Easy to drive Short, Class A, do they exist?

[F53Challenge]

Originally Posted by OregonJim

https://rv.org/blogs/news/short-whee...o-hand-in-hand

"According to RVCG, under 51% is extremely dangerous; 51% to 54% is dangerous under many road condition and not adequate for general safety; 55% to 56% is marginal; 57% and over is usually steady on the road under most conditions. The higher the wheelbase-to-length ratio the safer it gets."

I agree. If only Winnebago knew.

[D Gardiner]

Originally Posted by mike brez

Not sure this will make any sence but look farther down the road and point the coach don't drive it.

Doing exactly this made a huge difference in my driving experience.

What I found:
I caught myself watching the car directly in front of me, and constantly checking the mirrors to see if I was in my lane.
Doing this had me constantly correcting the steering wheel.

I had to train myself to look far down the road. I now look about 10-12 car lengths ahead, or at least 300-500 feet.
Now I check the mirrors for traffic instead of lane position.

This tactic has greatly helped in anticipating when I need to slow and brake in traffic.

BTW, we are at 49.58% with our 178" P32 Chevrolet coach at 359" total length.
Yes, the dreaded ill handling P30 Chevy chassis with 19.5" wheels.

With that said, our coach is well balanced with 43% front and 57% rear weight ratio, and a side to side load variance of .93%.

Driving this coach through the twisty mountains on California Highway 17 is a dream. High side winds on I-15 heading to Zion was challenging, but easily manageable. We are adding a SuperSteer SS300U to the rear suspension to minimize rear leaf spring flex.

[F53Challenge]

Originally Posted by Massparanoia

Where is the water tank located? If it’s toward the front maybe try driving with a full tank of water and see if that makes a difference?

Water tank behind rear axle, and do travel with minimum water for this reason. Unfortunately, many things I cannot move are behind the rear axle, fuel tank, slide and generator. Thanks for the suggestion.

[F53Challenge]

Originally Posted by engine103

Okay, let's try something different here that "might" reduce some of your sawing action a little until you can come up with something else. How is your seat position to your steering wheel? I mean, how far back are you sitting. I'm 6'3 and in my pickup truck, I sit as far back as possible with my arm nearly at full extension. This creates a long fulcrum which will increase the steering wheel sensitivity. In my MH, I found that this position would not work as I was constantly correcting steering wheel position. Have you ever noticed how a NASCAR driver sits behind the wheel? Well you don't have to sit that close but if you can move the seat as far forward as comfortable, you will reduce the fulcrum moment, and you will drop your shoulders resulting in more positive control of the wheel. Other things will be unchanged such as the vehicles length vs wheelbase ratio but you will be a lot more comfortable. Try it, nothing to lose and it's free! Jim E. OKC

Brilliant, I am running out of money and items to try. I do try to run in the center lane when possible, contain my speed and look down the road. Had not tried sitting a bit closer to the wheel. I'll give it a shot. Tks.

[F53Challenge]

Originally Posted by YC1

How much free play is there in the steering. That is, does it seem to drift one way and then you have to input steering pressure?

Our Monaco/HR ramblers using certain steering boxes can be absolute white knuckle drivers.

No free play seen from steering input to steering box compared to Pitman arm. It does behave as you mentioned, even though I am looking down the road, the coach will start to wander either left or right, I will make the slightest adjustment to return to the center of my lane knowing the next move will likely be to move the wheel the other direction. Nothing like a c class and a 5th wheel toy hauler I had previously.

[murphy55378]

I have a Winnebago Vista 27N. Length is 28.5". Purchased last May and based on past experience I was also concerned about how it would handle. Chassis comes standard with a front track bar and front and rear sway bars. I was actually surprised at how well it does handle. Was prepared to add a rear track bar and do the cheap handling fix if necessary but so far I don't believe any of those things will be necessary.

[penrod1]

Originally Posted by Ludmilla

Yes, your shorter wheel base relative to the length of the coach causes the problems you are describing. When looking for another coach, divide the wheel base by the overall length. You want a result as big as possible. .5 or better is what you want to look for. Get as high as you can.

I do not understand why the manufacturer's make coaches with those long overhangs. They cause all sorts of issues including handling and hitting bottom.

I agree,do the math big difference length to wheelbase ratio,otherwise you get the tail wagging the dog symptom

[penrod1]

Originally Posted by Ludmilla

Yes, your shorter wheel base relative to the length of the coach causes the problems you are describing. When looking for another coach, divide the wheel base by the overall length. You want a result as big as possible. .5 or better is what you want to look for. Get as high as you can.

I do not understand why the manufacturer's make coaches with those long overhangs. They cause all sorts of issues including handling and hitting bottom.

Do the length to wheelbase ratio,lots of good info out there

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by mike brez

Not sure this will make any sence but look farther down the road and point the coach don't drive it.

It does make sense. Subtle input on the controls are all it takes.

[Massparanoia]

Originally Posted by F53Challenge

6 new Michelin tires, Koni Shocks, 3 different alignment shops, front and rear track bars, chf, additional rear sway bar, air tabs, kelderman air ride suspension, independently inflated air bags @ each corner, front leaf springs have urethane bushings. TRW Steering box, universal to steering shaft, king pins all reviewed and determined to be good along with rest of front end steering and suspension components. Had a Safety Steer, removed it as something else to try. Steering wheel does want to return to center. Last alignment: camber .5, Caster 5.0, Toe 1/16.

Certified Scale, Front 5,420 rear 10,800 at the time of weighing shy 20 gallons fresh water, shy 20 gallons of fuel, fridge empty, not loaded to go on the road. gvwr is 16k.


Thanks for your interest.

If I’m reading this right, then you’re overloaded. This could be contributing to the poor handling, even if it is only a couple hundred pounds over. But I do agree with what others have said, and it’s the wheelbase that’s hurting you the most. With all the parts you’ve thrown at it, it should ride like a Cadillac now. I know you like the length, but stepping into something a little longer with a better wheelbase might serve you better.

[YC1]

Originally Posted by F53Challenge

No free play seen from steering input to steering box compared to Pitman arm. It does behave as you mentioned, even though I am looking down the road, the coach will start to wander either left or right, I will make the slightest adjustment to return to the center of my lane knowing the next move will likely be to move the wheel the other direction. Nothing like a c class and a 5th wheel toy hauler I had previously.

I feel your pain. My brand new 2008 HR Endeavor was dangerous to drive. Not just uncomfortable.

There are two threads on this that you might find interesting reading.

All of the mods on this 42 footer and it is still not perfect. It drives just fine now and can handle any road conditions or winds but still does slight S turns down the road. I think the toad contributes a bit to that though.

I have a Watts link in the front and have not added a rear one yet.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mona...on-249622.html

[Oldman5145]

My 2017 Thor Hurricane 34J is a pleasure to drive. We now have 18000 enjoyable miles on it. I will park it when wind speeds are at 30+ MPH.

Possibly the suspension with the mods is too stiff? I keep my tire air pressure at 80 lbs and they seem to be showing very little signs of wear. I can't be of much help to you...maybe the larger coaches are more mannerable on the road?

[belfast1949]

Originally Posted by AITG

You are right about the rear overhang being a problem. We have a Newmar 2702. The only "handling modification" is a front end alignment. In two years we have put 17,000 miles on it and we're very satisfied with the handling.
Any Class A gas chassis is going to have some body roll and sitting higher than a Class C is going to accentuate that. But ours tracks straight and requires very little steering correction.

We traded in our Thor Axis 24.1 (25' on a Ford F350 Chassis). The Thor was tiring to drive. I hesitated to move up to something bigger but have found our Newmar 2903 on the F53 chassis is actually much less tiring to drive. My hands do not tingle now and after 6-7 hours on the road we pack it in for the day and I still feel fresh. In the Axis after 6 hours I was done in. Our Newmar tracks straight, much less push pull from the Semi's passing and we are less at the mercy of cross winds. Thought of suspension upgrades but decides none needed.

[wildtoad]

My 31ft drives just fine. It was a bit of a rough ride over crummy roads but seems to be better now.

1. Did the Cheap Handling Fix front and rear.
2. Replace stock Ford spec’d Bilsteins with after market Bilsteins.
3. Weighed MH and lowered tire pressures to match weight.
4. Started carrying full water and fuel to add weight on the springs.
5. SLOWED DOWN. Set cruise between 60-65.

Nice pleasant ride, quiet too. ( except when it needs to drop down two gears)