Different spin on “dashboard bounce” problem

[Hrdwrguy]

I have a 2003 Fleetwood Bounder that has the Bounder dashboard bounce. I’ve scoured the site for fixes and have gotten some good leads like finding a number screws loose or missing inside under the dash. But I think my real problem is under the hood. I still have a bouncing dash,and the edge of it moves up and down relative to the window when driving on rough surfaces.

Several folks have found loose and missing screws where the front edge of the body is attached to the frame, and after feeling around I can tell there are several missing and others which can’t be tightened. Bobs guides has great pictures of his fix but my rig seems to be built differently. While the screws on his are visible with the hood access open, the screws in question on mine come from the from the outside in. The heads of the screws face the side of the front cap, as if they were screwed in before the front cap was mated to the RV (I promise to get a picture up a little later).

On the passenger side I can just barely reach a ratcheting wrench in there to drive a hex head sheet metal screw in where a screw is missing, but there is too much in the way on the drivers side. Further, I don’t trust sheet metal screws to hold up for long and would much rather use bolts and locknuts.

So here’s my crazy idea... To install three bolts on each side I could drill three quarter sized holes through the fiberglass front cap where the bolts would go. Use those for access to drill holes for bolts, and then use a ratchet and wrench to secure things. And finally close the holes access holes in the cap with some kind of finished looking plug.

Am I totally nuts here? I can’t see any other way the solve this problem, short of removing the entire front of the RV, and that isn’t an option.

Mike

[Brob]

I recently purchased a 90 degree driver from Milwaukee for the purpose of getting into areas I couldn't otherwise reach. I managed to go decades without such a tool but now that I own it I don't know how I did without it.

[Hrdwrguy]

Thanks for the suggestion Brob. Unfortunately there isn’t room for one, I have less than 2 inches of clearance and not much space to the sides.

[keger]

As I'm reading your message I was coming to the same conclusion as you did. Can you find the right spot on the outside fiberglass to drill without being off too far? Maybe after you drill your hole and get everything installed you could add some silicone to the hole then install your plug. Even a decorative plug might make it look factory. Post some pictures of your handy work. Good luck.

[Hrdwrguy]

Here are some photos. The first is just of the inside of the engine bay looking to the passenger side. The second shows the area I have to work in and a sheet metal screw I tried to put in with a wrench. And the third shows where the proposed holes would go, the vertical line on the tape would be the center line of the holes relative to the seem between the cap and side walls.

[Dav L]

There has to be a way to secure the dash without having to drill through the exterior.
From the exterior photo - the dash creak is on the passenger far side width wise?

My Bounder dash creaked in the dead middle. Two plywood halves come together there and when they are loose, they scrape / creak together. Fix was to put a scrap board across the gap and screw both plywood sides to it. There is a steel support that needed larger diameter screws as the old ones were stripped / pulled out from the dash moving so much.

There were more screws closer to the fiberglass front cap that I just replaced with slightly larger diameter.

Made a BIG difference in the sound level inside.

I think I remember someone else who put some ripped 2x4s around the perimeter of the dash board plywood and braced them to the floor in strategic spots. Haven't seen anyone have to drill holes thru the front cap.

I would fiberglass the dash to the structure before drilling the cap.

[Hrdwrguy]

Dav, its not just the sounds but the movement, the dashboard moves up and down when I compare it to the passenger side window. It is possible that the missing screws are unrelated, but I’m very uneasy leaving them as they are. In the first picture I posted the white vertical line shows where the wall surface has moved relative to the metal structure and pulled some kind of sealant loose to expose white fiberglass.

Thanks for further insight on the construction of the dash and your fix, many of the posts I’ve seen are for newer Bounders than yours and mine. Did your dashboard move much or just creak and squeak? The missing wall screws seem to be common on Fleetwoods, I don’t suppose you had the same?

[Dav L]

Not sure if our had the same wall screws, but I would guess very likely. And if I understand which, mine were half missing too. I just replaced them with larger diameter ones.

Sounds like your dash is even further disconnected from the coach than mine, or you are driving some more pot holed roads than even Michigan. Mine was more continual creaking which was annoying. Didn't notice it jumping that much, but the creaking was evidence that it was going in that direction.