Continuing Electrical / Battery issues

[tmas]

I've been having issues with my new(ish) 2020 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. Here is the chronicle and current issue:

Feb 2021 - no power to coach / solar panels not working. Took to dealership, 200 amp main fuse was open. Replaced. 30 amp solar fuse was open. Replaced solar charge controller.

June 2021 - no battery power to coach or chassis. Took to dealership. Replaced all 6 batters (4 coach, 2 chassis)

Now -
1. Chassis batteries dead. 0 volts on the coach controller center display. Once the engine is started off coach batteries or while running generator, dashboard displays 13.5 - 14V
2. Coach battery holding 12.5v even after being plugged into shore power for 48 hours. Coach batteries were holding 13v+ when first installed
3. Solar controller is showing as high as 28v on first line. I don't know if this is any issue.

Before I take to back to the dealership (that I have very little confidence in) I want to figure out the issues so I can tell them versus having them "troubleshoot", i.e. fix one thing and then get me out the door.

Thanks!

[tmas]

Pics

[Latech]

28 volts on the solar sounds like an open circuit between controller and batteries.

That fact they replaced 6 batteries before tells me that may be why a 200 amp fuse was smoked. Since the coach battery shows dead, maybe the alternator is defective

ask them to give you a detailed outline of the diagnostic they will perform so you can get a grasp on what they are doing

Whatever they give you should at least make sense.Post it up here so we can have a look too

[wolfe10]

Verifying batteries and charging systems is NOT rocket science.


With a digital voltmeter this is within the capability of any shade tree mechanic. And, any place that sell batteries can load test your batteries for free (once fully charged). If wet cell, a battery hydrometer (under $10 at any auto parts house or box store) can also tell you the status of the batteries.



If you have a digital voltmeter and would like the "how to", let us know. Will likely take you less time than the drive time to the dealership.

[Argosy]

There are 24v (and higher) solar panels so 28v MIGHT be OK.

Both fuses blowing at the same time is strange, changing the charge controller because of a blown fuse makes me wonder why the fuse was there.

What did you do in June to get it started to get to the dealer? How long since it was last used, had it been plugged in during that time?

How long to get to the dealer, did you happen to see voltages of either bank when you got there? Changing ~18 month old batteries, along with the charge controller, makes me wonder.

[tmas]

I was able to jumper start the chassis batteries with a battery pack. Once running, then and now, the chassis batteries are fine.

The previous batteries would hold a charge for the weekend. Jump it on Friday, it will start on it’s own on Sunday

[THenne1713]

While 28v going INTO SOLAR CONTROLLER, maybe = fine (??) (Maybe not?), Should be 13.2-14.6vdc coming OUT of SOLAR CONTROLLER going to 12v Batteries?

[tmas]

I looked at the owners manual. The top line is the panels, bottom line is the battery. So it’s fine with 28v because the battery is 12.5v

Now the issue is what is draining my batteries.

The RV is stored with cut off switches turned off (salesman switch) and the inverter disconnected with a battery selector.

[Argosy]

There are "phantom loads" from devices that bypass the shutoff, batteries self discharge. Do you store it at home? It only takes an amp or two to keep the batteries charged if you can plug it in.

If the picture of the controller is recent and the panels are putting out 57 watts that should be sufficient. If BLK on the last line means bulk I'd charge the batteries. Bulk is the charging time when the batteries are "filled" from use, it should then change to float to maintain the charge. Keep an eye on the controller, if it stays in float they should stay charged.

You need to go thru your manuals and see if the house and chassis batteries are connected while charging. There are a few ways it's done, the fact it's done is what matters. If not you'll have to charge the chassis batteries or add a way to share charging power between the two sets.

[Roadmiester]

Parasitic loads will kill a battery in short order. The cut-off's and salesman switch, on mine anyway, do not totally disconnect the batteries. With my switches "off" there is a 5 amp parasitic load. I have to be plugged in at all times or the batteries will go dead. The only way to stop this on mine is to remove battery cables off the posts. Adding to the problem is 90% of the time in the shop despite telling them to keep it plugged in, they don't and the batteries drain down. Cummis's had my coach for an extended time, batteries left on and not plugged in. They almost completely destroyed the batteries by the time I got there to pick it up. Good luck.

Roadmiester
09 Dynasty

[THenne1713]

Blown 209a/30a fuses says someone ( at some time?) connected batteries backwards? Plus too much parasitic?

[tmas]

So I should leave it pulled in while in storage? All switches turned off? Inverter disconnected?

Is this ok even if it is going to sit there for a month or more?

[RV Driver]

Originally Posted by tmas

So I should leave it pulled in while in storage? All switches turned off? Inverter disconnected?

Is this ok even if it is going to sit there for a month or more?

You should plug it in while you’re in storage, and leave all the batteries connected. That’s why your batteries are going dead. The on-board charger will keep the batteries topped up.

Our coach is plugged in 24/7 when we’re home.

[tmas]

Originally Posted by RV Driver

You should plug it in while you’re in storage, and leave all the batteries connected. That’s why your batteries are going dead. The on-board charger will keep the batteries topped up.

Our coach is plugged in 24/7 when we’re home.

What about things like the fridge and A/C? Leave those on too?