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goombaloon · 03-24-2014, 07:26 PM

We have a 2000 mile round trip drive planned in a few days and I just remembered that I haven't changed the engine and generator oil in over a year (we've drove about 4200 miles last year). I don't have time to get it into a place that can change the oil for me before we leave so I'm weighing the options of just waiting until after our trip or attempting to do the oil change myself.

It's a Ford Triton V10 chassis engine and an Onan 5500 generator engine. Doing the research, it seems reasonably straightforward to do the oil filter and oil change myself, but I wanted to check with some experts here for advice, confirmation, warnings, etc.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

charliej · 03-24-2014, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goombaloon

We have a 2000 mile round trip drive planned in a few days and I just remembered that I haven't changed the engine and generator oil in over a year (we've drove about 4200 miles last year). I don't have time to get it into a place that can change the oil for me before we leave so I'm weighing the options of just waiting until after our trip or attempting to do the oil change myself. It's a Ford Triton V10 chassis engine and an Onan 5500 generator engine. Doing the research, it seems reasonably straightforward to do the oil filter and oil change myself, but I wanted to check with some experts here for advice, confirmation, warnings, etc. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Easier than doing a car, at least on my 1999 V10. I set the catch pan on the cross member under the oil plug.

charliej · 03-24-2014, 07:42 PM

Oh, I forgot the only hard part was pouring the new oil in with the little opening at the front of the coach. I used a dixie cup and a funnel. Others have used a pump or hose on the end of a funnel. You my have better access.

sparks1032 · 03-24-2014, 09:45 PM

Second the easy oil change as easy if you've done them before. Hard part is getting the oil in the pan. First time it was windy and the wind blew it all over the chassis and driveway. I cut a gallon windshield container to help guide it in. Might be a good idea to use or buy a transfer pump from Harbor Freight or Wally word it makes putting the oil in easier.

The generator is also pretty easy but similar issues with the wind and all but make sure you UNDER fill as first time book was wrong with amount.

goombaloon · 03-25-2014, 09:49 PM

Thanks for the info and advice. I did it myself and it was pretty simple. As you indicated, I used the position of the cross member to hold the collection pan. On our Georgetown, the oil fill cap is way near the top of the engine compartment. It was a huge pain pouring the oil in there, and I have oil that dripped all over the engine compartment to prove it.

The generator was also pretty simple, but yep, the wind blew it around while draining, making it difficult to keep it in the pan and off my driveway.

All in all, though, not too bad.

Thanks again!

scenic route · 03-26-2014, 01:57 PM

For those that change their own gasser's oil, I've found that the Fumoto valve with the 'N' suffix (Nipple) stops all the mess when the wind kicks up. The nipple allows you to slip a 3/8ths inch ID hose onto it and the other ends goes into your container.

http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f106n-valve.html

Access to the oil fill is tight on our coach as well...I measured the ID of the oil filler tube and found a stubby funnel at Wal-Mart that fit snuggly into the tube so I don't have to hold it in place. Now I can fill the engine (8.1) with the Mobil 1, five quart container. Works great. The oil filter is removed with a heavy duty quart size freezer bag once I loosen the filter...no mess there either.

sparks1032 · 03-27-2014, 06:42 AM

Was the valve worth $30 and does it have the safety clip on it?

scenic route · 03-27-2014, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparks1032

Was the valve worth $30 and does it have the safety clip on it?

I think the Fumoto is worth it's cost. I've ruined so many shirts with oil splatter, I couldn't count 'em. Really, the lack of mess is worth every penny. If I don't make a mess, I don't have to clean it up. The valve is very well made... it really needs no safety clip because of the indention for the lever in the shutoff position - never a drop of leakage. Also, I was concerned about the threads of the valve extending into the oil pan too far causing oil to pool in the pan. I drained the oil until it was barely dripping...removed the valve, no pooling.

I always change the oil when the engine is hot. The Fumoto with an attached hose allows the oil to be changed without burning yourself. Draining is a little slower with the valve installed, but that just gives me time to do a complete chassis lube while the oil drains. No affiliation with Fumoto. BTW, I installed one on the Jeep as well.

randyw · 04-03-2014, 09:38 PM

Does anyone know the oil plug size on an Onan 7.5kw genset? The options on the oil change valve are 1/4" and 3/8".

mojoracing · 04-03-2014, 09:55 PM

I second the fumoto valve. Just changed mine for the first time and Im glad I had the fumoto valve ready to install so I don't have to go through that mess a few months from now. It is very well made and is going to be the easiest oil change ever on the next one. I bought the transfer pump to put the oil in and it wasn't needed. All it did was create a big mess to clean the pump when I was done. I fit the 5 quart mobil one up in there and with a funnel it was no problem. The onan 5500 is super easy to change too. Filter is right in front and has a petcock already installed to drain oil. I am however going to rig up a drain line that I can install into the existing tubing to cut down on the wind blowing it all over. Im going to get a brass connector, the kind that is barbed on both ends and can temporarily connect another length of hose to the existing one so it will reach the catch container. Problem solved. My oman 5500 holds 2 quarts.

Akcontender · 04-04-2014, 12:50 AM

On my 1999 Georgetown with a Triton V-10 when I change or add oil I remove the doghouse cover off the engine and pull the cap open on top of the engine and dump the oil in. Don't try to pour it down the dipstick tube as it is really hard to reach it without making a mess.