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Old 09-07-2012, 07:24 PM   #1
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Dash Air

Ok I'm new to this. What I have is a 1996 Vogue Prima Vista. We are having a problem with the dash air on this coach. We have taking it to three different repair shops with no luck. The problem is that it will blow cold for about 3 to 4 hrs. and then quit working. Of course the 3 or 4 hrs. are in the coolest part of the day. As the outside temp rises so does the temp on the dash air. Any body got any ideas on this. The repair shops are at a loss. Thanks
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:10 PM   #2
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More info please? Are you saying the blower motor stops running, or that it stays running though now it's blowing warm air?
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:29 PM   #3
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Not knowing what AC/Heater unit you have take a look at this link.
You can put a pair of vice grips on one of the heater hoses and see if cooling improves.
The ball valve will work if cooling improves.
No sense tearing things apart before trying some basics.

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Old 09-08-2012, 10:56 AM   #4
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Recently had a similar issue. The problem ended up being the relay that turns on the electric condensor fan or shuts it off when the AC begins to freeze. After a few hours the relay got hot and did not start the fan. The relay on mine was mounted on the front of the evaperator box with two wires attached and a bare solid wire probe going into the box. This is a relatively simple and inexpensive repair. I hope this is your problem.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #5
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It sounds like mine this year.Mine runs for about an hour or so. Then it starts to warm up. ( I keep a thermometer in the dash vent line ) I shut off the a/c compressor and it will stay cool for a little while and then start to warm up. ( ice melting ) once the ice gets melted I turn the compressor back on and it gets cold again. I believe mine is low on freon.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:42 PM   #6
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You need to shut off one of the heater hoses to keep heated water out of your AC/Heater unit.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:00 PM   #7
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Use a temp probe or infra red thermometer and stick it into the vents when the system has run for about 10 minutes. Run the dash AC on high fan and temp and in the recirculate mode.

The temp from the vents should be cooler than the ambient temp in the coach. Actually, it should be about 20 degrees or more cooler at the vent if the dash AC is working correctly. I have had mine at 47 degrees on a 80 degree day.

My DP holds 5 lbs of 134a. One can only know if you have enough 134a if you put a gauge on the high pressure side and take a PSI reading and compare to the temp graphs available online.

When the air is running too warm at the vents for good AC, check the center of your AC compressor pulley driven by the serpentine belt. The center piece is the AC clutch. It will be magnetically drawn to the pulley when you turn on the AC switch at the dash and there is enough pressure in the system.

If the clutch is not spinning it usually either does not have power or there is too little 134a in the system to create adequate pressure. If not enough pressure, the low pressure switch will likely turn off the power to the clutch.

If the clutch is not spinning with the AC switch on, disconnect the clutch wire pigtail, about 12 inches behind the compressor, from the power wire and take a voltage reading at the power wire. It should be about 10 dcv or higher with the engine running and the AC switch on.

If no power, check the fuse for that wire.

If the fuse is good, replace the relay that controls that wire and probably introduces the condensor fan system in the switching process. It will cost about $10. Or switch the relay from an working system into the AC system and see if power is at the rear of the coach.

If the fuse is good, the relay is good, and no power at the Clutch power wire, then you may have an AC switch problem.

If there is power at the clutch power wire, but the clutch does not spin, take a resistance reading at the clutch wire. If less than 3.4 ohms, you have a clutch coil magnet problem. The coil at minimum would need to be replaced by removing the clutch and pulleys. This could also occur if the clutch is continually blowing the fuse when the AC switch is activated.

Touch a jumper wire from a 12v source to the clutch wire if you get a good resistance reading. If the clutch engages then the clutch is likely ok and pressure may be your problem. (I just had this experience where the clutch reacted and the ohms readings were marginal but it kept blowing the fuse on the AC power wire. So I replaced the 17 year old compressor. That fixed the problem.)

The AC techs should have checked all the above already but they shy away from big motor home electrical issues as I have learned. In fact, it is my opinion that some certified techs use shortcuts to recommended procedures to spend less time on each unit.
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