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Old 09-01-2018, 02:38 PM   #15
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Larry,

Good catch with my pads. Actually I used two layers of maple gym flooring they were throwing away at the HS where I taught. They did make a nice set of fancy hard wood pads about 2" thick with handles. I carry those around as well and use the 3/4" plywood as extra when needed.

You are welcome back to the ARK-A BAGO'S when ever you two stop all the traveling. We are still going strong with a few who retired from RVing and yet more joined.

Scott,

There you go again trying to make the rest of us look bad. Nice job and good quality work as usual.

Before we leave the RVing world I sure like to set down and spend some time sharing stories. Things are changing a bit with us so we just might be able to head out West and get together.
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Old 09-01-2018, 02:49 PM   #16
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I bought 1 sheet of 3/4 plywood, cut it into 24, 8" X 24" peices and screwed 2 together with 6, 1-1/4 screws, to make 12 peices.

No fancy finish, since I throw them in the dirt, drive on them and they are cheap.

The MH drives right up them.

The picture look like only one tire is supported but both are.
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:02 PM   #17
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Just took a quick look at my RV levelers...Currently I have two stacked 2x12 boards about 2 foot long under one of the legs. Both boards are becoming a little more than slightly U shaped due to the weight. RV is sitting on crushed "millings" (ground up blacktop). Just a reminder of how much weight is sitting on the boards...
I am sure I will just flip the boards upside down and push them straight the other way till the next time.
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:11 PM   #18
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Nothing fancy, just some pressure treated 2x6 s cut and screwed together with deck screws. A short piece of rope to carry / pull them out..

I did a short article on my web site:

Leveling the Southwind – Jack Pads have many uses – 1999 Southwind 35S


..
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Old 09-01-2018, 03:18 PM   #19
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A few pieces of 2x4 sandwiched between 1/2" plywood. I carry 12x12 and 16x16 for under jacks and 12x18 for under front tires. Add a notch to slide under with your awning rod. Add a loop of rope to make it easy to pull out with the awning rod.

I too sandwich the 2x material between what ever plywood I have. A hole drilled all the way through the top provides a place to retrieve with awning rod. I can stack them and use 2 under each wheel. Some are 18 years old and still working
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:28 PM   #20
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Larry,

Good catch with my pads. Actually I used two layers of maple gym flooring they were throwing away at the HS where I taught. They did make a nice set of fancy hard wood pads about 2" thick with handles. I carry those around as well and use the 3/4" plywood as extra when needed.

You are welcome back to the ARK-A BAGO'S when ever you two stop all the traveling. We are still going strong with a few who retired from RVing and yet more joined.

Scott,

There you go again trying to make the rest of us look bad. Nice job and good quality work as usual.

Before we leave the RVing world I sure like to set down and spend some time sharing stories. Things are changing a bit with us so we just might be able to head out West and get together.
Hey TJ,
Thanks for the nice comments. Yeah, sometimes I go a bit overboard on some things. I figured what the heck, yep, they'll just be driven on and stomped into the ground and wet pavement etc. But, a little help in preservation goes a long way. I won't have to remake them for just about ever. That would be cool if you could step into our little desert town for a bit. I think our heat is just about to "think" about subsiding.
Scott
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:23 PM   #21
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Purchased 1 sheet 3/4" treated plywood at Home Depot. Had them cut it into 16" squares. Take 3 pieces and laminate together ( alternating grain ) with deck screws and white glue. Makes ( 4 ) pads, plus leftover pieces great for fine tuning odd spots.
Screw a galvanized eye bolt into 1 edge. Take an old broom handle, cut off to 3' long, and screw a hook bolt into the end. This allows you to place, position, and retrieve pads easily. 3 ply pads are strong enuf for soft ground, and stand up well.
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Old 09-02-2018, 06:12 AM   #22
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I am looking for ideas for homemade leveling jack pads and wheel ramps. On my last trip I ran into problems with my jacks sinking into loose gravel and also problems with not so level site pads. I am a DIY sort of guy and I would rather make it myself than buy it if possible.


I have a couple of ideas for jack pads made from 2x4s sandwiched between 3/4 plywood, but I would also like to have them double as pads for under the wheels. Pictures would be great.


TIA
I used 2x12 cut to 12 in. Works great.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:39 AM   #23
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I bought a sheet of 3/4 " plywood and cut it into 12" squares. Then I screwed 2 of them together. Making them 1 1/2" thick. Then I drilled a 3/8 hole in each set of pads to make it easy to move into place with your window awning rod for your hydraulic pads. And you can stack them with a little bit of a stager so that you can drive up on as many as 3 of them. Works good for me. I drive a 35' dp.
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Old 09-02-2018, 08:39 AM   #24
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I use 2X4's --- three wide -- cut to about 12 inches and two sets crossed to be about 4 inch tall -- so 12x12 square with eyes on three sides --

I use the awning hook to place and retrieve. Therefore I never have to crawl under.

They are useful for both soft ground, and also where it is very unlevel and you need more height.

thx Dale
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Old 09-02-2018, 08:52 AM   #25
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SNAP PADS for the travel trailer
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Old 09-02-2018, 11:51 AM   #26
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Scott,
I have a couple of questions about your ramps. You said you used 1 1/8 plywood. Is each level of the ramp a single thickness of the plywood? It looks doubled to me. How long is the top level?

Also, Why plywood instead of PT lumber? Is it stronger? Cheaper?

Oh, and one more question. Why 7 ramps? wouldn't you only need 4?

Thanks,

Larry
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Old 09-02-2018, 10:16 PM   #27
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Scott,
I have a couple of questions about your ramps. You said you used 1 1/8 plywood. Is each level of the ramp a single thickness of the plywood? It looks doubled to me. How long is the top level?

Also, Why plywood instead of PT lumber? Is it stronger? Cheaper?

Oh, and one more question. Why 7 ramps? wouldn't you only need 4?

Thanks,

Larry
Hey Larry,
1. The ramps are made from (4) layers of that plywood. Two longer sections and two shorter sections. The bevel was cut into each piece, before assembly. That way it made for easier alignment when assembling. All I had to do was trim off the back side to make all the lengths equal.

2. The prime reason I used that 1 1/8" decking plywood was because it was that thick to begin with. 1 1/8" x 4 = 4.5" high total. Based on much of my camping experience and, dealing with many, many un level sites, and, what I could and could not carry, those dimensions worked out the best. I mean, when you raise a coach 4.5" with a set of those ramps, that's pretty high, in my book. Especially a diesel rig. And, using that style of lumber/plywood, would allow for way more flexibility in multiple directions if they were not placed on perfectly flat pavement or concrete.
In other words, if I placed them on uneven ground and they had to "bend" some, they would tolerate that better than dimensional lumber. And, because plywood, even that ultra thick 1 1/8" stuff is that flexible, I'd experience no cracking, even aver multiple uses on uneven ground.

3. The reason you see 7 ramps is because, why not? I purchased that specific piece of plywood for the purpose of constructing those ramps. And, basically, a 9" wide rip (a "rip" is a lengthwise cut of the plywood for you non-wood working types) of that wood, would after cut into the 2-shorts and 2-longs, beveled and trimmed, would reveal or make, more than one ramp. So, (5) 9" wide sections = 45" wide (plus the blade width cuts) so, I had a few inches left over. But, all in all, when I cut all the pieces I could, from all the rips, I had seven ramps. I think I gave 2 to a friend.

4. The top section of those ramps is as stated, 9" wide but, I'm inside the coach right now and it's raining so, I'll have to go out in the morning and check the top section length. If I recall, it's close to 11" or 12" long. That is more than enough to park on when using maximum height and not have any tire hanging on any edge.
Scott
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:55 AM   #28
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Hey Larry,
1. The ramps are made from (4) layers of that plywood. Two longer sections and two shorter sections. The bevel was cut into each piece, before assembly. That way it made for easier alignment when assembling. All I had to do was trim off the back side to make all the lengths equal.

2. The prime reason I used that 1 1/8" decking plywood was because it was that thick to begin with. 1 1/8" x 4 = 4.5" high total. Based on much of my camping experience and, dealing with many, many un level sites, and, what I could and could not carry, those dimensions worked out the best. I mean, when you raise a coach 4.5" with a set of those ramps, that's pretty high, in my book. Especially a diesel rig. And, using that style of lumber/plywood, would allow for way more flexibility in multiple directions if they were not placed on perfectly flat pavement or concrete.
In other words, if I placed them on uneven ground and they had to "bend" some, they would tolerate that better than dimensional lumber. And, because plywood, even that ultra thick 1 1/8" stuff is that flexible, I'd experience no cracking, even aver multiple uses on uneven ground.

3. The reason you see 7 ramps is because, why not? I purchased that specific piece of plywood for the purpose of constructing those ramps. And, basically, a 9" wide rip (a "rip" is a lengthwise cut of the plywood for you non-wood working types) of that wood, would after cut into the 2-shorts and 2-longs, beveled and trimmed, would reveal or make, more than one ramp. So, (5) 9" wide sections = 45" wide (plus the blade width cuts) so, I had a few inches left over. But, all in all, when I cut all the pieces I could, from all the rips, I had seven ramps. I think I gave 2 to a friend.

4. The top section of those ramps is as stated, 9" wide but, I'm inside the coach right now and it's raining so, I'll have to go out in the morning and check the top section length. If I recall, it's close to 11" or 12" long. That is more than enough to park on when using maximum height and not have any tire hanging on any edge.
Scott
Thanks for answering my questions. I have one more. When using the ramps under the rear duellies, do you use 2 so that it supports both wheels?
BTW. My other hobby is woodworking, so I am very familiar with the terminology.
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