietDiesel generator in my 2002 Fleetwood Discovery DP. I am considering the purchase of an enclosed trailer that has a 120v system. The trailer has two 120v input connections - a 30amp and another smaller one.

What would I need to do to hook up the trailer so it can run off my generator? I'm not at the coach, but I don't recall seeing an outlet on the generator or in the electrical bay (other than some regular outlets in a couple of my storage compartments).

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Old 01-18-2017, 03:19 PM   #2
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Assuming the trailer has a connector for a 30 Amp and a 20 Amp shore cord you can simply plug an extension cord into any outlet and the 20 Amp male pin connector. If you have something else post a picture.

How much you want to bother with connections depends mostly on what you are running in the trailer. If it's lights it's not an issue. If you are escalating into power equipment then you need to consider the power draw.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:19 PM   #3
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Probably no 30 amp outlet from the generator, there might be a standard 15 amp one someplace but you will need to check to see if it's live when on the generator.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:23 PM   #4
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If the breaker panel on your MH has an unused slot, just pop in a single 30 amp breaker and run 10 gauge romex to a convenient spot (Electrical bay would be good) and fit a 120 volt 30 amp outlet.

This is the outlet you need:
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:27 PM   #5
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What I did (And why)

IN installed an additional pair of 30 amp breakers in my Main Power Panel, I ran heavy wire (I would suggest at least 8 GA though I used 10) from there to a box in one of the weather protected bays.

IN that box is a 30 amp TWIST LOCK which came in real handy when Detroit Edison fell down on the job at my Sticks and Bricks (you see there was a matching INLET on the back of the house, and a PROPERLY designed and installed Generator Transfer Panel with watt meters in the basement, and a big long custom made 8GA cord....)

Worked great.

Well, to finish this.. Since I had the box. and the wires. I also put a pair of Female TT-30 Pigtalis .... and that's the answer to your question.

Pick a leg, add a 30 amp breaker, I'd run 8GA romex to a junction box in a weather protected area. and a Female TT-30 to the trailer from there.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:30 PM   #6
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Depends how much current you want to be able to pull out of the generator for the trailer.

If you want up to 20amps 120vac, most coaches have an outlet in one or two of the bays. I have an outlet in my electrical bay, one on PS storage, and another one on DS storage that the vacuum uses. Simply plug into that. If your trailer has a 30 amp cord, then use an adapter similar to what you would use in campground to connect to 20amp socket. Max current in this setup, 20amps.

If you want more current, then for most coaches you'll need to put in a socket, and if I were going to do that I would do it in my electrical bay where my transfer switch is. I have both the generator and shorepower as input to that switch, and the output goes to the coach breaker box. I could connect into the transfer switch output, and put in a 50amp female socket or 30 amp socket, depending upon what you wanted.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:40 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by bluepill View Post
If the breaker panel on your MH has an unused slot, just pop in a single 30 amp breaker and run 10 gauge romex to a convenient spot (Electrical bay would be good) and fit a 120 volt 30 amp outlet
I have the 50amp Smart EMS board that monitors my 120v usage. Would that automatically compensate for the new breaker or would it need to be re-programmed somehow?

The trailer has an RV roof air conditioner but I assumed I wouldn't have the juice to run that seeing as if it was that hot, both coach airs would already be running on the generator. Mostly I would be using lights and battery chargers, maybe a small drill.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:43 PM   #8
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Here are the trailer sockets (sorry if the image is huge):

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Old 01-18-2017, 04:30 PM   #9
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On our Windsor I added a covered outdoor 110v 20a outlet mounted to the side of trailer hitch steel support. I wired it into the engine bay outlet above it and used flexible electrical conduit to protect the wire. I could have just used the existing outlet in the engine bay (normally used for the block heater), but then would have to open the engine bay door each time and that is not easy when the trailer is connected.

On our Executive I added a covered outdoor 110v 30a outlet (twist lock similar to the one on the left in your picture) mounted to the side of the trailer hitch steel support. This was more work to wire.The coach already had a 30a breaker box in the rear bath for the dryer.I ran special outdoor multi-strand (more flexible) 10-3 wire from the dryer breaker box through the floor and back to the trailer hitch area.I enclosed it in flexible conduit also.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:03 AM   #10
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Given your sockets you can put up to 20 Amps through the smaller one with a heavy duty extension cord plugged into an outlet in your MH or into the pedestal in a campground. Probably can run the A/C if the MH is not running a lot of other stuff. Battery charger and small drill should not be an issue. Turn off the A/C if you want something bigger for a short time.
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