Community Forums

THenne1713 · 10-11-2021, 10:58 PM

Re: << With my switches "off" there is a 5 amp parasitic load. I have to be plugged in at all times or the batteries will go dead.>>
I would find those LOAD wires on the Battery side of switch and MOVE them to the LOAD side of Switch? Smoke/ LP maybe? .. but even if old solenoid control (wud explain the 5a, solenoids are heavy draw), if it shut OFF LP, it WUD be a GOOD thing?

Argosy · 10-12-2021, 03:49 AM

I'm guessing your RV is 50 amp. Plugged into a 50 amp circuit you can use pretty much anything. 30 amp a single AC and frig, the charger to maintain. If you just want to maintain the batteries you can do that with a standard 15 amp outlet.

You do have to make sure there is a way the house and chassis batteries are tied together so all stay charged.

Kenrbass · 10-12-2021, 06:15 AM

If you want to test for a drain, the easy way is to remove the neg battery terminal and install a 12volt test light that has a bulb, in between the battery and the terminal you removed. If the test light, lights up, something is using battery current.
Anything that will light up the test light will kill the battery in storage. This applies to coach and house batteries the same.

tmas · 10-12-2021, 04:41 PM

Why don’t they install a complete battery disconnect?

I’ll start by leaving it plugged in. Hopefully that helps.

Thanks

Argosy · 10-12-2021, 05:44 PM

Better the battery dies than you

tmas · 10-17-2021, 03:53 PM

When I leave it plugged in should I turn anything off? Fridge. AC.

I’ll be plugged into 20 amps

Winemaker2 · 10-17-2021, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmas

When I leave it plugged in should I turn anything off? Fridge. AC.

I’ll be plugged into 20 amps

If the 20A is GFCI you will do well to do some experimenting and close monitoring as many MHs don't play well with GFCI.

Sent from my SM-T387V using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

THenne1713 · 10-17-2021, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmas

When I leave it plugged in should I turn anything off? Fridge. AC.

I’ll be plugged into 20 amps

Air is risky to run on 20a, if it kicks on while other loads on, it can overload, kick off, or worse, a loose plug/ receptacle can/ will melt. Lights, Refrigerator and charger should be fine. Better/ Best is converting any incandescents to LED (90% reduction in lighting power/ heat)

tmas · 12-06-2021, 07:15 PM

Update

I took it to Freightliner and they tested the battery. Let it sit for 24 hours and tested again. Said there was no voltage drop. $150 diagnostic fee.

I left it at storage plugged in for the last 4 weeks. When I went to pick it up today the coach battery was at 12.4v and the chassis battery was dead. I had to jump the chassis with the coach battery.

It is going to the RV store tomorrow for an awning issue. I’ll ask them to look at the battery but I have no confidence they find anything.

Grrrr…any suggestions would help!

Thanks.

RV Driver · 12-06-2021, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmas

Update

I took it to Freightliner and they tested the battery. Let it sit for 24 hours and tested again. Said there was no voltage drop...

If the battery was OK at Freightliner but not in the RV, it is NOT the battery! There is some kind of a problem in the charging system in your RV.

THenne1713 · 12-06-2021, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmas

Update

I took it to Freightliner and they tested the battery. Let it sit for 24 hours and tested again. Said there was no voltage drop. $150 diagnostic fee.

I left it at storage plugged in for the last 4 weeks. When I went to pick it up today the coach battery was at 12.4v and the chassis battery was dead. I had to jump the chassis with the coach battery.

It is going to the RV store tomorrow for an awning issue. I’ll ask them to look at the battery but I have no confidence they find anything.

Grrrr…any suggestions would help!

Thanks.

Plugged in, coach battery then disconnected and then allowing 30-minutes to dissipate high voltage (13.2-13.6vdc) from charger, should THEN have been 12.6-12.7 (95%-100%), so 12.4 (70%-80% charge) *** is concerning? Battery age? Test cells w/ hydrometer for failing cell? but I try to charge My chassis battery every 2-3-weeks, either by running engine 20-min or putting on BOOST for several hours. (This allows CONVERTER TO also CHARGE CHASSIS, but solenoid MUST be "Continuous Rated"). ***SLIGHT corrosion (that you may not even see until terminal removed from battery) at terminals, or cables/ crimps can STOP a battery from charging over about 70-75%. Good Luck... BTW, (TIP) if you had taken battery out to the auto parts store, most would test for FREE. The RV store/ shop will ALSO CHARGE YOU.

tropical36 · 12-07-2021, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmas

What about things like the fridge and A/C? Leave those on too?

Mine is for being out in the driveway. Well for setting the ac temp up and the fridge at a lower setting. All else like for the hot water, is off.

fatsurf · 12-07-2021, 06:40 PM

It almost sounds like your alternator has a leaking diode causing the chassis battery to discharge through the alternator. Most of the parasitic loads should be on the house battery.

Also on my motorhome if the battery switches are off the converter does not charge the batteries.

Hittntheroad · 12-07-2021, 07:02 PM

I installed a battery switch for my house batteries like we use on our boats. I can isolate either battery or connect both together or disconnect both completely.