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03-09-2016, 02:21 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chula Vista, Ca.
Posts: 538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WyoFree
I've read a lot about the importance of having good records when you go to sell your motorhome. Maybe a stupid question, but how can you show good records if you perform your own maintenance including oil changes etc?
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Keep your receipts and keep a log book.
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03-09-2016, 03:35 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Whitney, TX
Posts: 437
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You've got a lot of good info and sources here. I generally buy my generator parts & filters from Amazon. For the coach engine, here's where I get my Cat filters:
Heavy Duty Truck Parts | Class 8 Truck Parts | Volvo, Truck-Lite
Reasonable prices and quick shipping.
__________________
USAF, Retired (1962 - 1983)
2006 Monaco Diplomat 40 PRQ
2006 Honda CR-V Toad
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03-10-2016, 06:42 AM
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#31
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Moderator Emeritus
Monaco Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 13,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rag_ftw
Dennis try these guys the next time you are in Dallas. I bought a torque multiplier from them for $40. Yes it is made in China and yes it is cast and not steel! That being said it managed to loosen and retighten all my lug nuts, which was something I couldn't do with a two stage impact!
https://www.google.com/search?sclien...12.0i-6w11ga_Q
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I'll look at that Robert, thanks
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Dennis and Katherine
2000 Monaco Dynasty
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03-10-2016, 06:44 AM
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#32
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Moderator Emeritus
Monaco Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 13,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WyoFree
I've read a lot about the importance of having good records when you go to sell your motorhome. Maybe a stupid question, but how can you show good records if you perform your own maintenance including oil changes etc?
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I keep a log book and receipts for parts.
The PO had ten years worth of receipts, but didn't want to give them to me. he made a list of all the service and I put it n the log book so it's all documented.
__________________
Dennis and Katherine
2000 Monaco Dynasty
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03-16-2016, 06:14 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: B.C., Canada
Posts: 155
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I've always done my own maintenance on my Diesel pickup truck, and I've always ran Full Synthetic, and we'll soon be buying our first preowned MH, and I'm wondering if many of you run synthetic oil? I personally use an 'extended' drain period when using full synthetic, where I just change the filter at 5K, and then drain and new filter next at the 10K mark.
I've always keeped records of all my maintenance, and will do the same when we get a MH of course. I may need a larger 'pan' for the gathering oil...there again, on my pickup, I have a Fumoto shut off drain, so I can drain out as much as I wish, shut off the drain...go and dump, come back and drain some more! Works great on my pickup, and so simple in not needing any tools under the truck, unless I do my fuel filters while under there! My oil filter is up on top, so a ratchet and socket makes the job easy.
So, are there many of you using a Full Synthetic oil, or is the usual 'Dino' oil your choice?
Thanks.
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2008 Tiffin Phaeton - ISC Cummins
2014 Honda CRV (Towed) & Air Force one braking system.
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03-16-2016, 07:18 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 540
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I will be new to this stuff soon (hopefully, if someone would sell me the right DP), but I've done a lot of research on motor oil. From Bob The Oil Guy, to conversations with Blackstone, to the forums. Unless otherwise instructed by someone on this forum, I'll be using Shell Rotella T-6 synthetic. The studies and tests are A++. And I run it in my offroad vehicle. Did an oil analysis and it was spot on.
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Lovey & Thurston - Cali Foothills
2001 HR Vacationer (SS Minnow) - Gasser!
Obviously A Lowly and Inferior MH
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03-16-2016, 10:27 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cedar Park, Tx.
Posts: 449
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Dino.... It's taken twenty years to get 150000 on my motor so I figure another twenty for the next 150000... Seeing as I've got a 500000 before inframe engine I think I'm good
__________________
1995 BlueBird BMC 37
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
1984 BlueBird Wanderlodge FC35RB-Sold
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03-17-2016, 05:49 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood Texas (West of Austin)
Posts: 4,514
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Most people change the oil in their DP's based on time (1 Yr) and not mileage. No way am I going to buy 11 gallons of synthetic, for 5-6K mi of use. Rotella T and Delo 400 have both been proven oils for many years for diesel engines in OTR trucks and commercial equipment. Your just throwing good money into the recycle bin.
__________________
Scotty and Kristen, Airedales Dagny and Wyatt
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 4528, 450 HP ISM, Allison 4000, 8 Lifeline AGM's
2019 F250 King Ranch 4x4 Powerstroke - SOLD
2022 F350 DRW King Ranch 4 x 4
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03-17-2016, 09:01 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Coastal Campers
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Marathon, Florida
Posts: 2,909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin
Most people change the oil in their DP's based on time (1 Yr) and not mileage. No way am I going to buy 11 gallons of synthetic, for 5-6K mi of use. Rotella T and Delo 400 have both been proven oils for many years for diesel engines in OTR trucks and commercial equipment. Your just throwing good money into the recycle bin.
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That's us. Never even come close to the recommended change miles wise so I just change it yearly with Rotella and a new Fleetguard filter.
__________________
Mark & Nancy
2004 Winnebago Vectra 40KD
Shep dog, R.I.P. Kenzie dog Toad 2015 Jeep Wrangler Willys Wheeler
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03-17-2016, 09:25 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottybdivin
Most people change the oil in their DP's based on time (1 Yr) and not mileage. No way am I going to buy 11 gallons of synthetic, for 5-6K mi of use. Rotella T and Delo 400 have both been proven oils for many years for diesel engines in OTR trucks and commercial equipment. Your just throwing good money into the recycle bin.
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I am in the same camp on the oil change interval.
There is no better diesel oil than Shell Rottella 15W-40W.
__________________
Rick and Lynda Smith
2020 JAYCO Eagle 30.5CKTS
2018 RAM 2500 4x4 Crew, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel
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03-17-2016, 10:18 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cedar Park, Tx.
Posts: 449
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I will say to echo my previous statement that DINO is the way to go for the engine (unless you are constantly travelling) and I'm on the once a year schedule.
However...
I am looking into synthetic for the generator as it's recommended change interval is every 100 hrs and that usually puts me into two changes/yr and I'd like to be able to stretch it to once a year also. (I usually put about 120/130 hrs a year on it but I always change it when I do the engine so I do one change around 100hrs and next change at 20/30 hrs).
__________________
1995 BlueBird BMC 37
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
1984 BlueBird Wanderlodge FC35RB-Sold
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03-17-2016, 01:16 PM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 46
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Straight to manufacture is the ONLY way to go. They all have outlets in every major town. After all they built the equipment and know what it needs to be happy lol.
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03-18-2016, 11:54 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Spicewood Texas (West of Austin)
Posts: 4,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmurdock
I will say to echo my previous statement that DINO is the way to go for the engine (unless you are constantly travelling) and I'm on the once a year schedule.
However...
I am looking into synthetic for the generator as it's recommended change interval is every 100 hrs and that usually puts me into two changes/yr and I'd like to be able to stretch it to once a year also. (I usually put about 120/130 hrs a year on it but I always change it when I do the engine so I do one change around 100hrs and next change at 20/30 hrs).
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Every 100 hrs sounds like a lot. My manual for my 10K Onan says 250 hrs or every year. Noted exceptions are extreme dust or heat.
__________________
Scotty and Kristen, Airedales Dagny and Wyatt
2007 Newmar Mountain Aire 4528, 450 HP ISM, Allison 4000, 8 Lifeline AGM's
2019 F250 King Ranch 4x4 Powerstroke - SOLD
2022 F350 DRW King Ranch 4 x 4
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03-18-2016, 02:24 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: B.C., Canada
Posts: 155
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I often wonder if it depends on where you spend most of your time, in that if you haven't put on the miles, 'why' a year? In drier climates, there is little to no condensation to be problematic, so if you haven't put on the miles, your oil should still be clean? I'm sure BIG OIL loves to hear that we change long before we get the miles on the oil...but is it truly necessary?
I'm not sure if a 'diesel' is a 'diesel' meaning, the diesels in our pickup trucks, often get used more obviously, but when it comes down to the oil used in them, the forums I have perused, have the mentality that a full synthetic is just generally better, with it's ability to be used as an 'extended' fill...or basically one can go much longer before an oil change is needed.
In saying this, in my last truck (7.3 Diesel) I was changing my regular oil at normal intervals, and I was also doing an 'Oil Analysis' after each change. Often, oil analysis can tell you if you can continue using the same oil, or if the impurities are too great, and you need to change.
I did the same when I switched over to a Fully Amsoil synthetic in the above mentioned Diesel engine. I found while continuing to do my oil analysis, even after doubling (15,000 kilometres) my oil analysis (with a full explanation of the impurities) continued to tell me I could still run with the same oil! Now, I will add that at the half way point (approx. 7500 km's) I also change 'just' the oil filter to a new Fleetguard filter.
Often, it will depend on my driving, although I rarely drive in 'dusty' conditions, but of course there can be pollen and other contaminants in the air everywhere, but oil analysis can usually catch any impurities if using a good lab. There is all kinds of information on whether it's better to use Synthetic or conventional oil, and for those that wish to do their own research on the topic, you can of course make your own decisions. To date, I've never had an oil related issue, and I chalk it up to paying the extra $$ to have an oil analysis (usually Finning does mine here in Canada) who then tell me it's time for a change, or go another 7500 km's and we'll check it again then!
Here is a link on the topic if anyone is interested Diesel Engine Oil & Filters - Engine Builder Magazine where you'll read "Stretching the oil change intervals to reduce costs is fine provided a high-quality oil (such as a synthetic blend or full synthetic) is used along with OEM quality oil filtration." - where I would add for even more protection, adding oil analysis to that let's one sleep better at night.
On edit - for the first couple of years, we'll quite possibly be putting on a fair amount of miles, compared to most, which is another reason that the conversation on 'oil' is an important one for me. I realize many go to one spot, and stay there for a good portion of their time away, but being new to this lifestyle, we have many places we want to see in the first few years.
__________________
2008 Tiffin Phaeton - ISC Cummins
2014 Honda CRV (Towed) & Air Force one braking system.
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