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Old 08-18-2022, 02:01 PM   #1
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Converter question

Hello, I think my converter is going out on my 2003 HR Admiral SE. unfortunately the label has been scratched right at the model no. It is a Powermax 55 amp plug in model but I donít see any listed that are of similar size, all are larger boxes. A Fortron 55 amp 3 stage unit looks identical to my old unit. Any thoughts? The new Powermax are all 4 stage. Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-18-2022, 02:03 PM   #2
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I'm curious as to what problem you are seeing to make you think it is bad.
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Old 08-19-2022, 09:01 AM   #3
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I returned to my RV the other day and although I had left it with the air conditioning turned up to 90į and all 12 V lights off I had no 12 V power. I had 120 V so I started checking what I thought might be the problem. The converter was warm to the touch and the fan was not on. I started checking all breakers, And fuses. Battery was showing 13.6 V. While waiting for RV tech the 12 v suddenly switched on, tech checked things out and said converter.
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Old 08-19-2022, 09:36 AM   #4
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The converter is also the charger. Same wires and all.
If you had 13+ volts at the battery, the converter/charger is working.

If the batteries are at or above 11 volts, your 12 volt stuff should all still be working.

If the converter is working and the battery is not dead, it has to be a bad connection or a auto reset circuit breaker tripping.

Even with a bad Battery Disconnect, the converter will power the RV but then the battery wouldn't be showing 13+ volts.

If you have solar then it could be the battery disconnect failing, do you have solar?
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Old 08-19-2022, 11:38 AM   #5
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StephenR-

If your 2003 is wired as my 2008 was, the following applies. If not, well...

The converter connects to the house battery bank through a bus bar. The bus bar is attached to the (rotary, manual) house battery bank disconnect switch.

The house 12V service passes through the same switch. Then, it goes through a 120A breaker. From there it goes forward to the Front Distribution Panel (FDP), which is located in the forward-most driver-side storage bay.

On the FDP, the house 12V service splits. Part goes to a bank of fuses. The rest goes to a solenoid. This is the house battery disconnect solenoid. From there it goes to more fuses and through a 40A circuit breaker, on its way to the rear interior 12V fuse panel.

The BATTERY or BATTERY CUTOFF switch activates the house battery disconnect solenoid. Often this switch is by the entry door.

If you read through what I've written carefully, you'll see it is possible for the converter to be charging the house battery bank (say, 13.5 volts) even though there is no 12V to the interior of the coach.

Check these when you notice there is no 12V to the house loads:

1) Is the LED lit on the propane detector?
2) Does the display on the refrigerator work? (This assumes a propane-electric absorption refrigerator)

If the answer to both is "No," then check the 120A breaker near the house battery bank. This is because 12V is not getting to the FDP.

If the answer to both is "Yes," then check the BATTERY or BATTERY CUTOFF switch and its solenoid. This is because 12V is getting to the FDP, and to the "unswitched" loads such as the propane detector and refrigerator, but is not getting though the house battery disconnect solenoid and/or the 40A breaker.

I suspect the house battery disconnect solenoid. I had to replace it once on my coach in six-and-a-half years of ownership.

By the way, I don't think the original converter would have been a Powermax. More likely is a Progressive Dynamics PD9100 or PD9200. Link to them here.
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Old 08-20-2022, 09:55 AM   #6
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Converter

Thanks for your responses. I already ordered a converter so Iíll install it and go from there. I appreciate the info and will share it with my RV tech and see what we can come up with. Weird how it shut down by itself and then switched back on by itself. The fan on the converter started working and it cooled down at the same time which is what led us to believe it was the problem.Everything has been running fine since then. ??
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Old 08-20-2022, 11:08 AM   #7
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Let us know how it turns out...
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Old 08-30-2022, 06:37 AM   #8
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Converter working intermittently

First time post: I have a 2005 American Eagle 40 that I purchased 1 year ago. I named her "Strugglebus". I keep Strugglebus plugged into my homes 20 amp circuit to keep the batteries charged. I do not turn off the battery switch. All the batteries appear to be 2 years old. Recently the RV charger control panel shows it is off and the battery level drops below 12v. (down to 9 volt once). The 50 amp Smart EMS panel shows no ac power.

If I unplug the RV from the house and plug it back in, the converter starts up and bulk charges, then absorption charge, then standby as it should.
I have unplugged the RV from the house and tried to use the generator. This takes several start ups before the 50 amp EMS panel registers that the generator is now providing power.

I have tried to find a wiring diagram in all the manuals that were provided (and there are plenty) but to no avail. I am thinking there may be a solenoid somewhere that needs to be replaced. I just don't know where to look for this.

This forum appears to be just what I need to get to the bottom of this. A little help would be appreciated. Jerry P.
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Old Yesterday, 01:39 PM   #9
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Converter update

To start off with hurricane Ian missed us here in North Central Florida, we got off very lucky. Anyway after losing my 12 V power and having it mysteriously turn itself back on again I had no further problems with it until the day before the hurricane was supposed to hit. I woke up early to finish my prep for the storm and had no 12 V power. After running around in the dark with a flashlight and my multimeter and calling my trusty mobile RV tech, The 12 V power came on by itself after about two hours once again. I had ordered a new converter and was planning on sending it back but I just went ahead and hooked it up. So that takes one variable out of the equation, now Iíll wait and see if I lose it again. itís difficult to track something down when it doesnít stay broken. I definitely donít need the stress of having 12 V power disappear when I need to button up for a storm, my slide outs were still out.
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Old Yesterday, 02:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannacamp View Post
First time post: I have a 2005 American Eagle 40 that I purchased 1 year ago. I named her "Strugglebus". I keep Strugglebus plugged into my homes 20 amp circuit to keep the batteries charged. I do not turn off the battery switch. All the batteries appear to be 2 years old. Recently the RV charger control panel shows it is off and the battery level drops below 12v. (down to 9 volt once). The 50 amp Smart EMS panel shows no ac power.

If I unplug the RV from the house and plug it back in, the converter starts up and bulk charges, then absorption charge, then standby as it should.
I have unplugged the RV from the house and tried to use the generator. This takes several start ups before the 50 amp EMS panel registers that the generator is now providing power.

I have tried to find a wiring diagram in all the manuals that were provided (and there are plenty) but to no avail. I am thinking there may be a solenoid somewhere that needs to be replaced. I just don't know where to look for this.

This forum appears to be just what I need to get to the bottom of this. A little help would be appreciated. Jerry P.
If I follow, you were plugged into house and your converter/charger appears to have stopped working and you replugged and it started working ? If this happened one time, and it's fine now I would not worry. If it's continuous then I would be concerned. My high end inverter charger will go dark if it's on and I just plug into house, it's a protection feature. Not saying that is your issue there are a few variables but it could be as simple as plugging in again like your cord was messed up or a tiny bit of corrosion- to me the big clue is your coach said it had no power...and might help if you post the type of converter.
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