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Old 10-24-2021, 05:56 PM   #1
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Freedom 20 Inverter Charger issue

I have a 95 Monaco Dynasty with a Freedom 2000w Inverter that I assume is the cause of my issues. But before I spend a bunch of $$$ on a new Magnum MS2000-20BL-U, I want to see if it could possibly be something else that could cause this.



I'm hooked up to shore power 24/7. In the past when I lost shore power my inverter would kick on so I could at least have lights and 120v outlets. Lately we have lost shore power and I lose everything. The main control panel shows nothing. No battery power, no levels on grey/black water, and the inverter panel shows nothing with the power switch on. This used to work and the power switch on the unit itself is turned on. But when I do have shore/generator power everything seems normal and it still shows that it's charging my batteries. My batteries are only 4 months old. The other day I cut power and put a voltage meter on my D4 Batteries and it showed above 12v. When I kick shore power back on the batteries show around 13.5v. So it seems everything is good there. When I crank on generator it's charging the batteries as well. So it seems to me that when I have no Shore/Generator power that the inverter is not converting the DC to 120v. The inverter is the original so it's got some age. So my questions are:



-Is there anything I should check or test to see if it's something else possibly?



-And would the MS2000-20BL-U be an easy swap without having to change a bunch of wiring? I saw something about the 2800w model that people had to change out a bunch of wires.



Thank you guys
RC
1995 Monaco Dynasty 40'
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Old 10-24-2021, 06:56 PM   #2
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When you test your coach batteries, what specific voltage are they at? 12.0 is dead. 12.8 is fully charged. Does your inverter/charger have a fuse or circuit breaker on it? If possible, test battery voltage directly at the inverter when not charging. You should have battery power there.
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Old 10-25-2021, 01:41 AM   #3
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Thanks Harry. I'll kill power and test those batteries again tomorrow after work and get true reading. I thought if it's above 12V it's fine. I think you might be right about the batteries being dead. I have a hard time believing they would be dead since I just bought them last April. But when I see what's going on when I lose power it makes sense. Even with shore power on I'm now noticing when I turn some lights off the others get brighter and then I turn on again and they dim for a bit. Just seems to make sense it's the batteries. I can't imagine new batteries would die this quick which makes me wonder what could be killing the batteries. Anyways, I'll report back.


RC
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Old 10-25-2021, 07:38 AM   #4
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Bet it is the transfer switch inside the inverter/charger.
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:35 AM   #5
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Could this be a bad solenoid for the 12v cutoff / aka salesman switch?

Unless you allowed your batteries to drain to empty and left then that way they shouldn't be failing at this point.
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Old 10-25-2021, 07:34 PM   #6
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Tested Batteries

I cut the power to the coach and when I tested the batteries they showed 13.17v. So either transfer switch or the inverter I'm guessing. I live in Oregon and it's gonna rain for the next week or so. If I can get a break in the weather and take everything outa storage to get to the Freedom 20 inverter and start testing from there. I'm a newbie at most of this so I'm not exactly sure where to test at the Inverter. I hope the pic i posted at the bottom shows up (back of the inverter). Also is the transfer switch built into the inverter box or is that another thing I need to find?


Thank You guys
RC


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Old 10-26-2021, 07:14 AM   #7
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I have the same Freedom 20 inverter in my rig. Not sure if you have the manual, but here's a few pages that might be of interest.

There is a breaker on the front of the unit that can be reset, in addition there should be a fuse somewhere on the positive cable, it says within 18" of the battery.
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Old 10-26-2021, 09:55 AM   #8
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Had a similar issue, after doing all the normal checks it turned out to be the temperature sensor for the inverter.
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:04 AM   #9
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Freedom 2000w Inverter is an oldie. There have been many versions with different designs for guts over the years. Provide exact model for better advice.
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:19 AM   #10
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Here's a manual dated 3/99 so older than the info RoadTrip posted .

I do remember another member posting about the internal fuse being blown .
I'll see if that post will come up with a search.
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File Type: pdf Freedom series 1.pdf (2.91 MB, 5 views)
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:40 AM   #11
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My 1995 Freedom 25 manual tells me to turn the on/off switch on the inverter itself to Off if using a remote control, which you are trying to use. (my manual covers your inverter also)

So, unplug the cable to the remote and see if the outlets power up. (because you have the inverter switch set to on.)

To try to power the remote control, turn off the power switch on the inverter and plug the Remote cable back into the Remote Panel. Maybe the panel will then power up. (loose cable connection therefore no power to the remote?)

If no luck, and having done the previous recommendations of this thread, then maybe an inverter change is needed.
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Here's a manual dated 3/99 so older than the info RoadTrip posted .

I do remember another member posting about the internal fuse being blown .
I'll see if that post will come up with a search.
Sorry, didn't realize my rig info wasn't shown. My unit is a '97, so a bit older than yours.
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Old 10-26-2021, 07:17 PM   #13
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My two cents.

I'll assume your remote is completely dead. If you have a manual you can turn your inverter on from the front of the unit itself. I would try this first just to see of the inverter is active. If it turns on from there, you might just need a new remote. Mine bit the dust a while back. Everything was black, but I could feel heat from the remote itself. Indicating a short inside the unit. Hit Amazon and all is well again. Good luck.
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Old 10-27-2021, 08:44 AM   #14
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The older black case Freedom series inverters have a pair of glass fuses mounted to the back side of the circuit board inside the case (case must be opened to access them). When these fail (often due to age / vibration) it can result in symptoms like you describe depending if one or both are blown.
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