Community Forums

336muffin · 01-12-2013, 06:26 AM

How many incandescent, fluorescent bulbs and Halogen lights were used before lights out? Was the TV and other items used? Or did I not catch that?

Papa_Jim · 01-13-2013, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorlininc

Is a residential refrig the same as a house frige? Doesn't it have a compressor? In a house, a frige has its own 20 amp circuit. The start up of the compressor is a huge draw. Around 12 to 15 amps at 110v. The draw after compressor startup at 110v is about 7 amps after start up. All depending how often and how long you open the doors for, will dictate how much it comes on. I can see the fridge easily depleting the batteries if it turns on too often. You also may want to check the temperature settings on the frige.

When I was considering installing a residential fridge, I had the same misgivings. Once installed, I used a Kill-A-Watt meter in the receptacle to find out exactly how much current the new fridge was actually using. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that although the circuit was 20 amp, the fridge compressor only drew 1.43 amps during start up, and .76 amps after start up. I was very pleased to note that with the doors closed, the total amperage draw for an entire night was 1.46 amps. I then realized that making it through the night would not be a concern, even when figuring out the actual current draw from the batteries with the fridge running off the inverter.

Gorlininc · 01-13-2013, 06:43 AM

Hi
That just doesn't sound right or possible. I think your decimal point is off by one. Should be 14.3 amps on start up and running at 7.6 amps. That's why they require a 20 amp circuit. That could easily kill house batteries if it went on too often.
Rick

Dennis_K · 01-13-2013, 10:11 AM

I have a 22.6 CuFt Frigidaire that was installed by Monaco. One Spec sheet states 8.5 amps required and another shows 1 to 1.4 running. Actual observation on the amp meter fluctuates between 1 and 2 amps. So the low amperage draws are true.

Gorlininc · 01-13-2013, 10:20 AM

That is a low draw for a compressor. I didn't know they made such low amperage units. I don't understand why the two different specs. But if you measured it with an amp meter then I stand corrected.
Rick

Gorlininc · 01-13-2013, 10:22 AM

I don't understand why there are two specifications. But if you measured the amps with an amp meter, and that's what you got. Then I stand corrected. Not sure how they do that with a compressor.

rssnape · 01-13-2013, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gorlininc

I don't understand why there are two specifications. But if you measured the amps with an amp meter, and that's what you got. Then I stand corrected. Not sure how they do that with a compressor.

There is more load starting than running.

bukzin · 01-14-2013, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbones

Wow poor op. not one reply was helpful to this newbie. What you need to do is go over your settings on the inverter charger, especially the LBCO (low battery cut off) I would expect that it is set too low, and it allowed the batteries to be drawn too far down. Additionally, you need to manage your running load on the inverter. TVs, and sat boxes are notorious power hogs. Look at your inverter display, and see what your running load is with the genny off. You can then use the display to isolate load. Another thing to look for is if you leave a coffee maker on, they will draw you down fast. Last if it exceptionally cold, the furnace fans are a big draw. I would suspect that if it is a late model coach with a residential refer, it should easily make it through the night. One other thing, you may want to check your batteries. You could have a bad one in the bunch. Good luck.

The low battery cut off is very handy. I found the owners manual online based on my model number. Lots of good info there.

There is also a factory default setting of all of its parameters (charge voltage, etc)

Let us know what you learn.

bukzin · 01-14-2013, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgscott4

One of the best things I purchased for my MH is this battery monitor. Cost about $200 with the shunt and wiring. It will continually tell you the state of charge of your batteries. You watch the current draw of any appliance you turn on. It will tell you how much "juice" is going in the battery too. It is nice to know your DC system is working properly. Highly recommend it.

Bogart Engineering TM-2025-RV - TriMetric 2025 12/24/48 Volt Battery System Monitor - RV Version

Can it be set up to monitor both house and chassis banks?

Is yours set up that way? Did you install it yourself?

Thanks

bukzin · 01-14-2013, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwaynedmonnett

When I have the inverter on for extended periods, I unplug the MW. Mine draws about 6 Amps from the battery side. Over nite, that could be close to 50 Amp Hours of wasted energy. The TV, even off has a small amount of power draw as well.. Some one needs to invent moon panels for the night time.

Dwayne

What is meant by 'MW' ?

Thanks

bukzin · 01-14-2013, 10:11 AM

Here is some helpful info on batteries and power management...

RVcruzer.com - Breaker Panel and EMS System Installation

Gilleshps · 02-23-2013, 01:14 PM

Yes it can monitor voltage only on a second battery, like your chassis battery. Works excellent! I have been watching mine for 3 days now like a new toy.