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08-18-2021, 03:07 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 43
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Electrical Issues
05 HR Endeavor 36' DP; Have new transfer switches; new battery boost fuse and solenoid; new coach batteries; new inverter; chassis batteries being charged direct to my home (11.9) and coach batteries being charged separately direct thru 50 amp cable;
DC power to awning/steps works; ignition key barely works (dead batt); no radio, cig lighter, interior lights, generator won't kick over;
AC shore power connected and I have power to all plugs, breakers; EMS panel - no power, no LED's on top panel; lower panel LED's on showing charging and inverting; whats weird is that coach lights not coming on when shore power is on?? bedroom slide should retract....no power.
All was working fine when we came back from cross country trip last week; now this happened! Help appreciated....thanks
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08-19-2021, 08:55 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Central Washington
Posts: 159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsilas
05 HR Endeavor 36' DP; Have new transfer switches; new battery boost fuse and solenoid; new coach batteries; new inverter; chassis batteries being charged direct to my home (11.9) and coach batteries being charged separately direct thru 50 amp cable;
DC power to awning/steps works; ignition key barely works (dead batt); no radio, cig lighter, interior lights, generator won't kick over;
AC shore power connected and I have power to all plugs, breakers; EMS panel - no power, no LED's on top panel; lower panel LED's on showing charging and inverting; whats weird is that coach lights not coming on when shore power is on?? bedroom slide should retract....no power.
All was working fine when we came back from cross country trip last week; now this happened! Help appreciated....thanks
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Unfortunately this may not be a good place to troubleshoot your problems. You have something going on but it will probably takes eyes on the rig and the systems to figure out what has happened since your cross country trip.
"Chassis batteries being charged directly to my home (11.9)"? Not sure what charged directly to my home means but if 11.9 is volts that is a nearly dead battery. I'd start looking as to what is not charging battery first.
You have a long list of parts replaced I assume before your trip? If after the trip something did not get connected correctly or if before you were not charging fully during trip? If a shop replaced parts I'd be going back to them and letting them figure out what they did wrong.
I know my battery wiring and interconnections are complicated, lots of wires going multiple places. It would be easy to get them crossed if you are not careful.
Good luck!
__________________
2019 Outdoors RV Blackstone 270RKS Titanium
04 Country Coach 33' Allure Seaside ISL 400
24' Wildcat 5th Wheel -- Lance Truck Camper x 2
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08-20-2021, 04:07 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,563
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Quote:
chassis batteries being charged direct to my home (11.9) and coach batteries being charged separately direct thru 50 amp cable;
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Like Windward, I don't know what either of these statements mean. 11.9v is a nearly dead battery, so not surprising you can't get much to work. Whatever "direct" means, it ain't working. And what is this 50A cable? The shore cord or something else "direct"?
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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08-20-2021, 04:18 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
Like Windward, I don't know what either of these statements mean. 11.9v is a nearly dead battery, so not surprising you can't get much to work. Whatever "direct" means, it ain't working. And what is this 50A cable? The shore cord or something else "direct"?
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Yeah he knows what he is trying to say in his head, but I also have no idea what he is talking about. Probably needs to sit and write out the problem and what he is trying to do, then read it himself to see if it makes sense.
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey
39K
Cat C7
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08-20-2021, 08:18 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 37
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Thinking about it logically, the things you list as not working could all be powered from the vehicle battery(s), not the house batteries. Since that one is almost dead, that is not surprising. I think you are saying the vehicle battery is being charged from a charger plugged into a wall outlet, not from the 50 amp cable. Once it is fully charged, try those failing items again, and you may find they all work fine.
The two DC circuits are independent from each other. (Except for charging ckts which may or may not exist.)
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08-21-2021, 04:21 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 11,403
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Welcome to the forum: Don't be discouraged because it will take a few questions as suggested to sort things. It may be something simple..
Assuming that things worked during your trip that means many things were working correctly. It does not mean that all things were working correctly and could have been masked by the alternator providing charging voltage at times. Or the generator running etc.
Your issue could be as simple as cycling a switch near the entry of the RV. This switch could control lots of things you mention.
You will often hear the switch called the Salesman Switch. May as well learn some of the slang along the way here.
This switch controls a relay/solenoid somewhere in the RV and can control a lot of items.
That low voltage may be because the engine/coach battery switch has not been turned off while parked for a few days. It does not take long if there is NOT a charging source
Your year model may NOT charge the engine batteries when connected to shoreline. It is a function added in later years.
You may have a store bought charge to resolve that issue but more clarity is in order.
A voltmeter is your friend and there are plenty of videos on how to use them but I suspect based on your report that you can take basic measurements.
You need to address that 11 volt issue because often solving an obvious problem eliminates other issues.
Find the 12.5-14 volt point on your coach batteries. Carefully connect a jumper (only one needed), to the positive side of the engine batteries. Be sure to let the air in the battery compartment vent and fan it with something to clear any fumes before doing this. Safety goggles and a nearby source of fresh water in case of an accident is in order.
Once you have the battery systems paralleled let things charge and go to that switch mentioned and we can start fresh.
Another way IF your systems are functioning correctly is to prop the emergency/aux start button. This will combine the battery systems without a jumper cable. But may not be designed for continuous duty. It could be and likely is so propping it for a few hours will not hurt it.
Take a picture of the battery compartment and post that here so we can have additional information.
About the jumper cable, use one for jump starting vehicles. It needs to handle a lot of current. Do NOT try to start the RV with this jumper cable until you have charged the thing for a few hours.
Again, Welcome to the forum. There is an incredible depth of knowledge here and after playing (20 questions) we will get to the root of the problem. These are complex systems and snowflakes as well.
Cheers
__________________
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008
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