Curved blocks?

[Deb Lawson]

We have a 2006 National Sea Breeze we travel in for 3-4 months in the summers. We’re trying to make set up and travel days a bit easier and leveling is always a chore.

Has anyone used the curved type blocks to get your front end level? I realize they wouldn’t work for the rear duallys.

Seems we are ALWAYS in very unlevel spots and need to block up our front end before attempting to level with the jacks. (I don’t get my wheels off the ground. It just bugs me and I like the extra stability of 8 points down)

I think these type of blocks are made for trailers but it ‘seems’ like they’d be an easier option for the front tires if needed. We currently use heavy wood block we’ve made in various sizes, but man they’re heavy. Take up a lot of room too.

TIA for any input!

[bigb56]

Originally Posted by Deb Lawson

We have a 2006 National Sea Breeze we travel in for 3-4 months in the summers. We’re trying to make set up and travel days a bit easier and leveling is always a chore.

Has anyone used the curved type blocks to get your front end level? I realize they wouldn’t work for the rear duallys.

Seems we are ALWAYS in very unlevel spots and need to block up our front end before attempting to level with the jacks. (I don’t get my wheels off the ground. It just bugs me and I like the extra stability of 8 points down)

I think these type of blocks are made for trailers but it ‘seems’ like they’d be an easier option for the front tires if needed. We currently use heavy wood block we’ve made in various sizes, but man they’re heavy. Take up a lot of room too.



TIA for any input!

I tried the Beech Lane curved levelers and did not like them. They slide easily and the rubber mats they give you ripped the first time we used them. You have to give it a lot of gas then be prepared to smash the brake as soon as you think you're where you need to be. They are also heavy (they are solid, not hollow or even structured inside but solid).


What finally made life easy for us is rubber pavers from Lowes, cut them in 1/2 for 8x16 pieces. They work on the front and back and are adjustable in 3/4" increments, and you can stair step them and drive right up. They never slip. I use Level Mate Pro to tell me how many I need for each wheel and leveling has never been easier or faster. You can even use one to kneel on while you slip a stack under an inside dual.

My Beech Lanes have been sitting on a shelf at home for 2 years now waiting for the next yard sale.

[DarkSideJeep]

Originally Posted by Deb Lawson

We have a 2006 National Sea Breeze we travel in for 3-4 months in the summers. We’re trying to make set up and travel days a bit easier and leveling is always a chore.

Has anyone used the curved type blocks to get your front end level? I realize they wouldn’t work for the rear duallys.

Seems we are ALWAYS in very unlevel spots and need to block up our front end before attempting to level with the jacks. (I don’t get my wheels off the ground. It just bugs me and I like the extra stability of 8 points down)

I think these type of blocks are made for trailers but it ‘seems’ like they’d be an easier option for the front tires if needed. We currently use heavy wood block we’ve made in various sizes, but man they’re heavy. Take up a lot of room too.

TIA for any input!

I would check on 2 things. First is tire diameter, the ones I looked on Amazon were designed to work with tires up to 32" in diameter. Second is weight, will they support the weight? The ones I looked at says tested up to 35,000#. However, I am skeptical. Is that 35,000# on one lever or tested on a unit with a total weight of 35000# with multiple levers?

[SandiaMan]

I hear you, some of our favorite RV parks that are well taken care of and well managed have terribly unlevel sites. What were the RV park developers and/or designers thinking when building these RV parks, obviously they were not RV owners.

As to your post, we have used the curved levelers a few times as we carry a couple of them for extremely unlevel scenarios. They do the job but as mentioned above they are cumbersome to work with and somewhat difficult to implement.

The few times we have used them the curved levelers had no issues handling the weight of our front tires and motorcoach, however we always attempt to level the front end of our coach with our power gear levelers and traditional leveler pads first.

[Ray,IN]

Some MH mfgrs. highly discourage lifting any wheels off the ground to level. If that's what your prefer, don't forget to carry enough blocks to put under the jacks so they have the travel to level the MH.

[triplewide]

I tried a curved block a ways back, did not have good luck with it, but could have been me not the blocks.


I second bigb56's post regarding LevelMate Pro. Costs a bit but makes leveling much easier. With out leaving the driver's seat you can find the most level spot at your assigned site. You also know if your jacks will be able to level or are blocks needed under tires or tires and jacks. You get real time feed back in inches for each corner of the coach.


At home on a level surface I determined how much lift I could get before needing blocks at tires and jacks. Made stackable blocks out of 2x12 lumber, staggered in length. counter sunk 3 bolts in each layer and drilled matching hole in the layer below. This allows the blocks to "lock" in place when stacked. Able to achieve 6" lift to tires and 11" overall lift to any one corner.
Blocks can be moved one layer at a time and stacked in place to reduce the weight.


Once I determine the the best spot to park, My DW stands beside the front tire location, I back up about 3'. Get out, place the required blocks at each wheel (if needed). Pull forward while the DW observes from outside.


What makes this easier is knowing how much lift you need in inches prior to leaving the driver's seat and knowing how much blocking you need if any and at which tire.

[Deb Lawson]

Sounds pretty much like what I do. I have the level pro and also made wood blocks in different heights.
I was just looking for an easier way. The blocks are heavy, cumbersome and take a lot of space. Looks like it’s the only option though. Other than dreaming of level sites lol.

[Deb Lawson]

That’s interesting! Did you build stepped up ones for different heights or do you just stack them and they stay?

[MtCamper]

I use the level mate pro and cut a 1/2 horse stall mat into 8x12 pieces. Slowly inch around your site until you find the most level spot then just add enough of the 3/4" stall pads to get level. The pads are heavy but don't crack splinter or break.

[triplewide]

Originally Posted by Deb Lawson

That’s interesting! Did you build stepped up ones for different heights or do you just stack them and they stay?

Originally I had them all separate and they attached with bolts like the bottom layer in the pics. I ended up screwing the top 3 layers together and added a handle. You might find it easier to keep them separate. Paint them with a couple of coats of good oil base paint ("tractor paint") helps keep them clean and easy to wipe off before stowing. Stowing takes up the bottom 6" of one of the larger bins.

Here are some pics:

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Deb Lawson

We have a 2006 National Sea Breeze we travel in for 3-4 months in the summers. We’re trying to make set up and travel days a bit easier and leveling is always a chore.

Has anyone used the curved type blocks to get your front end level? I realize they wouldn’t work for the rear duallys.

Seems we are ALWAYS in very unlevel spots and need to block up our front end before attempting to level with the jacks. (I don’t get my wheels off the ground. It just bugs me and I like the extra stability of 8 points down)

I think these type of blocks are made for trailers but it ‘seems’ like they’d be an easier option for the front tires if needed. We currently use heavy wood block we’ve made in various sizes, but man they’re heavy. Take up a lot of room too.

TIA for any input!

Well Sir,
That's kind-a the way I think too. I never have been a fan of lifting ANY wheels and tires off the ground to achieve level. Sometimes getting level just takes WORK! And there's lots of RVer's out there that don't like that word. Anyway, in my thought process, curved blocks aren't really the answer to your way of trying to achieve your goal. You see, in a curved block scenario, while you may get infinite adjustment simply because there's *no* steps to drive on which may put your rig over an intended height or under.

But, with a curved block, even once you obtain your desired level, your coach will be constantly trying to *fall* back down that curve. Yes, parking brakes are definitely the answer but it's still TRYING to fall because it wants to roll back down the curve you just rolled UP on.

So, Leveling blocks, and or ramps of some sort is what I use. I made mine from 1 1/8" tongue and groove decking plywood. There's 4 levels, two short and two long, all cut at a beveled angle. Then they are glued and screwed together and finally they're coated with a marine varnish. YES, they are heavy. YES, they are bulky. and finally, YES, the do the job every single time without fail. Every RV'er needs or has to do what they feel is best for them in these types of situations.

If I need my ramps, I take the time to get out, place them and then drive up on them. If that did the trick for what I call "primary leveling", then because I drove UP on these ramps, my rig may be higher and that means the jacks have farther to travel to touch earth. Soooo, I break out the other blocks I've built and insert them under the jacks. That way, the jacks don't have that far to travel and, as you stated way earlier, I now have 8 points of stability in any unlevel scenario.

I don't mind the WORK it takes to get level every now and then. By doing things this way, you're not over stressing any one part of the coach, tires and wheels, jacks, frame, windshields, door openings (both them and the windshield can get tweaked by over stressing one corner or another). Soooo, I do what I gotta do to keep things in one piece.
Scott

[Deb Lawson]

I think I need to learn how to answer comments better! I was unclear. Thank you for the time and the photos! Very informative.

I put together something very similar to you. Minus the paint and the bevels and with cheap lumber HD cut for me… we don’t have sticks and bricks here anymore so no tools or workshop area unfortunately. Just me and my drill out here lol

I’m getting the idea that this is the best way to go. I was just looking for ‘easier’ and more importantly lighter on my back. In the heat or on those times we’re doing more traveling, they get heavy for this old girl lol I swear we’ve had to bring them out almost every stop this summer!

Thanks again! Happy (level) camping.

[triplewide]

I think there is a market for stackable/interlocking ramps, similar to those above but made from honeycomb plastic. There are the stackable squares available now but they leave a lot to be desired. I am thinking 2" thick flat bottom for first layer and two more interlocking 2" layers. total lift 6". Hand holds/grip points molded in to each layer.


I'm ready to develop, manufacture, and market theses. Just need money, contacts, and nerve. Other than that I'm ready.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Deb Lawson

I think I need to learn how to answer comments better! I was unclear. Thank you for the time and the photos! Very informative.

I put together something very similar to you. Minus the paint and the bevels and with cheap lumber HD cut for me… we don’t have sticks and bricks here anymore so no tools or workshop area unfortunately. Just me and my drill out here lol

I’m getting the idea that this is the best way to go. I was just looking for ‘easier’ and more importantly lighter on my back. In the heat or on those times we’re doing more traveling, they get heavy for this old girl lol I swear we’ve had to bring them out almost every stop this summer!

Thanks again! Happy (level) camping.

Deb,
There's really no doubt about it, WE'D ALL like to do things in the RV world and life EASIER. At 72, I don't get a big thrill out of lugging those ramps around to the correct wheels, then get down on my knees and place them where they need to go. Then do the same with those 11" x 11" x 5" blocks for the jacks. But, while the effort needed for this kind of scenario can be almost exhausting, the results and rewards are at least to me, quite gratifying. The "results" I refer to are of course, the coach is predominantly level. The "rewards" are in my opinion, not having to FIX something because I over tweaked the coach trying to get level.

I have seen and red here so many times: " Why don't you just move to a more level spot?" Yeah sure! Like that's really gonna happen. We all know just how crowded about 98% of Americas camp grounds are and not to mention, reservations have been placed months before so, for the most part, unless you know a campground and each set of potential spots, you get what you get and you don't get to "MOVE TO ANOTHER SPOT"!

As far as not being able to "build" any type of ramps, yeah, without the place to do the work, the tools and equipment, and the knowledge of correctly building these so they last, it's tough. I've been doing stuff like this since before Christ was a pup. I'm slowing down now though. As far as "light" in terms of how light something is when picking it up, yep, those ramps I made are definitely not LIGHT. But, when you're driving on them with 30,000 of coach, ya pretty much don't want a pile of tooth picks when backing down off of them. I recently saw a set of plastic ramps at a Camping World in Idaho Falls ID. They seemed pretty stout and were actually quite light. Maybe something to look into.

Originally Posted by triplewide

I think there is a market for stackable/interlocking ramps, similar to those above but made from honeycomb plastic. There are the stackable squares available now but they leave a lot to be desired. I am thinking 2" thick flat bottom for first layer and two more interlocking 2" layers. total lift 6". Hand holds/grip points molded in to each layer.


I'm ready to develop, manufacture, and market theses. Just need money, contacts, and nerve. Other than that I'm ready.

The Matte Mattel honeycomb stackable squares do have a place in the RV world. But not everywhere. When one has some awkward and off camber situations when driving up on something to get level, the last thing one wants to hear is the snap, crackle and pop (recognize that from the breakfast cereal?) of plastic breaking under a 30,000 or 40,000 coach. For those kinds of situations, you need some tough stuff. I myself don't look around that much for already produced ramps etc. I just know that based on what I'd seen for sale in the past, was not gonna work for our heavy coach without consequences.

So, that's why I built what you see in a previous post. I needed/need something that's gonna last and can take that kind of abuse, time after time, situation after situation. So far, those that you see that I built, have been with this coach for over 10 years and are still almost as good now as when I built them that long ago. And we've used them countless times. Yep, I'd sure like to have the same kind of ramps and the same dimensions, but weight CONSIDERABLY less. But so far, in my somewhat limited research, ain't happening.
Scott