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Old 06-28-2022, 07:00 PM   #1
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Unhappy Fleetwood Bounder 2013 just dies when it wants to

So we have taken this thing to several people to figure out what is causing our Fleetwood to die. No one can figure it out. Gas isn't an issue, throttle body was replaced, batteries were replace, ignition was tested and found to be good, fuses were replace. No warning just dies. Whether you'r driving or at a stop light. No dash board lights .... nothing. No codes pop up when it dies. Turn the ignition to off position, wait a couple of minutes and it will start right back up like nothing happened. until that is, it decides to die yet again. Been going down the highway when it. decides to die. Talk about an adventure and instant stress. In town turning a corner or at a stop light it will die. Now mind you this isn't an every time occurrence. Just when it feels like it it will die. Anyone have any ideas? We have no mechanics in our area that will work on a Class A motorhome with a ford v10 engine. Getting ready for a road trip and guess what. It died again. UGHHHHH
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:19 PM   #2
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Idea #1: Sometimes the fuel pump doesn't make it all the way to the bottom of the tank during factory installation, gets hung up on the assembly. So it's sitting too high in the tank and if you tend to drain your tank before fueling up, that could be a rare but real issue.
Idea #2: Fuel pump is intermittent. Cut the fuel supply to the engine and install an external fuel pump inline to test. Costs ~$150 but it's a good test.
Idea #3: Assuming you've had a few mechanics look at things for you, and they didn't find anything, be sure to check that your wiring and any and all connectors going to the fuel pump making sure everything is okay. Vibration while on the road can easily cause an intermittent issue with a poor connection.
Idea #4: Often overlooked is the fuel safety cutoff that many vehicles have that in the event of a crash, the switch shuts off fuel. Check that, clean it up, check the wiring, measure the contact resistance. Since we're in an era of reduced regulations, your rig might not have one, so best to check your chassis User's Guide.
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Old 06-28-2022, 07:39 PM   #3
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From what you describe, I really don't think you have a fuel related problem. Fuel problems usually report themselves slowly, where as electrical problems are just off instantly.
If you would like to try and find the problem yourself, buy a bottle of https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-Laborato...6466414&sr=8-5 DeoxIT and unplug all the engine electrical connectors that you can find and apply a dap to all connections including the engine computer.

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Old 06-28-2022, 09:54 PM   #4
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You need to add fuel pressure gauge to your dash.. I used GLOWSHIFT.COM and added a fuel pressure gauge in 15mins.. but took me 2 days on deciding where to put it.. basic hand tools.. no modifications.. do that first.. next if you have battery disconnect switches by the door.. sometimes called salesman switches.. then one that controls the chassis is going bad.. it's always good to monitor fuel pressure full time with dedicated gauge..
Now mine did this.. but is gm chassis and big well know heavy truck and rv shop called me.. told me.. they have their best guys look at it.. no codes.. and said they had well over 100 yrs experience.. could not find why.. THE GREAT MEMBERS HERE.. HELPED ME FIND IT.. by reading old posts.. SO THANK YOU ALL AND YOUR FAMILIES..
So look at chassis disconnect selenoid.. have someone operate switch.. you put hands on them.. and label them.. if you have the black box style.. you can rebuild them or just replace.. make sure you use your cell phone with camera and flash and record all wires 1st.. then label them.. ofcouse use all safety precautions.. that means.. remove negative to all batteries.. coach and chassis batteries and no shore or gen.. no solar ..and you test.. for no voltage..
It's tight in there and working in there if any voltage.. you will short something out or cause a fire.. my old selenoid was just corroded inside and needed a little cleaning.. and was just bad enough to jump in and out.. which cuts power to computer or something like that.. I never tested which one it was. Just like ignition was cut off.. now that was mine.. and if you exhausted everything else.. maybe look at them.. but don't just jump to them.. get a gauge on it..
At GLOWSHIFT.COM they have gauge and the adapter you will need.. I went and wrote down their part numbers and orded from favorite online store.. many a/p stores have them in stock. There are many good companies that make them.. so get gauge and adapter .. where you like.. prices are all close..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 06-29-2022, 01:42 AM   #5
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Check the main fuse box. My dads RV had same problem. Turned out the socket the computer plugged into was flaky. He had to wedge a piece of cardboard against side of computer to force good connection. Final fix required a new fuse box.

The mechanic found it by wiggling the computer in all directions. Once found the cardboard trick got him on the road.
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Old 06-29-2022, 02:21 AM   #6
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I would tend to agree that this isn't a fuel related issue. Much more likely to be a electrical problem. It might only be a fuel problem because the chassis electrical shuts down so the fuel pump doesn't run.
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Old 06-29-2022, 03:40 AM   #7
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Check the ignition switch connector at the steering column.
Mine was loose on my 2006 f53 few years back caused related issues.
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Old 06-30-2022, 11:35 AM   #8
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Guys, thanks for all the input! Hopefully one of these suggestions will work out. I will keep you updated.
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Old 06-30-2022, 02:12 PM   #9
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Replace the cam and or crankshaft sensor, cheap and easy to do. Could also be a fuel pump relay issue, I had a similar issue on a Ford truck turned out to be the fuel pump relay, problem was the fuel pump relay for some Ford's were soldered onto the back of the fuse panel circuit board, had to find the correct wires and bypass the onboard relay and wire in a relay I bought online. There are some videos showing how to do it. Here is one


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Old 06-30-2022, 03:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWoodBoss View Post
Replace the cam and or crankshaft sensor, cheap and easy to do. Could also be a fuel pump relay issue, I had a similar issue on a Ford truck turned out to be the fuel pump relay, problem was the fuel pump relay for some Ford's were soldered onto the back of the fuse panel circuit board, had to find the correct wires and bypass the onboard relay and wire in a relay I bought online. There are some videos showing how to do it. Here is one




I would agree about the possibility of Crank Position Sensor. I had similar symptoms on my 7.3 diesel and the v10 does have a CPS.
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Old 06-30-2022, 06:55 PM   #11
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Sounds like issue I had with vehicle. Multiple positive wires fed plug that feeds through firewall by I don't think MH has a plug exactly like that.
Many vehicles had issues with ignition switch as well. You say you loose all dash functions ? Your not getting speedo as it coasts. Or bunch of indicators lamps like if you shut key on and off.
Does it crank over immediately after by not fire.
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