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Old 11-08-2016, 07:01 AM   #1
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Fire Suppression

Anyone using a fire suppression system? I have a Norcold Fridge and have seen a company selling a system along with their fridge products which got me concerned and thinking.

This system looks interesting for small tight areas which would be ideal behind the fridge. BlazeCut
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:15 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieRv View Post
Anyone using a fire suppression system? I have a Norcold Fridge and have seen a company selling a system along with their fridge products which got me concerned and thinking.

This system looks interesting for small tight areas which would be ideal behind the fridge. BlazeCut
Looks interesting but I find if they don't advertise the price, I'm pretty sure I cant afford it!
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:23 AM   #3
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Pricing is on Amazon thru a reseller. $110 3' $138 6' etc etc. Seems fair compared to other systems
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:57 AM   #4
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Check Mac the Fire Guy. He has several RV systems. I've used his Halon system in a previous coach with a Norcold and I am using his foam suppression system in my engine bay.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:16 AM   #5
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I originally started looking at these systems but was impressed by the ease of install and size of the BlazeCut Systems and ability to install behind the fridge without removing it
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Old 11-08-2016, 10:48 AM   #6
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Check out Firefight systems. They have both AFFF and inert gas systems.
Fire Fight Products

I have their AFFF suppression system in the engine compartment.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:12 PM   #7
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If I understand this system? The fire starts behind the fridge. The system puts out the fire once it starts, a one time event and could happen with no one even being aware it has happened say during the night. Then once the one time system has put out the original fire and the system is exhausted. Then the fridge LP system restarts the fire, since the flame is out?
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:04 PM   #8
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I put a 6ft Blazecut behind my Dometic 2852. Just for piece of mind. Easy to install with supplied tiewraps.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:11 PM   #9
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My fire suppression answer to the Doometic exploding refrigerators consisted of removing and junking the Doometic and replacing it with a Samsung residential fridge!

Oh, wait, were you asking about fire SUPPRESSION? Or RISK MANAGEMENT to prevent the fire in the FIRST PLACE?
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:28 PM   #10
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Wouldn't a electrical fire with a fridge trip the breaker, hence the fridge wouldn't start up again?
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:47 PM   #11
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Another fire prevention option is to install an ARP , " Automatic Refrigerator Protection " , a add on device that adds a control box and temp sensor that shuts down the refrigerator heat source whenever the tube where the heat source is overheats, before it can trigger damage to the system.

Unlike the Norcold recall box it shuts off slightly above the highest acceptable "normal" temperature and auto-resets. The Norcold recall box hard trips hundreds of degrees above the highest "normal" temperature, and does not prevent high temps due to out of level that cause tubing corrosion. I have had the ARP control for years and the only time it operates is when I park out of level in a parking lot and forget to shut off the refrigerator.

No overheat, no overpressure in the tubing that triggers the coolant rupture. No overheat, no problem where the tubing corrodes from the inside causing the tubing to weaken and more easily rupture.

https://www.arprv.com
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Wouldn't a electrical fire with a fridge trip the breaker, hence the fridge wouldn't start up again?
No. But generally a fire is due to tubing failure and the next time the refrigerator tries to heat the tubing, if the control board survived, the heat stack without coolant in the tubing will quickly overheat to the point it trips the Norcold recall box.
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Old 11-09-2016, 06:40 AM   #13
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Another fire prevention option is to install an ARP , " Automatic Refrigerator Protection " , a add on device that adds a control box and temp sensor that shuts down the refrigerator heat source whenever the tube where the heat source is overheats, before it can trigger damage to the system.

Unlike the Norcold recall box it shuts off slightly above the highest acceptable "normal" temperature and auto-resets. The Norcold recall box hard trips hundreds of degrees above the highest "normal" temperature, and does not prevent high temps due to out of level that cause tubing corrosion. I have had the ARP control for years and the only time it operates is when I park out of level in a parking lot and forget to shut off the refrigerator.

No overheat, no overpressure in the tubing that triggers the coolant rupture. No overheat, no problem where the tubing corrodes from the inside causing the tubing to weaken and more easily rupture.

https://www.arprv.com

The ARP system is the way to go in my opinion as well. Just left on a 10 month trip and installed it just before I left.


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Old 11-09-2016, 08:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieRv View Post

Anyone using a fire suppression system? I have a Norcold Fridge and have seen a company selling a system along with their fridge products which got me concerned and thinking.

This system looks interesting for small tight areas which would be ideal behind the fridge. BlazeCut
Here is my opinion on Fire Suppression for various areas of your RV.

First off after reviewing the BlazeCut System versus the Halon SS-30 system sold by Fire Fight Products, there is one blaring significant difference. That difference is the temperature required to activate the Halon SS-30 is 165F whereas the temperature trigger for the Blaze-Cut is set at 248F. My opinion is that early detection is critical in that area of the rear fridge compartment due to the “chimney flue” effect.

BTW, the chemical used in the BlazeCut (HFC-227ea or HFC-236fa) is the new replacement for Halon 1211 which is still used in all of the SS-30 units. Halon 1211 is no longer made in the US as of January 1 1994 but there are significant supplies that are still being used up or recycled plus I think it is still obtainable from off-shore.

When I had my NotSoCold 1200 I put a SS-30 Halon unit into the rear compartment back in 2010 and it stood vertical near the electric heaters and above the LPG heater. See photos. Luckily it was never used prior to removing the POC NotSoCold 1200 in 2012 and installing the Samsung RF-197 residential fridge.

However I will point out that there have been RV owners that had rear fridge fires where their Halon SS-30 never deployed due to the location of the SS-30 or the origin of the fire and the chimney flue effect. See photos below.


The only way to totally eliminate ALL chances of having a fire at the rear of your Norcold 1200 is to remove it completely as many people have done including me. For those that refuse to believe that a fire may happen to their fridge and want to keep using it, I HIGHLY recommend they install the ARPrv unit. The stupid Norcold 1200 recall device has been nothing but problems and has given owners tons of grief from false tripping for no reason whatsoever. Installing a Halon system in the rear of the fridge in my opinion is purely a "feel good" solution due to the complicated issues of where exactly will the breach and fire start and where the sensors are located to activate the Halon unit.

Once my Samsung RF-197 was installed I relocated my Halon SS-30 to my Xantrex/Trace Inverter compartment. I also purchased another Halon SS-30 from an owner who had it but never installed before deciding to get rid of the fridge and install a residential fridge. Paid $50 for it and it now sits inside my Aqua-Hot compartment.

Back in 2010 I also installed a SS-400-R4 Foam system in my diesel engine compartment. See photos. AFFF foam systems are great for large open air areas of your RV such as the engine and generator compartments.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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