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hit the road · 05-26-2012, 07:39 PM

If it helps, I had a problem with my Corvette. The Corvette Forum said it's a common problem in that the contacts in the ignition switch burn. I put in a new switch and in a couple of weeks it started doing it again. I would have to try starting it up to ten times until I got a connection. Someone suggested spraying the key with something like WD40 and insert in the switch, doing this several times wiping the key with a clean cloth. So far, I haven't had any more trouble with it.

Whoachubby · 05-26-2012, 08:02 PM

Had the same problem with my cummins diesel.

1999 discovery

Everything was working fine.

Went out next day would not start - turn over - click - nothing

Worked all day called discovery cummins Allison.

Finally called a diesel mech. He checked all the suspect areas . Starter solenoid etc.
He thought it was a battery- took main batteries out checked - all were great.
Finally he cleaned all battery terminals and retightened.
Started like a champ. The first thing I should have checked .

slickest1 · 05-26-2012, 08:29 PM

When you replaced the starting batteries, if they were not fully charged, working on the lights and starting a couple times may have took them down too far. You say it was started and shut off shortly after a couple times. It might not of ran long enough to build the charge back up. I would try charging the batteries and see what happens.

sgtjoe · 05-26-2012, 11:07 PM

If yours is set up like mine go for the bigger looking one. It should have all the wires going to the starter. Good luck and let us know howe it worked.

calhyatt · 05-27-2012, 06:15 PM

Just for nothing but did you check to see if the transmission indicates N when you try to start and did you check that the cruise control switch on the turn signal is turned off.

RKL · 05-27-2012, 06:46 PM

diesel Fool...the 3 little boxes you looked at attached to a plate next to the frame rail are very impt to the chassis electric 12v system....the box toward the back of the Rv is the main power relay to the 12v Chassis system..Ist test continuity between the two posts on this box...There should be continuity,,If none you can jump across the terminals with a large wire or put the red cables together on one post...the middle box is the relay for the air duct heater and the box nearest the front is the starter relay....you can test this by turning ignition switch to start and jumping the large posts with a wire...If there is power to one of the large terminals and not the other when the ignition is in start position it is a bad relay....remember start at the rear relay.first...to be sure even with continuity there, jump the studs anyways to make sure full power is flow thru the relay...sometimes the copper flap corrodes so bad that only enough power for the lights will pass thru....good luck RKL

Diesel Fool · 07-14-2012, 10:44 AM

Bad starter solenoid as suspected & replaced.
Also brushes in alternator shot. Rebuilt & being replaced today.

Never could determine which 2 terminals to jump solenoid without risking further havoc.

Thanks all.

KmsgoracerKm · 07-15-2012, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbeane

Sounds to me like you might check your connections at the starter. Quick easy check is loosen wiggle retighten all connections try it. If it works bad connections remove and clean replace.
As others have said starter circuits are not complicated.

Diesel Fool, You are getting good advise about the connections, etc. I have a Cat too but have not suffered your problem yet. I hate to even say this on the forum because I don't know where the solenoid is, either remote or built in with the starter, but I would find it and tap it with a wood dowel, cut off broom stick or something. You can hit the started too. This can be done with some one trying the iginition/start switch at the same time. If this jarring makes the starter activate, then you are getting closer to your problem area. Maybe some of your frustrations will go away as you abuse your starter. Good luck. T