Dashboard air

[WannaFTit]

Ones anyone else have a problem with the dashboard air not cooling the front section of their 40' DP? We have had ours looked at 2 times and both times told that it just isn't meant to cool down the RV, that we should just use the basement air and run the genny. my question is, SHOULD the dash air be able to keep driver and passenger cool while driving?

John and Judy

[Happyho]

Should --but normally doesnt because of the amount of space there is to cool. Some people put a sheet across behind driver and passenger to cut down on the amount of space they are trying to cool. Most just use their house air with generator running.

[whem2fish]

True mine is only 28 feet years ago I went to the wrecking yard and bought a rear air from a good times van I live in Texas this wouldn't work in your Rv if it's hot I run the generetor

[Mekanic]

It is just doesn't have parts large enough to cool more than the front 6?-10? feet (depends on just how much is glass ,.....)
The dash AC is just built of Car/Pickup truck sized AC parts.

I agree about the last poster idea of the curtain.

[bgc44a]

Yes it should, but what kind of condition is it in? Try hanging a curtain behind the driver and passanger seats.

[SteveLevin]

Biggest issue is that windshields are huge single pane conductors of heat and cold. For my coach it's less a question of temperature (it blows cold and hot) than just total volume of air it can move...

Steve

[TXiceman]

As you have been told, it will not cool much more than the front few feet of the big class A. The windshield gains a lot of heat. Some owners rig a plastic curtain (shower curtain) right behind the front seats to limit the volume to cool.

If others are traveling with you, you will need to run the generator and roof A/c units.

Ken

[wa8yxm]

Yes, Yes and no.

Yes I have had problems due to a couple of defective components which have since been replaced (Total 3)

Yes I have problems because the standard DASH air conditioner is NOT big enough to properly cool with all that glass up there in the greenhouse we call aq cockpit.

NO, it's working properly. The tests indicate it is working as designed, Just not big enough for the job (Well working as designed since the last bad part got replaced)

They really are not designed for full sun on a motor home at 100 outside temp.

To test, with A/C on HIGH, stick a thermometer in the out flow.. Now to do it right you need a "4 port" thermomemter" but since few have those, one will do.

The 4 ports (4 points you measure)

Evaporator inlet temp and out flow temp
Condenser inlet and outflow temp.

Then from a chart you can tell if it's working, You also need a humidity reading both inside and out.

Practical. If you set it to MAX AIR and measure the air temp near the floor where the inlet is, and the outlet is 25-30 degrees cooler.. You are good.

This, however, is NOT absolute,

[NINK]

We had the same challenge with our A/C. Had it tested and was told that the A/C was operating as it should. We did as others have suggested and rigged a cable that runs the width of the coach behind the driver/passenger seats that holds two panels of thermal-backed, energy-efficient curtains. It really helps.

[ahicks]

Make sure you're not trying to cool hot outside air? Are you running it on max so the recirculating door is open to the inside?

I set ours up so the chassis heater/AC is sucking air from the inside full time, no matter how the control is set. Makes no sense to me why I would want to heat cold outside air, or cool flaming hot outside air?

The side benefit to doing this is that when you roof AC's are running, the cab AC will pick that pre-cooled air off the floor and shoot it in your face if you like! Or you can set the control so the cab AC compressor isn't running, the heater on full cold, roof AC running, and with that recirculating door open because it can't close - you get the air from just the roof AC blown in your face.... WOrks good enough for us to run the cab AC on low much of the time.... even when it's VERY warm outside.

[Perry White]

Drop a clear shower curtain down behind the front seats. The dash air works on most as long as it's under 80 degrees out.

[B Bob]

Our OTR air (dash air ) works well and we never use anything else when driving. We do have a second unit in the bedroom which is also main motor driven. When it is not too hot the dash air alone works fine. Most Affinities come with two running airs like a lot of vans and SUVs do.

[redtop]

Originally Posted by ahicks

Make sure you're not trying to cool hot outside air? Are you running it on max so the recirculating door is open to the inside?

I set ours up so the chassis heater/AC is sucking air from the inside full time, no matter how the control is set. Makes no sense to me why I would want to heat cold outside air, or cool flaming hot outside air?

The side benefit to doing this is that when you roof AC's are running, the cab AC will pick that pre-cooled air off the floor and shoot it in your face if you like! Or you can set the control so the cab AC compressor isn't running, the heater on full cold, roof AC running, and with that recirculating door open because it can't close - you get the air from just the roof AC blown in your face.... WOrks good enough for us to run the cab AC on low much of the time.... even when it's VERY warm outside.

How did you fix it so the fan only pulled air from inside the coach? Does keeping it on MAX air do it? Thanks

[Vegasdan]

Consider trying to cool a small apartment with a automobile A/C, that's what you are trying to do. Run the genset and the roof or basement air.