F53 Completed Brake Fluid Flush

[hjabernathy]

I certainly am no expert on brake fluids SHADOW5501, so I’ll stand corrected. I wasn’t aware that there’s a DOT 5 and a 5.1. I will be interested to do some research and see what systems use 5. I had read that 5.1 was developed for brake systems that generate high temperatures such as occur in heavy motorhomes. Am I misinformed there also?

Since you mentioned it, one of my bicycles uses 5.1 (SRAM brakes) and the other Shimano Fluid (Shimano brakes obviously) which is mineral oil based. All of this is superfluous information.

I would ask why you think BS3513 who had DOT 3 added instead of 5.1 experienced the issue they did if 3 and 5.1 are compatible. What happened? It sure sounds to me like their brake fluid gelled which generated increased viscosity and thereby made it harder for the fluid to pass through the system. But hey, that’s simply an educated guess.

I’d also ask what you think about my suggestion that the system be thoroughly and adequately cleaned of “contaminated” fluid. Do you think simply flushing the system with 5.1 will alleviate the problem?

Hans

[gatorb8]

When I had an F53 I installed Speed Bleeders in the calipers. Easy and quick one man job.

also installed in my current E350 SD

[Shadow5501]

Originally Posted by hjabernathy

I certainly am no expert on brake fluids SHADOW5501, so I’ll stand corrected. I wasn’t aware that there’s a DOT 5 and a 5.1. I will be interested to do some research and see what systems use 5. I had read that 5.1 was developed for brake systems that generate high temperatures such as occur in heavy motorhomes. Am I misinformed there also?

Since you mentioned it, one of my bicycles uses 5.1 (SRAM brakes) and the other Shimano Fluid (Shimano brakes obviously) which is mineral oil based. All of this is superfluous information.

I would ask why you think BS3513 who had DOT 3 added instead of 5.1 experienced the issue they did if 3 and 5.1 are compatible. What happened? It sure sounds to me like their brake fluid gelled which generated increased viscosity and thereby made it harder for the fluid to pass through the system. But hey, that’s simply an educated guess.

I’d also ask what you think about my suggestion that the system be thoroughly and adequately cleaned of “contaminated” fluid. Do you think simply flushing the system with 5.1 will alleviate the problem?

Hans

DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are all compatible and can be mixed. It will function fine, but you loose the advantage of the higher boiling point of the higher rated fluid. Perhaps the previous poster boiled their brake fluid in the mountains? It’s certainly possible to do so in an F53 motorhome. As for dark and sludgy - that’s usually just an age thing.

I’m not aware on any mass produced vehicles that use DOT5 silicon fluid. I think it’s mostly a race / track car thing, or conversion from the DOT glycol chemistry based fluids to avoid water absorption and subsequent rusting for infrequently driven cars.

I don’t claim any expertise, just enough knowledge to be slightly dangerous..l

[PDR John]

I have a Power Bleeder that makes fluid flushing very clean and easy. Basically, it's the manual version of the above system.


Install the unit and pump up the pressure. Open the furthest bleeder first, close when clean fluid comes out. Continue until all bleeders have been done.



https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc...%2C166&sr=8-27

[RRR]

Originally Posted by gatorb8

When I had an F53 I installed Speed Bleeders in the calipers. Easy and quick one man job.

also installed in my current E350 SD

I know that Speed Bleeders have been mentioned a lot here. My question is how do you know when you are getting fresh fluid to the cylinder without direct observation?

[hjabernathy]

I feel the same way SHADOW5501, know just enough to be dangerous.

I believe that BS3513 has a Newmar MOHO set an F53 chassis given their moniker. I also have a Newmar, a 34’ Bay Star Sport model. While I have heard of longer F53 chassis with a V10 power-plant, I suspect that mine is one of the longest. My point is that the braking system on my MOHO is put to a maximum test. I never experienced any noticeable issues with my braking system in the 50,000 miles prior to having a complete brake job done, including a brake fluid flush, earlier this year. The fluid was down a bit last year, and I topped it off with DOT 5.1. After the brake job and fluid flush, I did perceive that the brake system seemed to work better. However, this could have been a mental rather than physical effect.

I know that this does not help everyone, particularly BS3513, determine what happened to his brake system or fluid. If it were me, I would find a trustworthy shop to examine the system given that a brake job was done along with topping off the brake fluid. I know that I already suggested this.

I hope BS3513 comes back and lets us know what they chose to do and how things worked out.

[BS3513]

I did not realize that the fluid had to be flushed every 2 years. I have put the brakes to the test over the years, many tris to and from Co. and the mountains in B.C. while pulling a Jeep or P.U. The brake did not fail but I was concerned for sure. When we got to Moab, I pumped out what I could and the refilled. So it might have been age or DOT 3, I'm not sure at this point. But the system will be flushed by me or the professionals I have not determined that. But on the 5.1 bottle it clearly states do not mix brake fluids. Thanks for all of the replies.
Bob

[SafariBen]

If you have fluids in the master cylinder that are suspected of being not compatible, I disconnect the brake lines at the cylinders and flush them that way, don't allow the mix to go into the wheel cylinders. One master cylinder is relatively cheap and easy to replace, four wheel cylinders/calipers are not. That also allows all the old fluid and sediment to drain out the bottom of the cylinders, instead of the top when you flush through the bleeders.

[BS3513]

Originally Posted by SafariBen

If you have fluids in the master cylinder that are suspected of being not compatible, I disconnect the brake lines at the cylinders and flush them that way, don't allow the mix to go into the wheel cylinders. One master cylinder is relatively cheap and easy to replace, four wheel cylinders/calipers are not. That also allows all the old fluid and sediment to drain out the bottom of the cylinders, instead of the top when you flush through the bleeders.

that's a good idea I'll look into it.
tks