Control board replacement -Sealand Magnum Opus Toilet

[vito.a]

Control board replacement -Sealand Magnum Opus Toilet

I just replaced the control board in our Sealand Toilet. It takes about 10 min the first time and like everything else it would take about 5 min the second time.
We have owned several different RV toilets including a very expensive macerator toilet, but this Sealand Opus has been the best. The seals and ball valve last 10 times longer than our other toilets and you can adjust the water level easily for boondocking.

Sealand Technologies manufactured great RV and marine sanitation systems. Sealand was purchased by Dometic in 2002 and unfortunately Dometic has discontinued many of the parts for Sealand toilets.

Our Magnum Opus toilet uses a 12v electronic flush system. To do this it has a control board with relays and other electrical components to make all the timing and solenoids work in perfect rhythm. The electronic control board is no longer available. I’ve heard stories about people paying very high prices for these boards on eBay.

Fortunately for us, one of our smart (and persistent) IRV2 members (pwhittle) came to the rescue. He reverse engineered the original control board and made it better. He used all high-grade components and installed it all in an enclosure to protect it.

There are three 12v electric cables that attach to the board. To replace the board, you remove the cables and reinstall the new ones. It's not quite that easy because one of the cables is very short and difficult to get to.

First lift the board up slightly and unscrew the two retaining screws on the side 3-wire cable. The other two cables on the bottom were too short to pull the board completely up out of the toilet, so I lowered the board down through the opening and then unscrewed the bottom left 2-wire cable from the side. Then I turned the board upside down and unscrewed the larger 10-wire cable. (I ordered the new board with extensions for these two bottom cables.) I attached these extensions to the original bottom cables and then routed them up through the toilet opening. I held the new control board above the toilet and installed the two bottom extension cables onto the bottom of the new control board. I then tilted the new board slightly and reinstalled the original 3-wire cable on the side.

Done! The new board has all the features of the original board plus some new ones. You can select low, medium, or high water levels as well as normal or service modes. We use medium water levels when on city water and low when boondocking. Plus, the new board has an LED display with all the functions. You can flush it and watch it go through the functions.

I expect this new board to last as long as we own our coach and I expect that to be a very long time.

The first picture below is the original control board and the second is the new one installed.

[Ivylog]

Not trying to cut into Paul’s new board business but found a video by PSC Electronics which helped me isolate my staying open problem to the limit switch, not the control board. They work on the boards.
PSC Electronics, Columbia, MO (573-814-3131)
Here is my post on my problem and temporary solution until I can find a replacement switch: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/dom...se-520280.html

[pwhittle]

Dick,

The limit switches are available on Amazon. I have replaced one myself to make sure it worked.

I also sent a couple to someone that got a replacement controller board, but the new controller board fixed the issue.

Paul

[Ivylog]

Paul, got a part #? I haven’t been able to cross the Dometic-Seland # and haven’t taken the bad one out yet.

[pwhittle]

Dick,

The ones I have are no longer available.

I think these are the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVDXGPS

I am not sure that will fix your issue, but let’s see when you replace it and test again.

Paul

[Ivylog]

Thanks Paul...from what I could see, looks right. Definitely the switch as I added 2 wires so I can duplicate it closing (short the 2 wires together) as the ball valve closes. Otherwise it opens again and stays open.

[TXcamping]

Hey Paul thought I’d ask a question too since you are on this thread. Using your controller which is excellent i might add... put the coach at the campsite today, good water pressure. When I raise the handle to fill bowl the valve clicks but barely any water comes out. I removed the fill valve and the screen is clean. Think the solenoid coil is bad?

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by TXcamping

Hey Paul thought I’d ask a question too since you are on this thread. Using your controller which is excellent i might add... put the coach at the campsite today, good water pressure. When I raise the handle to fill bowl the valve clicks but barely any water comes out. I removed the fill valve and the screen is clean. Think the solenoid coil is bad?

watching... Might add that under the bowl (you have to unbolt and lift it off)there is an adjustment setting. Ours has a very early serial number, and they did a lot of changes during the length of mfg.
[model 3048, serial # 0000270]

[Ivylog]

Originally Posted by TXcamping

Hey Paul thought I’d ask a question too since you are on this thread. Using your controller which is excellent i might add... put the coach at the campsite today, good water pressure. When I raise the handle to fill bowl the valve clicks but barely any water comes out. I removed the fill valve and the screen is clean. Think the solenoid coil is bad?

Not Paul, but I’d say the coil should read 40-50 ohms. The fact that it passes water says it’s good so I would check the voltage while filling.

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by vito.a

Control board replacement -Sealand Magnum Opus Toilet

I just replaced the control board in our Sealand Toilet. It takes about 10 min the first time and like everything else it would take about 5 min the second time.
We have owned several different RV toilets including a very expensive macerator toilet, but this Sealand Opus has been the best. The seals and ball valve last 10 times longer than our other toilets and you can adjust the water level easily for boondocking.

Sealand Technologies manufactured great RV and marine sanitation systems. Sealand was purchased by Dometic in 2002 and unfortunately Dometic has discontinued many of the parts for Sealand toilets.

Our Magnum Opus toilet uses a 12v electronic flush system. To do this it has a control board with relays and other electrical components to make all the timing and solenoids work in perfect rhythm. The electronic control board is no longer available. I’ve heard stories about people paying very high prices for these boards on eBay.

Fortunately for us, one of our smart (and persistent) IRV2 members (pwhittle) came to the rescue. He reverse engineered the original control board and made it better. He used all high-grade components and installed it all in an enclosure to protect it.

There are three 12v electric cables that attach to the board. To replace the board, you remove the cables and reinstall the new ones. It's not quite that easy because one of the cables is very short and difficult to get to.

First lift the board up slightly and unscrew the two retaining screws on the side 3-wire cable. The other two cables on the bottom were too short to pull the board completely up out of the toilet, so I lowered the board down through the opening and then unscrewed the bottom left 2-wire cable from the side. Then I turned the board upside down and unscrewed the larger 10-wire cable. (I ordered the new board with extensions for these two bottom cables.) I attached these extensions to the original bottom cables and then routed them up through the toilet opening. I held the new control board above the toilet and installed the two bottom extension cables onto the bottom of the new control board. I then tilted the new board slightly and reinstalled the original 3-wire cable on the side.

Done! The new board has all the features of the original board plus some new ones. You can select low, medium, or high water levels as well as normal or service modes. We use medium water levels when on city water and low when boondocking. Plus, the new board has an LED display with all the functions. You can flush it and watch it go through the functions.

I expect this new board to last as long as we own our coach and I expect that to be a very long time.

The first picture below is the original control board and the second is the new one installed.

I have a spare OEM board, however..I know of several who may be in need of this re-engineered one.....
I am in need of the early half ball seal..it is a a thick Blue with ridges one... the later ones are black and thin, and "warp/deform" when tightening the top plate... any ideas?

[Jandcinok]

For future reference theres also an outfit named Flight systems who can also rebuild circuit boards no longer in production. They have a pretty large following in the marine industry.

[Roy1]

Wish I had known about these sources for the board. I threw away my beloved toilet because dometic told me my defective board was obsolete and couldn’t be repaired or replaced . I agree the old opus was much better then the new toilet I now have

[TXcamping]

Originally Posted by Ivylog

Not Paul, but I’d say the coil should read 40-50 ohms. The fact that it passes water says it’s good so I would check the voltage while filling.

Went ahead and ordered a new one. It would only show light resistance, wasn't plugged, and voltage was fine.

[Ivylog]

I ordered the limit switches Paul linked ^^^^. Neighbor needed some too so ordered the 6 of them...all of $8.50.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVDXGPS
They are the correct ones...fixed my problem. Was able to remove the switch without removing the entire mechanism but getting the new one back in was going to be difficult with the tools I had... removed the 3/8th nuts that hold and center the flush mechanism. After several tries I finally got the ball and seal lined up so the water stays in the bowl. In hindsight it would have been easier to put the new switch in without removing the flush mechanism than what it took to get the toilet to hold water again.

The black switch is the replacement and the bottom 2 lugs are the ones used...normally open.