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Old 02-05-2021, 09:14 PM   #1
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Flooring question

Looking to replace the carpet in my 2004 Georgia Boy Pursuit Motorhome. What works best laminate or Vinyl planks?
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Old 02-06-2021, 05:32 AM   #2
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I don’t know which is best - but we’re having ours replaced right now with laminate. Can’t wait to get it back (Thursday) to see how we like it.
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Old 02-06-2021, 05:53 AM   #3
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I'm going with a LVT 12x24 style tile look since most planks look like wood and there is enough wood finish in our RV. Its installation is the snap together edges and floating type. The top surface finish is textured and not a glossy finish to help prevent slips. The material is all waterproof and should prevent any issues if it gets wet.
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Old 02-06-2021, 06:47 AM   #4
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The guru for flooring is Ernie Ekberg.

https://groups.io/g/ErnieEkbergFlooring

Join his group and you can see pictures of coaches he has done and he is very forthcoming in answering any questions you have.

Per Ernie, glued down, engineered hardwood flooring is the way to go.

I replaced all of my carpeting with hand scraped engineered hardwood flooring. With the hand scraped, you can easily repair any nicks, etc. and it blends in. We glued the flooring down. One thing I learned in doing this is that because of the confined space, it is much easier to back butter each piece rather than spread the glue across the floor.
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:29 AM   #5
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We went with vinyl planks, DW likes it. Check out your local lumber liquidators for selections.
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veraken View Post
The guru for flooring is Ernie Ekberg.

https://groups.io/g/ErnieEkbergFlooring

Join his group and you can see pictures of coaches he has done and he is very forthcoming in answering any questions you have.

Per Ernie, glued down, engineered hardwood flooring is the way to go.

.
Yup..We have the March 15th slot to do our coach.
Going with the Hickory..sawblade marks and all....
We are undecided whether to replace the carpet in the bedroom or just go wood all the way...The carpet is additional insulation, heat/cold and sound abatement for the floor in the bedroom.....rear engine diesel, straight pipe with a small resonator..
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:05 AM   #7
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We pulled out all of the carpet and had planks put down in the entire coach except where there was already tile. Much easier to keep clean and the DW loves it.

Happy wife, happy life.

PS, the guy who installed it said he would never do another coach as long as he lives.
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Old 02-06-2021, 12:19 PM   #8
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RV Renovations and RV Service | Classic Coach Works recommended the luxury vinyl flooring so we went that route and couldn't be happier. It's really beautiful and easy to clean. We got rid of all the carpet except the strip on the drivers side slide out where it was necessary to keep it. There, we upgraded to a luxury grade carpet that has a lifetime guarentee not to fade. The thing that made the biggest difference for our coach was doing the stairwell entry area. It's a night and day difference from before. I'll post a few pics. SOrry they turn sideways on this forum only. They show up fine everywhere else.
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Old 02-07-2021, 09:42 AM   #9
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I went with the Coretec laminate floor planks. Totally waterproof. Chose the hickory look and it was fairly inexpensive. My son and I installed it over the course of 3 weekends. We are very pleased with how it turned out.
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I went with the Coretec laminate floor planks. Totally waterproof. Chose the hickory look and it was fairly inexpensive. My son and I installed it over the course of 3 weekends. We are very pleased with how it turned out.
Your floors really turned out nice!
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Old 02-07-2021, 10:23 AM   #11
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Vinyl is waterproof and more temperature stable than laminate, and you can glue it down if you like. If you choose laminate, buy a top quality grade so that it holds up better under the widely varying humidity and temperatures that RVs are exposed too. Should also resist scratching better. The better stuff starts around $3/sq-ft and since an RV is small it doesn't add a lot to the cost of the job.
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Old 02-07-2021, 11:22 AM   #12
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I used urethane glued down engineered wood. PITA to install but looks much nicer than the dated carpet and tile.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:16 AM   #13
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Been considering changing the carpet for a while. How are people trimming flooring around the curved driver and passenger dash area and down around steps in the well? Normally in a house it's hidden by molding. But ours is all complex curved. Any pics would be appreciated
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Old 02-08-2021, 11:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Been considering changing the carpet for a while. How are people trimming flooring around the curved driver and passenger dash area and down around steps in the well? Normally in a house it's hidden by molding. But ours is all complex curved. Any pics would be appreciated
I used the "Smartcore Naturals" product from Lowes, completely waterproof and seems to be WAY more durable than the hand-scraped product (with an MDF core) used in my house - I'll never go with an MDF core again. Not waterproof AT ALL.

For dealing with the borders and complex shapes.... Under the dash or at cabinets, I would flip the last piece around backwards (so the "good" end that will mate with the existing floor is against the obstruction) and mark the piece where it overlaps the existing floor. This will result in the "blank" end landing right at the wall / obstruction.

Now if that wall is curved, it gets a bit trickier. You would need to move the new piece over to a flat section of the same length to get the length measurement... But then for the curve, depending on how precise you wanted to make it, you would need to eyeball the shape onto the piece and cut with a dremel or a jigsaw. Aim for the cuts to be LONG so you can shape it back a little at a time - you'll get the hang of it pretty fast.

For things where there can be an overlap - heater vents, stepwell areas - just build the wood over the gap and use a trim router bit that has the bearing below to follow the contour of the underside hole. FOR HEATERS - I found that my original holes were NOT square or positioned properly, so I ended up using the router bit and marking how I wanted them (smaller than the existing hole) to appear. A bit more tricky to achieve, but then the heating covers will hide small imperfections in the cuts.
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