MountainMike: That video was good. The part that I will be working on is the rate shape snubber. The parts kit should cover all parts in there. The rate shape tube connected to it is like a critical tuned tube and I will be careful with it. I rebuilt a John Deere tractor diesel and appreciated the experience. I like diesels. This Cummins is more advanced, though, but I'll be careful with it.
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Travel man since your working on our caps system you may want to read the thread as well. Its on your lift pump. I have the same engine and I will be installing one of these pumps.
MountainMike: Thanks for the link. I read about this yesterday on the site. I like the idea and will plan for that, too. I also read about AirDog and a return line to the tank supposedly is not required. My tank is in a location that could be hard to get to. AirDog is supposed to be demand only. I still need to read up on both systems and have sent an email off to AirDog. I'll look into the FASS system, too. I have a 2000 Fleetwood American Tradition.
n2zon: This is from BKDiesel:
"Yes high pressure area, that fitting is where the "constant stored" injection pressure is connected to the control valve for metering & distribution. No real pulses, just one way flow. But just to give you an idea, the pressure varies between 5000 & 15,000 psi depending on RPM & horsepower demanded."
I can appreciate just the 5000psi.
Grin. Guess it's important to have exactly the right seal.
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John 1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
MountainMike: Thanks for the link. I read about this yesterday on the site. I like the idea and will plan for that, too. I also read about AirDog and a return line to the tank supposedly is not required. My tank is in a location that could be hard to get to. AirDog is supposed to be demand only. I still need to read up on both systems and have sent an email off to AirDog. I'll look into the FASS system, too. I have a 2000 Fleetwood American Tradition.
There is an important safety consideration. If you have a leak *anywhere* on the HP side of the pump, do not look for it with your fingers while it's under pressure. Use something that's not part of you, like a wooden dowel. A face shield wouldn't hurt, either.
At those pressures, you could, for instance, lose a finger; or, get a diesel injection. HP liquids are perhaps the only things more hazardous than HP gases.
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John 1976 Southwind 28', '96 Winnie 34WK,
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP
MountainMike: Thanks for the link. I read about this yesterday on the site. I like the idea and will plan for that, too. I also read about AirDog and a return line to the tank supposedly is not required. My tank is in a location that could be hard to get to. AirDog is supposed to be demand only. I still need to read up on both systems and have sent an email off to AirDog. I'll look into the FASS system, too. I have a 2000 Fleetwood American Tradition.
Travel man, the link above for the Fass pump was written by a friend of mine. After much research of both pumps I’ve gone with the Air Dog for many reasons. 1) it’s built for the trucking industry and is a beefy setup. 2) the pump is a demand flow pump, the Fass puts out X amount pressure and volume so you must run a return line back to the fuel tank to unload all the fuel not needed. Demand flow pumps pump at a certain pressure and the volume pumped is what the engine requires at any given RPM, any excess fuel is recirculated within the pump and two filters, thereby NOT needing a return line back to the tank but can tee into the Capps return line at the lift pump manifold. 3) Air Dog has a sensor built into the pump and filter housing to let you know when the filters need changing by lighting a LED light on the dash. 4) the pump also has easy adjustability of fuel pressure. In a few weeks I’ll be posting a lengthy write up of the installation with pictures and fuel pressures at particular points in the Cummings engine section. A side note, I’ll be bypassing the lift pump completely and will only use the return line portion. My coach is a DSDP 2000 model with the 8.3 ISC.
TR4: I've been reading about the two pumps and sending off emails. When I get a little extra money this will be the next job. I can see the worth in having it - even a rebuilt CAPS pump is alot to invest in. I can put that money in the fuel tank and go somewhere.
Arkansas RV: Thanks for the post. All the posts here have been good ones. I'll be looking forward to your write up. I had read that the Air Dog was demand only. I like simple installations, too. If I can install this fuel pump/filter system in a remote location using heavy duty braided shielded hose then I would be happy. The existing OEM remote fuel filter in back is easy to get to, but the rest of the existing OEM fuel and oil filters were in tight places. I had to get a special order chain strap socket on a very long extension with a long breaker wrench to get those off. I had thought about doing without those extra filters on the new electric pump, but I read that the filters on that pump help to prevent aeration of the fuel. I could run the LED indicator conductor you mentioned in the same "cable tray" I ran my M & G Engineering air brake LED indicator for the flat towed vehicle. I had to take alot of interior trim pieces off to run it through existing ways, but I wanted a clean reliable install. I used split loom wire shielding to protect it and it looks OEM. Thanks for your post. I will surely read it.
Update: I’m late in writing this because of other maintenance issues, but here it is.
The new snubber valve assembly for the accumulator is the new design that does not require replacement each time it is loosened or if it leaks. If it is removed, a new seal disc is required by the service manual. The inner parts of the new snubber are different than the old parts, but the operation is the same. I had to buy a crowfoot for my socket wrench and I had the torque wrench (in-lbs) already. If you use a crowfoot, make the necessary recalculation for the torque value. Things may change when you add things to the torque wrench.
I included .pdf files below, also, that show parts locations and sequence of assembly.
Picture: The new parts
Picture: Old and new parts compared (New parts are on the left side)
The new spring is shorter than the old spring, but the new snubber valve is milled shorter inside.
I hope the above link works okay. It is on the Cummins site, too. You can get a free owner account and put in your engine serial number. Do not bend the rate shape tube.
The .pdf file below shows how to replace the snubber valve and has the torque value. This info is also on the Cummins site and is for a 2000 year model Cummins engine. https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1590716147
I cranked up the engine and it ran with no problems and no leaks. I did not notice any difference in operation between the old and new snubber valves. The replacement was easy, but tight in the engine compartment. I placed a piece of wood on the valve cover and sat on it while holding a flash light. I saved between $1200 and $1400 with this fix and did not have to replace the accumulator. You may want to place a cloth piece under the snubber valve area to catch any parts if you drop them. The parts are small and have to go in the sequence shown in the service information above. Thanks to everyone that responded to this post.
Linear Mode
