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expedition1 · 07-15-2013, 06:46 PM

I have a 2005 Expedition on a Freightliner chassis. Has anyone changed and flushed their systems themselves? Could anyone sort of walk me through it? Is it recommended to use a commercial type of flush to run through the system? Thanks in advance.

Mr_D · 07-15-2013, 06:49 PM

Yes, I've done it myself.
But, what are you trying to accomplish?
Just changing due to age?
Changing to a different type of coolant?
Changing out the hoses and coolant at the same time?
?

expedition1 · 07-15-2013, 06:55 PM

Changing the coolant basically due to age. I have considered changing to extended life coolant.

Ray,IN · 07-16-2013, 05:29 PM

The HDT truck shop near me pumps the old anti-freeze through a series of filters, then re-charges it with the necessary additives and returns it to the radiator after it has been flushed thoroughly with distilled water . Anti-freeze never wears out just loses the additives.
A long-time friend owns and operates a radiator repair shop. He told me years ago to never use chemicals to clean out a radiator. The reason is; radiator flow is from bottom to top, if any tube is stopped up the chemical will settle down the tube to the blockage where it cannot be rinsed out and eat away at the tube until it makes a hole.
Don't take my statement for fact, ask at your local radiator repair shop or your chassis manufacturer.

Jim_HiTek · 07-16-2013, 05:48 PM

I did mine following the instructions in my Cummins engine manual. The hardest part was finding somewhere to dump the old anti-freeze without getting into trouble.

Dutch Star Don · 07-16-2013, 07:51 PM

expedition1.....It's an easy job, just messy. I used one of those party buckets, about 24" across and 12" deep with the rope handles as a drain bucket.

Look around for the radiator petcock. It may be hard to find or in an area that is hard to access. Use the petcock or just remove a hose clamp from a lower hose and drain the old coolant. Reconnect the hose/close petcock, fill the system with water, warm the coach (turn on the dash heat to circulate old coolant out of the heater) and drain.

Many will flush one more time with distilled water. It's fairly cheap and is what should be used with new coolant. Drain the system one last time.

I would DEFINITELY use one of the new extended life (OAT) coolants. It doesn't require any testing or additives, will probably last longer than you'll own the coach and it actually runs about 5 degrees cooler.

I used Final Charge which is available at Pep Boys or other auto stores. To me, it was easier to buy the coolant in a 50/50 mix than to buy concentrate and mix with distilled water, but you will need two gallons of concentrate for the job.

Once you've flushed the coach, pour in the two gallons of concentrated coolant. The reason for this is that you'll never get all of the water out of the system. The two gallons guarantees you're at a 50/50 mixture. Continue filling with the 50/50 mix until full. You'll probably have to add some more once the coach gets good and hot and burbs out any air.

You'll have to look up how many gallons you hold, but will probably be around 9 or so.

expedition1 · 07-28-2013, 07:11 AM

Has anyone had any problems with air locked into the system? I recall reading on Caterpillar paperwork something about pouring the coolant at a certain rate to avoid air problems.

jerichorick · 07-28-2013, 06:01 PM

Freightliner has a special formula for their systems. I can't say or not that this is just a money making thing for them. I feel that Ray, IN has the best practice. When the shop does the work they get the water heater and cab heater fluid clean also. They also bring the fluid back to the manufacturer's specs. Another thought is that you don't have to worry about spills, dumping or air locks and it is 'green'.