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Old 05-16-2022, 10:59 AM   #15
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For top up purposes distilled water works for anything. You don't want to put too much in if you have a leak, but it will get you to somewhere to fix the problem. I carry the balance of a gallon of concentrate of the coolant my DP radiator is filled with and another gallon of distilled water for toad and top ups.
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Old 05-16-2022, 11:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 716OutWest View Post
Hello - I am new to the forum and new to RVs in general. We just purchased an older Diesel pusher (2006 Monaco Diplomat) and we are getting it ready to take cross country. Had everything inspected mechanically by a truck shop and the interior systems by an RV inspector and things are seemingly in good working order, however, I just wanted some input / thoughts from experienced RVers of spare parts / things I should keep in the "tool-box" for common parts and issues that may arise (i.e., spare belts, coolant, etc.).


Thank you in advance!

Nothing. Not a thing. We used to load up like we were going on safari. Turned out, we were just going camping and there's a Walmart on every corner. These days all we have is a roll of rescue tape, a small home owner's tool kit we got at a big hardware store and a credit card. Everything else can be picked up en route if and when you need it. Take a good hard look at any "what if" items you bring along and decide if that's going to keep you from getting stranded or not. Everything that won't should stay at home. Take another look and decide if it's something you can easily put your hands on if you need it like oil. It's everywhere, no need to carry it around. A little low in the morning? Just get some while you're fueling up. After awhile you'll figure out what you need along for convenience and what doesn't need to be taking up space and fuel.
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Old 05-17-2022, 07:53 AM   #17
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Run SCA/DCA test strips on sample from radiator petcock or the coolant filter . I say that because you don't know if the coolant tank was just topped off and with what. There's a valve with knob at both ends , on coolant filter housing if tight right side side is strongest or turn both together. Filters have slow release pellets of protection .
Take a pic of strips as you compare there's about 5min window before color can't be trusted. The moly/nitrate mix has better overall coverage protection it falls into a graph you use both values. Now if you wonder if done right you have a record also when it was tested.
If changing to OAT coolant a blank filter is used. You can send out samples of all fluids for analysis there is more knowledge to be gained how things are going.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 716OutWest View Post
Thank you to all for the the great info! This is extremely helpful and some great advice. I know it can be difficult to predict a failure but for the folks that have done this before it's nice to know what is more common than not.

A quick follow-up question regarding engine coolant - several have mentioned keeping some on board, is there a "universal" coolant that I can use to top off? I have read some threads where it appears to be VERY specific on which brand, concentration, chemistry, etc. that you can use depending on what is is there currently. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!

Again, thank you to all who replied and for the welcome to the community.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:04 AM   #18
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Your not going to do large repairs on the road. You need once in a while tools. Save money and go to Harbor Freight. They have screwdriver sets in plastic cases as well as socket sets, combination wrench sets and allen wrench sets both metric and standard on the Allen wrenches. Your rig should be metric, but you need to check. Make sure you have a drill and drill bits with a socket attachment with extension cord. Battery tool are great at home, but the battery will die when not kept charged. This is a once in a long while tool on the road. Then you need a square screw drive for your drill. Also a square screw drive hand tool as well. Epoxy, Gorilla Tape, 3M industrial double stick tape and 3M tape primer, Zip ties, small wire cutters, small and large needle nose pliers, pex ratchet crimp tool with 1/2" and a few 3/4" crimps. I do carry some red and blue pex pipe as well. You may ask how many times I used pex? Well three times in the last six years twice in the middle of knowhere. I also carry RG6 coax, RG6 coax crimping tool, coax stripping tool, and proper satellite grade f type connector. I have only used it twice on my SOB rigs, but have help several other campers along out over time. I also carry a four foot torque wrench with the proper socket and extension to take off a dully on my diesel pusher. I have seen only a few who had a a inner dully go flat and the service truck show up with a tire, but could not change do to not having the proper tool to remove the dully. Note that an outer dully or front tire can be changed on the rim. I will not be stuck. That reminds me, you need to read the date on your tires. At or over seven years, get new tires. It is time not wear or how they look. The tire internal carcass is too old. Load your rig up and have it weighed. Make sure you use the load/pressure chart for the required pressure. Add five psi to it. I add ten.
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