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09-23-2021, 03:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Metchosin BC
Posts: 463
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Delamination - easy fix?
I am looking at a '07 Coachman Class A. The rig seems to be in good condition overall but I did notice one issue. There is delamination above the driver side window and it appears to be caused by a discontinuation (or rip) in the seam sealing tape (unfortunately didn't take a photo) where the front cap meets the body. Delamination runs 1-2' or so. No evidence ofwater stains or delamination on the inside.
Assuming that the plywood isn't rotted and soft (no ladder handy so I couldn't press on it), will this be a relatively easy fix? Not looking to fix the delamination but to prevent further water ingress and rot.
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09-24-2021, 06:15 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,698
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The short answer is no. The outer skin (in older coaches) is filon over a 2-ply luan plywood. The delamination is between the layers of plywood. The foam insulation has no sheer strength so even if you can glue to it, the foam would separate along the glue line. Coachmen at some point switched to Azdel composite, which does not deliminate, and now many other builders are using it too.
__________________
TeamFoxy ~ Traveling North America
2016 Newmar Canyon Star 3710
2017 Chevy Equinox in tow.
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09-24-2021, 09:44 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,671
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Fixing the water leak may be easy. Fixing (re-attaching) the delaminated skin will not be.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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09-24-2021, 10:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Metchosin BC
Posts: 463
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Thanks. Assuming the wood hasn't rotted and the leak is fixed (tape + sealant), is there any issue just leaving the delamination as is?
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09-25-2021, 04:51 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Western NC
Posts: 79
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I've seen some videos in the past showing people drilling holes and injecting epoxy all into the delaminated area. Then they use boards between it and the wall of a building to clamp it over a few days. The results looked good at least on the video. I don't know the real success rate of that process but it looks like there are some companies out there selling kits to do just that.
Disclaimer: I have no idea if that would even work at all in most cases. I just remembered seeing that somewhere on youtube and thought maybe it's something you can research more if you wish. My 88 class A that we're refurbishing has a very small spot that I may try it on. It won't be the end of the world if it doesn't work.
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09-25-2021, 11:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,525
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Easy depends on who's asking. But someone who is asking typically isn't experienced so not so easy.
Post some pics for better assistance. Not too close and not too far away.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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09-26-2021, 11:05 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCatsRV
Thanks. Assuming the wood hasn't rotted and the leak is fixed (tape + sealant), is there any issue just leaving the delamination as is?
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It's hard to picture what exactly you are describing, but if the delam is right beside the transition seam between the sidewall and side of the front cap, and only an inch or two deep, running parallel with the seam, you may be able to Inject some apoxy behind the wall where the seam is fastened. Usually there is a metal trim piece screwed to the sidewall with a decorative plastic piece pressed on and sealed Overtop of it. Take the plastic piece off to expose the metal transition track and have a look, you might be able to take it off and then inject the epoxy behind the filon wall piece along the seam and then screw the metal transition track back down to hold it while it cures. Usually large areas of delam are cut out and replaced with a new wall piece. Yours sounds relatively minor and even if the epoxy doesn't take that well, as long as you stop the leak and seal it properly it should be just fine. Just an idea
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2001 National Tradewinds 7372
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09-26-2021, 11:22 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 2,825
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If you're thinking about fixing this yourself, and it sounds like you are, there is a product for boats called GitRot that is very thin epoxy. It flows very well and may be just the ticket for what you are looking to do. Here's a link: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/boatl...04_120_001_009
__________________
An Old Fisherman
2017 Nexus Ghost 36DS, 2014 Ford F150 Long Bed
2007 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic
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09-26-2021, 11:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Metchosin BC
Posts: 463
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I went and has a closer look yesterday. It's firm beneath and doesn't appear to be delaminated (FG skin didn't move when pressed either) and wasn't as ripply as when viewed at a shallow angle. Perhaps poor workmanship and not signs that the RV has water damage.
Looks like we'll be getting this RV tomorrow.
Thanks again, all.
FWIW, my neighbour got a Class C very cheap a few years ago. He did the epoxy injection trick as the RV had quite a bit of water damage to the bedroom windows.
As far as (preventative) maintenance goes, what kind of sealer am I looking for to:
seal cap/side transitions
roof
windows?
As for latter, the RV has a window on the rear cap and it appears silicon was used to seal the window (a no-no, I've heard).
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09-26-2021, 12:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: On the continental divide
Posts: 2,622
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Call the folks at "RV Fog Doctor" in Searcy, Ark. and ask them what they seal the windows with when they replace them.
They just repaired and replaced 4 of mine, and did an outstanding job of getting the fog out of them.
Mike in Colorado
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37c, 8.1 gasser, (Jezebel) Ultra RV ECM / TCM, plugs wires, and rear track bar, PPE deep Tx pan w/ temp gage, Bilstein's, Sailun's & Sumo's all round, pushed by a 2002 Grand Caravan, on a Master Tow Dolly OR a WR-250 on a rail.
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09-26-2021, 12:50 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCatsRV
I went and has a closer look yesterday. It's firm beneath and doesn't appear to be delaminated (FG skin didn't move when pressed either) and wasn't as ripply as when viewed at a shallow angle. Perhaps poor workmanship and not signs that the RV has water damage.
Looks like we'll be getting this RV tomorrow.
Thanks again, all.
FWIW, my neighbour got a Class C very cheap a few years ago. He did the epoxy injection trick as the RV had quite a bit of water damage to the bedroom windows.
As far as (preventative) maintenance goes, what kind of sealer am I looking for to:
seal cap/side transitions
roof
windows?
As for latter, the RV has a window on the rear cap and it appears silicon was used to seal the window (a no-no, I've heard).
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I recommend Dicor self leveling sealant on the roof itself, proflex color match on all vertical surfaces including the windows.... 4" Eterna-bond tape works well on the end cap seams, prep the surface and lay it right over top of the factory sealant...mine has gone 8 years now with no issues. I wouldn't use it around your vents or skylights though, as it is really hard to remove it for a repair or replacement.
__________________
2001 National Tradewinds 7372
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09-26-2021, 01:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Metchosin BC
Posts: 463
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Thanks again. I will post photos once I get it home.
Another issue. The 2nd owner (we'll be the 4th) mounted a satellite dish on the roof. Dish is gone but the mount is just a block of wood attached to the roof. Though we plan to keep the RV under wraps (comes with a cover), should I remove this mount or leave it alone and seal it well?
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