Community Forums

Monacoach · 12-03-2016, 12:59 PM

If I dont wake up one morning I will replace my detector.

rarebear.nm · 12-03-2016, 01:10 PM

I spent a little reading up on this some more. Several studies show that it really does not matter how high a CO alarm is mounted. Best to follow whatever guide lines the unit provides. One seemly reasonable study is at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21536403

The conclusion was that CO will equalize through out the space over a period of time. Influenced by air movement caused by drafts and other air movements. CO is 97% density of air, nearly equal.

If the CO is injected as a result of combustion it will be warmer (lighter) than surrounding air and will rise until it cools to room temperature and then mix until equalized with other gases in the space. You're happy and I'm happy with my CO/fire alarm combinations and will replace them according to the dates marked on the units.

select55 · 12-03-2016, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

It seems like I remember each of my alarms having a "replace by" date on them.

my safe-T-Alert system says replace when red and green lite both stay on
no exp date at all

RELHUB · 12-03-2016, 03:32 PM

We use our furnace any time we need it day or night when it is cold.
I have from day one installed bug shields over the exhaust ports.
This keeps bees and other small critters from making a home inside the exhaust ports and blocking the flow a gasses to the outside.

While the furnace is running go outside and look and if the exhaust coming out is BLACK. Have your furnace serviced ASAP as their is a problem with it
Otherwise it is safe to use your furnace any time to heat you MH

Old-Biscuit · 12-03-2016, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by select55

my safe-T-Alert system says replace when red and green lite both stay on
no exp date at all

The expiration date is typically stamped on Backside of units.
Have to remove to see

But usually 5 yrs.
Sensors go 'nose blind' due to chemicals, dust etc in air over the yrs.

And RVs are not exactly air tight

bill06447 · 12-03-2016, 05:51 PM

The missus wouldn't let us go overnight before I installed a CO/LP detector. I hardwired an Atwood in place of a redundant light fixture. It has a manufacture date on the back with a 7 year expiration window.

Bill2 · 12-03-2016, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by select55

BS mines 9 and still functions correctly.

You can trust it that long I wouldn't

rarebear.nm · 12-03-2016, 07:01 PM

Bill, how high up was this unused light fixture? The LP detector needs to be very close to the floor, CO detectors don't matter much.

select55 · 12-03-2016, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill2

You can trust it that long I wouldn't

well like I said according to the two factory tests one being ""press the button"" and get 4 lite flashes/beeps and the fact the red and green lites do not come on at the same time (wha factory says to observe)
along with the fact I don't use lpg and seldom if ever run the gen set
iam comfortable with the unit.

Mudfrog · 12-03-2016, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlanTerry

We will run the furnace at night instead of the electric heaters. I have heard there is more protections built in to the furnace than the electrical space heaters. What will happen if during the night if the electric space heater gets knocked over by pet/accidental bump while sleepy human? I don't think it would shut off that could cause a fire. The furnace is built into you RV unit therefore cannot be knocked over and if you use it during the day why not use it during the night?

Anyway do what you want.

Alan

I am still reading and haven't gone past this post so someone else may have already replied to the bolded.

I'm not absolutely positive but i believe just about all the little 1500 watt heaters have knock over protection. Even the cheapy $10 unit i bought last year has a tip over protection switch. There's also an overheat sensor that shuts the element off if the airflow gets blocked for some reason.

Having said this, i still take precautions when running the little heater. It doesn't get placed next to the bed or towel rack where a blanket/sheet/towel could fall over it. We make sure it's in an open area away from walls and furniture. We don't place it in a spot that has traffic at night such as in line with the bathroom..

RELHUB · 12-04-2016, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marjoa

You see...twinboat is a perfect example why gov't intervention is so necessary to protect us from things that we have no understanding about. If that sticker wasn't regulated to be there twinboat would probably die. So think about that the next time you're tempted to rip off that 4" yellow warning label off an extension cord or an appliance.

wa8yxm · 12-04-2016, 10:12 AM

Blasted program reset on me.

Question: IS your house heated with Natural Gas? Do you have an explosive gas detector in the house, A CO detector in your bedroom?

Well on my Class A there is an Explosive Gas (propane) Detector in the kitchen and a CO detector in the bedroom, and a Smoke detector, all in good working order, in the living room.... So when I do not have free shore power to run the electric heaters. I use propane.. When I do have electric, included for no extra cost, I burn kilowatts . Why, Cause they are Free.

There are dangers in all forms of heating, so long as you understand them however and take the proper precautions you may sleep safely.. Do it wrong (IE Disable the CO detector cause it keeps going off) You may fail to wake up in the AM.

What is the danger of Electric? Tip over? No, most (Actually by law all) devices are protected against tip over and over heat.

The biggest danger is that RV wiring is not really good for space heaters. I kept smelling hot wires, I had two connections fail (Have fixed with superior connection methods they won't fail again) others report the same. I wound up installing special heavy duty (15/20 amp type) outlets fed each by a single breaker with no other loads and 12ga wire.. No problems since.. I can run 4.5 Space heaters.. The two special outlets, The Washer/Dryer outlet and one special cord that goes straight to the park 20 amp outlet. No anything between one end and the other 12ga.

rarebear.nm · 12-04-2016, 10:56 AM

I agree with the potential problems of RV 120v wiring. I know there are many thousands of RVs running without any trouble and folks have used the factory installed wiring for the past 50 years and no problems. I think that's great.

When I rebuilt a small travel trailer last year I replaced all 120v outlets and switches with residential style devices. Several of the devices I pulled out of the wall had burn areas, but had not "failed" at least yet. I will be replacing all 120v devices in my 5th wheeler with high quality outlets and switches. When you use any wire nut in a RV be sure to wrap a good quality electrical tape around the nut and the first inch or so of wire. The RV is a much more hostile environment than you S&B home.

SuperGewl · 12-05-2016, 12:59 AM

Only when it's too cold for the Heat Pumps to maintain, unless we are not plugged in to AC.
Use it that's what it's for. You should have a CO detector already installed. Just make sure to do your seasonal checks on it to ensure it's operability.
These things are Self contained units and count as your second home if you don't already have one.
May the HEAT be with you