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Old 07-16-2018, 11:10 AM   #15
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What does this lower circuit board look like? Can you post a picture of it?
Thanx, Jimmy

Sure Google is your friend.

This is what mine looks like.

I did not confirm that this is the correct board.

You will want to do that.

https://www.amazon.com/Dinosaur-Elec...58BZMY7QBWGNHG
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:29 PM   #16
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Did fridge cool down ?


Link of circuit board is of a Dinosaur Electronics replacement...NOT Dometic OEM


Dino boards are GREAT....IF replacement of a board is needed
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:37 AM   #17
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Well Guys:
Here is the results of my direct powering of the heating elements. After 12 hours the fridge was at 44 and the freezer was at 7. After 24 hours the fridge was at 33 and the freezer was at 1 degree. So coaches what does that tell me to do?
Thanx again,
Jimmy
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:41 AM   #18
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Well Guys:
Here is the results of my direct powering of the heating elements. After 12 hours the fridge was at 44 and the freezer was at 7. After 24 hours the fridge was at 33 and the freezer was at 1 degree. So coaches what does that tell me to do?
Thanx again,
Jimmy

Hook element leads back up to circuit board ...turn fridge on and see if it can maintain temps.
Cooling unit is functioning....problem could be with thermistor/circuit board etc.


If food compartment temp goes back up then unplug thermistor leads from circuit board and operate fridge overnight .....should see food compartment temps go back down w/o thermistor plugged in
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:11 AM   #19
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OK, I will do that and check back in in the morning. It looks to me that the board might be fried. See the area around the buss fuse.
Jimmy
http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1531844617
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:34 AM   #20
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Buy a new Dino Board and replace that one..... Dino Micro P-711



MICRO P-711 page
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Old 07-17-2018, 02:47 PM   #21
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I checked at 1:00 and the temps have crept up from 33.4 to 34.3 in the fridge and 1.0 to 3.0 in the freezer. I am attaching a better pic of the board. I will order a new one.
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Old 07-17-2018, 03:04 PM   #22
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I disconnected the thermistor at 2:00 and the temps had crept up a little to 34.7 and 3 but with an upward pointing arrow indicating it is rising.
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:01 PM   #23
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I tested the thermistor. Place end in ice water wait 2-3 minutes, expect 7-10K ohms resistance. Got 8.8K so I think the thermistor is OK.
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:31 PM   #24
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That is a lot of heat around the 5A fuse (AC Power)


Time for new board.....especially knowing cooling unit IS functioning


Thermistors can 'test' OK but still not perform
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:25 PM   #25
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I have been following this thread as I have exactly the same issue with my Dometic NDR1292 as the OP. I also did as Old Biscuit suggested and direct wired the heaters bypassing the board. My freezer stays around zero and fridge temps are mostly in the 40's, with an overnight dip down to 39. It's been over 24 hours now.

Jimmy, i'm curious as to the outside where you're at? I'm in the Florida Keys and it's about about 90. Sounds like your fridge cooled down nicely bypassing the board and mine didn't...so my cooling unit is bad? Thanks
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:37 PM   #26
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I have been following this thread as I have exactly the same issue with my Dometic NDR1292 as the OP. I also did as Old Biscuit suggested and direct wired the heaters bypassing the board. My freezer stays around zero and fridge temps are mostly in the 40's, with an overnight dip down to 39. It's been over 24 hours now.

Jimmy, i'm curious as to the outside where you're at? I'm in the Florida Keys and it's about about 90. Sounds like your fridge cooled down nicely bypassing the board and mine didn't...so my cooling unit is bad? Thanks
I have had similar results in 100 degree low humidity situations.

I open my refrigerator hatch and put a small fan in there to blow on the coils.

That seems to help the refer side. Your freezer is fine.

The refer should be between 36 and 40 degrees to do its job, ambient temps disregarded. Yours just sounds stressed.

But you might want to invest in a new lower board also.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I have been following this thread as I have exactly the same issue with my Dometic NDR1292 as the OP. I also did as Old Biscuit suggested and direct wired the heaters bypassing the board. My freezer stays around zero and fridge temps are mostly in the 40's, with an overnight dip down to 39. It's been over 24 hours now.

Jimmy, i'm curious as to the outside where you're at? I'm in the Florida Keys and it's about about 90. Sounds like your fridge cooled down nicely bypassing the board and mine didn't...so my cooling unit is bad? Thanks

0*F in freezer is very good
40's ? 42*F or lower is acceptable in food compartment but borderline


Two questions:
Are BOTH heater elements operating?
Both have to function in order to generate enough heat to turn the ammonia into a vapor in sufficient quantities





Is the 'LAT' switch ON?
(Low Ambient Temp...located beneath top decorative panel where control panel is......next to Climate Control Switch)


LAT.....keeps light in food compartment ON generating heat.
Used when outside air temps are 50*F or below.
Above 50*F it just causes HEAT which has to be removed.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:43 AM   #28
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I ordered a new board. I shut it all down for now until I install the board and see how it works. One other thing, I was told by the people who sold me the motor home that I should always leave the fridge running to prevent clogging. Is there any validity to this?
Jimmy
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