Fleetwood 2002 Revolution Brakes

[Dave Ax]

I just purchased this unit, you definitely need to put a ton of peddle into the brakes. Anyone know if brakes on a unit like this are front brake dependent more than rear? Is it similar to older trucks where front brakes wear 2x the rears? I have a little trip coming up and was thinking of at least changing fronts out. I haven't looked close yet. Thanks.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Dave Ax

I just purchased this unit, you definitely need to put a ton of peddle into the brakes. Anyone know if brakes on a unit like this are front brake dependent more than rear? Is it similar to older trucks where front brakes wear 2x the rears? I have a little trip coming up and was thinking of at least changing fronts out. I haven't looked close yet. Thanks.

Well Dave Ax,
You don't say what kind of mileage is on this coach so, it's kind of hard to accurately answer. That coach is a diesel coach, correct? The one I just looked at on Youtube was/is an '02 Fleetwood Revolution and it sports a 400HP 8.3L Cummins. If your coach has the same engine, it's more than likely equipped with an actual *compression brake*, correct? If so, depending on just how many miles and how that coach has been driven by previous owners, if it has been driven and braked CORRECTLY, you should have plenty of brake material left.

There's lots of speculation here due to lack of info. As for you needing to stomp on those brakes, there's a few reasons for this. Air pressure application may be off some. While about 99.99999% of these coaches do have *automatic* slack adjusters from the factory and those slack adjusters are for the most part pretty bullet proof, your brakes may be out of adjustment which also leads to a hard pedal.

We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP and Allison MH3000 6-spd trans and it's equipped with an EXHAUST brake which while is somewhat affective, is no where near as affective as a true compression brake. And even with that exhaust brake, we now have over 116,000 miles and our brakes are barely 1/2 worn. I truly expect to go way beyond 200,000 miles on these brakes before needing replacement.

So, this is why I ask for more info. You may have plenty of brake material left and therefore no need for replacement. You may ONLY need adjustment even though they should be self-adjusting. But on occasion, those slack adjusters don't quite do their job.
Scott

[SafariBen]

Air brakes? disc or drum? google says ABS air drum, but you tell me. Air brakes should be good for life of most RVs, unless abused, or rusted. Drums are easy to check the lining thickness. The linkage angle is very important to be sure the slack adjusters are working, and you won't lose brakes. If the slack adjusters are all working, there is no adjustment needed. The pedal pressure is created by the pedal to give feedback, the valve itself could be sticking, or check for easy movement, like carpet or corrosion blocking pedal movement. If it still feels like too much pressure is needed for brake application, I'd replace the valve, or find a spec to check it.
If you're not familiar with air brakes, please find the info that truckers are required to know, and how that applies to your coach. You don't need to know the function of all the components, but understanding how the air pressure works, and how the slack adjusters are supposed to work, and what the linkage looks like if they're not working, is critical to safety.

[Skip426]

Glazed lining or rusted shoes can increase braking effort .

Any idea when the coach was last used for a long trip ?

Chassis info would help ? Spartan or Freightliner ?

An inspection of the auto slack adjusters and the S cam shafts for proper operation is in order.
If someone hasn't been properly lubing the brake components , they could be badly rusted and binding .

[hypoxia]

Originally Posted by Skip426

An inspection of the auto slack adjusters and the S cam shafts for proper operation is in order. If someone hasn't been properly lubing the brake components , they could be badly rusted and binding .

I assume it's an 8.3 ISC 350HP with Meritor "P" Series Cam Brakes, maintenance manual MM-0440 (I had a 2003 Revolution).

The PacBrake mounted after the turbocharger needs to be checked, the butterfly may be seized and/or needs lubricated. That will reduce the usage of the service brakes.

The drum brake S cam and slack adjusters probably need lubed. It's an easy job other than removing the tires and drums.

https://pacbrake.com/exhaust-brakes.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/download...do=file&id=487

[Maule180]

Originally Posted by Dave Ax

I just purchased this unit, you definitely need to put a ton of peddle into the brakes. Anyone know if brakes on a unit like this are front brake dependent more than rear? Is it similar to older trucks where front brakes wear 2x the rears? I have a little trip coming up and was thinking of at least changing fronts out. I haven't looked close yet. Thanks.

Look close then come back. We all have interest as to what you find out but without the info its like asking How much is a duck?
When I bought my 2002 Itasca Winnebago W22 chassis I did a recall search and fount the brakes had a recall due to the Bosch calipers sticking and wearing out the brake pads pematurely. I checked by phone as well as online to verify my VIN had the recall taken care of and it has. Stops very quickly with lots of pad left front and rear. I would say the majority of stopping power is with the rear if they are not equal.. Please don't hesitate to let us know.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Here are the chassis specs direct from Freightliner Custom Chassis. Yeap, air drum w/ABS.


These should be excellent brakes, sized generously for the chassis GVWR and with full air-power assist. Ought to be good for well over 150k miles, especially if the former owner used the exhaust brake much.
My conclusion is you have something wrong, e.g. the glazed drums/shows that someone already mentioned or some mechanical problem with the brake itself. Maybe even only one pair working (front or rear). I think it's time to head to a pro air brake shop.


I know in my '04 Tradition/Freightliner if I hit the brakes hard it was a very quick stop. And I never felt like I was pushing hard on the pedal. Even when I had a leaky brake treadle valve, the coach still stopped almost on a dime!

[wolfe10]

Yup, we need more information to help:


What is air pressure from the dash gauges?


What engine and what engine brake (exhaust brake or engine compression brake)? Are you using the engine brake when coming to a stop/controlling speed of descent on long grades?

[twinboat]

Rear brakes do the lions share of stopping on diesel pushers and most trucks.
That's why the rear brakes are twice the size.