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11-27-2018, 08:39 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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Does anyone make a Ladder stand-off where the tube is welded to base plate?
My ladder keeps loosening at the "nut inserts" for the ladder stand-offs. The style ladder I have has four stand-offs and there is a nut insert at each end of the tube. It's easy to tighten the outer nut since I can get to the phillips head screw, but the inner nut can't be reached without removing the ladder (the top mounts for the ladder are "Dicored" to the roof. So it's not easy to remove ladder).
All the inner nuts are now loose (the ladder shifts/sinks down when I step on it). I don't think they will ever stay tight as the nuts are held in the tube by friction fit.
I would like to replace these stand-offs with a type where the tube is welded to the base plate (only uses an outer nut insert). Does anyone make such a stand-off?
If there are no factory made welded stand-offs available maybe I can take the stand-offs to a welding shop, or perhaps I could fill the tube end/nut with epoxy (?).
What do you think?
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11-27-2018, 08:53 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Metamora, MI
Posts: 5,294
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Possibly simpler would be to put a threaded rod the length of the standoff with nuts on both ends. Stainless would be nice.
It can be tig welded but the welder would have to be pretty good technique to make it look nice and solid.
Another thought is to put a cross screw to hold the friction nut insert in place. That's going to be the easiest solution. Off center or a shallow screw so the cross screw doesn't hit the primary screw. Hardest part would be to find exactly where the friction nut is in the tube to locate the cross screw.
__________________
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
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11-27-2018, 09:01 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB
My ladder keeps loosening at the "nut inserts" for the ladder stand-offs. The style ladder I have has four stand-offs and there is a nut insert at each end of the tube. It's easy to tighten the outer nut since I can get to the phillips head screw, but the inner nut can't be reached without removing the ladder (the top mounts for the ladder are "Dicored" to the roof. So it's not easy to remove ladder).
All the inner nuts are now loose (the ladder shifts/sinks down when I step on it). I don't think they will ever stay tight as the nuts are held in the tube by friction fit.
I would like to replace these stand-offs with a type where the tube is welded to the base plate (only uses an outer nut insert). Does anyone make such a stand-off?
If there are no factory made welded stand-offs available maybe I can take the stand-offs to a welding shop, or perhaps I could fill the tube end/nut with epoxy (?).
What do you think?
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Not sure where you're located CountryB but, if you were close, I'd buzz them up for ya, being that you're fellow Hydralift user. But, if you can't find a local weld shop, as a second approach, plan B, I'd maybe use Stainless Steel rivets, if they'd work in that application. I'd have to run out and take a look at ours to see any differences.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '18 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sports DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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11-27-2018, 09:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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Thanks Dav and Scott. Those are some good ideas.
BTW - I'm in central FL, Scott. I believe your in AZ now - so not too close.
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11-27-2018, 10:04 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 7,230
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Believe you'll find the inside push in type nuts rusted in half......no sealer ever used by factory.....I pulled mine off and made my own threaded rod bolts......used stainless Acorn nuts on the outside with stainless flat washers contoured to match tubing size, and sealed both ends of stands.......wait till you see how thin these ladders are....
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11-27-2018, 02:57 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,243
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CountryB-
I took the whole thing off the coach. Bought new star nuts and stainless hardware. Put a stainless flathead machine screw through the baseplate, then a nylon lock nut, the star nut and finally another nylon lock nut. Drove the star nut into the standoff. Covered the entire base on the coach wall side with clear awning repair tape. Drove the outboard star nut into the standoff. Drilled three small holes in the underside of the standoff, one at each end and one in the middle. These allow me to squirt rust preventative inside the standoff once or twice a year, the problem bring the star nuts will rust (again), otherwise. A round-head stainless steel machine screw holds the ladder to the standoff. Use “Oscar” rivets to fasten base to coach where blind; otherwise, through-bolt with stainless machine screws, big washers (or backup plate) and nylon lock nuts. That is how I did it.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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11-28-2018, 06:03 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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Mark, your fix may be the direction I go (I need to study some more what your wrote to understand it).
But Bob you got me thinking, maybe I can just eliminate the internal nuts and just use a long threaded rod.
It will depend on what the end of the baseplate looks like (does it have a depression that nut can sit in, or is it flat?). I have not purchased new standoff yet, or removed my current ones to see what the underside (part that rests against coach body) of base plate looks like.
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