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10-05-2018, 08:01 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full time
Posts: 77
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Cummins ISL 425 Dusted
Been having an intermittent Check Engine light coming on. Just took the Coach into Cummins and they diagnosed the following:
STALL TEST CHECKING BLOWBY, HAS 12 INH20 UNDER STALL, SPEC IS 12, WILL BE SLIGHTLY HIGHER ON DYNO OR ON ROAD, REMOVED AIR FILTER AND INTAKE PIPE TO CHECK FOR DUSTING, FOUND INTAKE PIPE CLAMP ON TURBO LOOSE.
*see photo
Recommendation is a removal of the engine to examine cylinders etc. 15K just to get the party started. I’ve had no performance issues, no smoke, and no burning of oil between changes. In fact, the engine has had regular service, yearly air filter changes, and I’ve had zero issues with this engine. It has 68K miles on the engine. 2008 American Coach. This just seems out of line! Am I missing something? Are there other options here?
Thanks
Scott
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10-05-2018, 08:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Well, rebuilding the top end of my ISX went over $33,000. New liner and piston in 5 and 6, new head and valves.
So no, I don't think the price is out of line but certainly outlandish!
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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10-05-2018, 08:33 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full time
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D
Well, rebuilding the top end of my ISX went over $33,000. New liner and piston in 5 and 6, new head and valves.
So no, I don't think the price is out of line but certainly outlandish!
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Was yours dusted as well? Mileage? If so, I’m just curious if you were having any symptoms or just a check engine light?
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10-05-2018, 08:34 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: B.C.
Posts: 4,638
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If there are no performance issues or burning oil I would clean up the air intake, fix the clamp and run it for a few miles and monitor things.
__________________
Dennis & Marcie & Captain Hook The Jack Russell,aka PUP, 2006 Itasca 29R 2017 Equinox toad. RVM59
We came, we went, nothing broken, nothing bent!
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10-05-2018, 08:53 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickest1
If there are no performance issues or burning oil I would clean up the air intake, fix the clamp and run it for a few miles and monitor things.
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What he said...[emoji2]
__________________
2020 Grand Design Reflection 315RLTS
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
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10-05-2018, 09:08 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Blairsville, GA & WPB, FL
Posts: 3,993
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Start with a oil sample to determine how much dust/sand was injested. Having been there and based on the condition of your impeller it was caught in time. Mine had leading edges that looked like coarse sandpaper and one had 1/8 th inch missing from one end. Fortunately mine had an opposing vain (8 not like your 7) so by smoothing the leading edges with a file and removing an equal amount from the opposing vain...I did not replace the turbo and that was 45K miles ago.
I would change the oil and then sample and change again in 5K miles. Measure the location of the oil on your dipstick after a few miles and then again every thousand miles (under the same conditions) to try and tell how much if any oil consumption you may now have. Also check for any oil spots on your toad.
If no oil on your toad I would consider yourself lucky. If it does use a little oil and there are oil specks on your toad I would make a oil catcher for the engine vent (steel wool in a gallon jug) as oil is cheap and these engines are tougher than most think.
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10-05-2018, 10:50 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,794
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All of the above suggestions are good. At $15k from Cummins I would be very suspicious of their diagnosis.
I have come to the conclusion that they are only looking for money
__________________
Don
2002 Country Coach Intrigue
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10-05-2018, 11:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,442
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In all this did they give you any indication of what was causing the CEL ,, a code ? , or a good explanation of how a dusted engine would cause an intermittent CEL ?
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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10-06-2018, 12:34 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Nashville, IN 47448
Posts: 803
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You are getting good advice. PM me?
__________________
Bill & Jenny - 2016 Winnebago 42HD
2022 Vanleigh 39GSB - 2 BR Fifth Wheel and 2020 F450 / 2024 Jeep 4XE Rubicon…traveler in Midwest and Winters in Sarasota. Home - Nashville, Indiana (Beautiful Brown County)
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10-06-2018, 01:49 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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I would surely want a second opinion on the codes. If they continue after the clamp has been tightened.
I would get an oil analysis on the current oil - and change oil and filter. Then monitor oil usage over a few thousand miles and get another oil analysis.
Imho.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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10-06-2018, 04:20 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,400
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In your picture, right on the center hub piece at 7 o'clock it looks like that center hub may be cracked or dinged....or is that a piece of cloth or something from a rag? Just looks strange from the photo and can't quite make out what it is.
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10-06-2018, 05:28 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,415
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Clamp it back up, change the oil and run it.
At worst, it will use some oil and have some blow by. The damage is done, and it should run like that for a very long time.
Or a not much different then needing an overhaul at say 300,000 miles. When it gets real bad, then have it overhauled.
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10-06-2018, 07:59 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
Clamp it back up, change the oil and run it.
At worst, it will use some oil and have some blow by. The damage is done, and it should run like that for a very long time.
Or a not much different then needing an overhaul at say 300,000 miles. When it gets real bad, then have it overhauled.
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Exactly what I would do. Only thing to loose is a bit of oil at worst. At best you can keep 15K in your pocket.
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10-06-2018, 08:12 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Full time
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa
In your picture, right on the center hub piece at 7 o'clock it looks like that center hub may be cracked or dinged....or is that a piece of cloth or something from a rag? Just looks strange from the photo and can't quite make out what it is.
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I did inquire about that, it’s actually casted that way.
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