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Old 03-18-2019, 03:47 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bigd9 View Post
I've always worked under the assumption that punching a hole and letting oil drain out might not be the best practice. If some some reason you can't get the filter off, you would be out of luck.

I've looked at getting a oil drain valve, but then I looked at having to change the oil on two tractors, a Honda CRV, and a Toyota Sequoia plus the motorhome, buying valves for all of them adds up. I use one 24 quart drain pan for all of them.
In most cases, if the filter didn't come off, it was pretty much crushed and not usable anyway.
The all come off, one way or another.
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:48 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
In most cases, if the filter didn't come off, it was pretty much crushed and not usable anyway.
The all come off, one way or another.
You do have a point. I twisted my John Deere tractor filter so hard it ripped the can right off the base. I had to carefully cut the filter base off. I swear they must employ that gorilla you see on the on the gorilla glue commercial.
Good Luck, Be Safe and Above All, Don't Forget To Have Fun
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2006 Fleetwood Discovery 35H, 2014 Honda CR-V, M&G Engineering Braking System
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:20 PM   #31
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I have had to drive a long screwdriver through the filter and use it as a T-handle to get it off. only time I punched a hole in one on purpose.
99 Itasca, Sunflyer, ISB Cummins/Allison 36L
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:32 PM   #32
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When we got this DP, I told myself that I wouldn't be changing 33 qts of oil and unlike the six qts. I was used to in a gasser.
Well, once I realized that in the time it took for driving it somewhere, waiting on it and for driving it back home, I'd already be done. Fuel cost money, as well as the high cost of these lubes. I'm greasing and changing fuel filters too, so not sure what the final $ might be.
Sooooooooooooo, with buying Rotella on sale with a rebate, a mobile drain cart with a hand pump and all the filters from Amazon, I more than paid for it all, with one change. Next time around, I'll really be ahead and the rig doesn't have to leave my driveway for any of this.
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Old 03-19-2019, 04:53 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bigd9 View Post
I've always worked under the assumption that punching a hole and letting oil drain out might not be the best practice. If some some reason you can't get the filter off, you would be out of luck.
I use a filter socket wrench that works with long handled 3/8 drive ratchet wrench. Never had a filter not come off with that. But you could always give it a 1/4 turn before punching the hole. The thing is that removing filters full of oil is usually messy and its hard not to spill some. Punch the hole and it all drains into the oil pan.
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:50 PM   #34
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Yes SW 52nd.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:40 PM   #35
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Daaaang.... I need to do the math. How many 12 packs could have been purchased had I done the oil/filter changes myself on a Cummins ISL400, Onan 8K, and a brake test? Local Cummins-approved shop charged me $850. This is a great thread and I'm learning a lot. A slow learner, but still learning...
Bill & Julie & those Havenese pups.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:35 PM   #36
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Dear Coachman Joe,

1. There are also mobile oil change companies that specialize in servicing busses in most major cities. These fleet guys tend to be cheaper than the expensive RV Dealers.
2. Find the local vocational Technical school in your Rea and talk to the teacher to see if the would be willing to expose the students to RV service work, and typically they ask you to pay for supplies only.
3. Learn to do it your self, most discount auto parts and auto zone stores and pep boys stores take used oil in and resell/dispiose.

Get empty 5 gallon buckets and oil change catch basins designed for large trucks or busses to avoid spills.

Personally I do all my service work as it allows me to get a close look and identify developing problems quicker. Look at bottom of oil pan and filters for metal shavings.

Look at oil pan and heads for leaking gaskets or oil leaks drips.

Look for dripping fluids or cracked and rotted hoses and belts during oil changes, or other visible issues.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:38 PM   #37
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Oil Change

Not sure about the genset but I do my own engine and get the Valvoline Blue Premium at my local Cummins Center for $18/gal and Fleetguard filter from Amazon for $29 free shipping. So basically $90 for oil and $30 for filter and 20 minutes easy work and it's done. Anything you can do yourself saves you a ton of cash. Don't forget YouTube if you haven't done something before. Remember, lefty loosie, righty tighty.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:44 PM   #38
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I do my changes at home -- have the space and place where I can get to the front end easily for the generator and the back for the engine changes. For getting the filters off, I bought what is called a "spider oil filter wrench" -- works great on the engine oil, water, and fuel filters for removing them. Some have questioned what to catch the oil in due to the quantity --I went to WalMart and bought an under bed storage container and use that to catch the oil --- will hold much more than what is in the engine and then I pour from that into the empty oil containers using a filter so there is no fill. It takes me about an hour to hour and half for each of them to change everything out and clean up.
Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny, 2013 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:45 PM   #39
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Oil Change

Big difference in hour work horse and a cummins pusher.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:52 PM   #40
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Cummins X-605 HP diesel pusher. SPEEDCO, Casa Grande

$380 for Fleetguard Oil Filter, Fleetguard Fuel Filter, 52 Quarts of Rotella T 15w40, lube all zerks, oil analysis on computer, about 1 hour time. No wait.

Can't beat that with a stick. I'll happily pay that amount to get it done on the road. .

Gary and Dee, Zowie and Bowie (traveling cat sibs)
2019 Cornerstone 45B, X15-605hp, Imperial, Spartan K3,
2013 Honda CR-V toad, Demco Excali-Bar II,
Demco Baseplate, Demco Toad Light system, 73 de W5FI
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:59 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
Cummins ISM 500

Oil Filter = $40
Coolant filter = $13
Fuel filter = $20
Air brake cartridge = $40
19 qt. Rotella = $80

Onan genset

Oil filter = $12
Fuel filter = $32
6 qt. Rotella = $24

And an air filter for the Onan is about $16 and for the Cummins is about $175.

These are all discount prices.

19qts in the M series Cummins.....they hold more like 9-10 gallons.

On a 5.9 Cummins and Lp gen 300.00 would be a fair price. Expect to pay more if they lube the chassis or do any additional filters like fuel or air.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:02 PM   #42
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Oil change

Last time I decided on the DIY. When I was finished, I thought thats was too easy. Its work but not much different from your car just 18 qts of waste oil to deal with. I burn mine. You have to be the one willing to tackle that kind of work.
That said a full oil, lube, filters and gen cost me about that much. A fuel filter is work and the labor rates are up there. I work with 2 different truck shops and they are fair but the rates are up there. Good luck, the woes of a diesel owner.
Rod n Susan
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