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Old 11-30-2021, 11:32 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by arcaguy View Post
First off I think most of the so-called "vandalism" is really the result of the pin falling out on it's own for some reason. One solution I have come up with is purchasing 3/4 inch Master locks that are keyed alike. If you search the Internet for Master padlock keyed alike you should be able to find something. I would go for the solid brass ones for corrosion resistance. Good luck.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrascal View Post
As for the cause of my battery going all acid - I don't know. I will keep my eye on it and if it happens again (with a new battery) then I'll look into whether its the bus charge line or the car. I'm hoping it was just the battery gone bad.

As for the missing pin, again I don't know how it happened, but it did (while on the road - no stops). I replaced it with one of my other (locking type) pins. As I don't like carrying extra keys I will return to that system - once I gain another pin (or even a bent nail).

Pic shows the type I lost.

These two failures have shown me I need to check everything each time I stop - or don't stop.

Glad no fire, and that your pin actually did not drop out...

On the tow bar, some more info sharing (And $02, and other opinions will vary!):

> CRV with BlueOx Baseplate and Stirling All Terrain two bars. The Stirling has the BluOx knuckle adapters.

> I first used the BlueOx locking pins (Round locking ends.)
- Found one lock had fallen off, and no spare, so used a wad of Masking Tape around the pin for the short distant of travel we had to complete that day (About 20 more miles, had stopped to top off fuel. And found the lost lock during an inspection walk around.)
- Replaced with another same kind of Locking BluOX pin

> A few years later, driving thru Portland in of course later afternoon traffic. The lock came off, and the pin fell out, and the CRV was swaying back and forth until I could work over from the second lane to get to the shoulder. We disconnected the CRV, and the Wife followed me to our next park.

> Some damage to the rubber bumper, and the Stirling bar was bent. It was a 5K Lbs unit, and instead of sending it in for a rebuild and inspection, I elected to replace it with a 10K Lbs unit to support a future heavier Toad.

> The Eugene, OR place I bought the new Stirling, recommended I make two changes to my towing habits (Which we'd been doing for 7-8 years by this time.)

1) Put the metal base of the Pins towards the center when hooking up. (We had always out them on the outside, as we thought it looked a bit cleaner then having the lock with cap over the end.) The said that they moving of the toad from left to right behind the coach, put an 'outward' (Towards the Left/Right sides) pressure on the pins. The base is solid, and can handle the loads/stress of these 'outward's' pressure better then Locks and Pins.

2) They felt the Locks wear out after a while. And recommended either locking padlocks, or the Circle Clip that you have posted in this picture.

It's been about 4 years since this change. New Stirling, and Base of Pins toward the Center of the car, and using Circle Clips (We do not like to 'lock' the Toad to the coach when towing.).

And while we've always walked our coach at each stop, and run the CRV thru it's Toad shifting the transmission procedure too. We're now stopping at Rest Stops at least once every 2-3 hours, even if we did not really have a 'nature's' need to stop...

That's my $.02!

Best to all,
Smitty
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Old 11-30-2021, 01:13 PM   #17
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can someone please clarify how and *whether* you can use a padlock to replace the retaining pins (the ones that connect the tow arms to the baseplate tabs?

Specifically, are the diameters of the padlock armature sufficiently close to the diameter of the pins .... and *more importantly*, how do we know that the armature of the padlocks is sufficiently strong to not break under the stresses put on them during towing????

Pictures would help a lot....
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Old 11-30-2021, 02:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by MN_Traveler View Post
can someone please clarify how and *whether* you can use a padlock to replace the retaining pins (the ones that connect the tow arms to the baseplate tabs?

Specifically, are the diameters of the padlock armature sufficiently close to the diameter of the pins .... and *more importantly*, how do we know that the armature of the padlocks is sufficiently strong to not break under the stresses put on them during towing????

Pictures would help a lot....
I bought locks sold by Roadmaster for their tow bars.
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Old 12-05-2021, 03:50 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Wrascal;6000997]As for the cause of my battery going all acid - I don't know. I will keep my eye on it and if it happens again (with a new battery) then I'll look into whether its the bus charge line or the car. I'm hoping it was just the battery gone bad.

As for the missing pin, again I don't know how it happened, but it did (while on the road - no stops). I replaced it with one of my other (locking type) pins. As I don't like carrying extra keys I will return to that system - once I gain another pin (or even a bent nail).

Pic shows the type I lost.

These two failures have shown me I need to check everything each time I stop - or don't stop.[/QUOTE

Have the same issue several years back. There is a correct way and a wrong way to set those pins. I now use keyed locks and have never lost one since. Btw they do fail from time to time.
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Old 12-05-2021, 03:58 PM   #20
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We normally don't stop except to eat lunch in rig while traveling. If we do have a plan to stop enroute and be away from MH & toad for any length of time, I put padlocks in place of the snap pins to secure toad.
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Old 12-05-2021, 03:58 PM   #21
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Here's the padlock I use. I don't use the lock on the tow pin - I just wanted it there to keep someone from stealing the tow bar rig. It's the same diameter as the tow bar pin, so should work either place. I suspect that the steel on the padlock is much stronger than the locking pin.
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:03 PM   #22
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When you get your replacement attach a small cable to it and the pin. This will keep them together. I lost a pin and lock pin in Lake Tahoe, a real challenge to find a replacement.
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:06 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrascal View Post
A few days ago we stopped at a mid-point to visit with my daughter.

That stop led me to redue the tow procedure on my CRV; where I found it wouldn't start. Opening the hood to jump start it I found the battery all acid'd over, a condition I observed two months prior and thought I'd cleaned/resolved. With a jumper cable it started but I knew that evening I'd try and find a replacement battery ($108). Got lucky here too, Turkey eve and I found an open Walmart, 6PM arrival time.

But the scary part is when I went to the hitch where I found one of the locking cross-pins missing and the actual locking cross bar almost out of the two pieces. Fortunately I had more from a different lock-pin and was able to fix it as well.

The good new was all this happened in a truck stop that had cheap(er) diesel ... $3.49. I plan on revisiting them Wed (on my return trip).
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrascal View Post
As for the cause of my battery going all acid - I don't know. I will keep my eye on it and if it happens again (with a new battery) then I'll look into whether its the bus charge line or the car. I'm hoping it was just the battery gone bad.

As for the missing pin, again I don't know how it happened, but it did (while on the road - no stops). I replaced it with one of my other (locking type) pins. As I don't like carrying extra keys I will return to that system - once I gain another pin (or even a bent nail).

Pic shows the type I lost.

These two failures have shown me I need to check everything each time I stop - or don't stop.
Be advised, the round clip pins that come with a Blueox Towbar, (attach towbar to baseplate) can snap over the right way or in reverse-the wrong way. Make sure the round bail is snapped correctly and tight against the pin.
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:25 PM   #25
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My daughter rented a trailer, two blocks later, as stopping at stoplight, realized receiver had fallen out; another driver gave her a pin and she bought key-lock at closest auto parts store. It HAPPENS, FOLKS.. BEWARE
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:11 PM   #26
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I had one of these locking pins mysteriously fall out also Don't understand how this could possibly happen, but it did. fortunately I noticed it on my walk-around during a stop and the main pin had moved, but was still in place. I dodged another bullet and avoided a disaster. Do a walk-around and CHECK ALL TOWING PINS on every rest stop!
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:58 PM   #27
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Missing pins

On several occasions after stopping at a rest area (rv side) I noticed that various pins missing ( receiver hitch, tow dolly pin) since then every one is a locking type. No problems since.
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:01 PM   #28
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For the battery issue, I installed a switch to disconnect the battery from the coach power. Had to jump start the toad a couple times before installing the switch. The "manual" for our Roadmaster tow bar and electrical hook-up said the toad did not need a battery disconnect. Whatever. Zero battery issues after putting in the disconnect.

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GM directs that the battery be disconnected in the Chevy and GMC pickups.

Something related to steering sensor, I think.
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